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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy

Old 12-16-2015, 09:25 AM
  #10276  
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As I go through my car a little deeper I have also noticed that if you are using rubber O rings inside the drive cups for the center drive shaft to keep it from bouncing around, it may cause the pinion gears to push deeper inside the front and rear transmission. With an Oring on each side of my center drive shafts they are very tight and I suspect this may be causing tighter alignment overall.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:12 PM
  #10277  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Are there any alternatives to the stock hinge pins? I've bent 2 with fairly light hits on the track. They seem really soft.
I am 99% sure Lunsford made some and I just looked at the website to link them and they are not on anymore. I think they were pretty pricey though around $80-$90 for a set. Maybe send him an email.


Has anybody tried M3x20 titanium screws in the hingepin / Arm carriers ? I just replaced them and changing some stuff on my setup tonight and the screws are bent and I didn't even have any crashes ??
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:12 PM
  #10278  
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I don't suggest using Titanium in the hinge pin carriers. These are designed to bend on impact and save the car from DNF. They are cheap and easy to replace when bent. Titanium is a bit expensive and I have a feeling it may cause something else to break or perhaps create a catastrophic failure instead of just a bent screw and still finishing the race.

I agree they do end up bent fairly often in my experience so far. It seems fairly easy to do...
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:39 PM
  #10279  
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Originally Posted by Jason84
I am 99% sure Lunsford made some and I just looked at the website to link them and they are not on anymore. I think they were pretty pricey though around $80-$90 for a set. Maybe send him an email.


Has anybody tried M3x20 titanium screws in the hingepin / Arm carriers ? I just replaced them and changing some stuff on my setup tonight and the screws are bent and I didn't even have any crashes ??
I built my kit with ti screws there and the front ones were bent after the first race day. All 4 of them. I replaced them with protek high strength screws and haven't bent one yet.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:45 AM
  #10280  
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What does everyone like these days for diff O rings ? Stock or aftermarket? Planning to rebuild soon.
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:18 AM
  #10281  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
What does everyone like these days for diff O rings ? Stock or aftermarket? Planning to rebuild soon.
I've been running the ones that came with car for over 1 year now. Never had a reason to change them. They don't leak.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:45 AM
  #10282  
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I've been using the Traxxas blue x-rings since I got the car. Very smooth and no leaks.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:49 PM
  #10283  
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Over the Holiday break , I am going to switch my layout over to saddle packs on a stretched chassis to run on a med sized indoor clay track. It gets grippy , but the other saddle pack cars seem to do really well so I want to see how it works for me . Any others out there ? Insights ?
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:44 PM
  #10284  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I built my kit with ti screws there and the front ones were bent after the first race day. All 4 of them. I replaced them with protek high strength screws and haven't bent one yet.
Ive given up on ti screws, I also use the protek screws and bend one each time at track for hours. Never bending one would be a dream of mine to never hit even a pipe.
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Old 12-17-2015, 05:09 PM
  #10285  
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For anyone who is running the Avid or Schelle aluminum chassis, this is a pretty good setup!

The added chassis weight needs stiffer dampening than most setups.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/hotbod...Track20150110/
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:08 PM
  #10286  
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Does anyone have trouble with front flipping under hard braking and high traction. I have to adjust my braking style and transmitter . I wish there was a way to adjust brake bias front and rear. Any solutions or car adjustments
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Old 12-18-2015, 05:31 AM
  #10287  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
Does anyone have trouble with front flipping under hard braking and high traction. I have to adjust my braking style and transmitter . I wish there was a way to adjust brake bias front and rear. Any solutions or car adjustments
Try limiting your droop by putting spacers in the shocks. Maybe 4 to 6 mm depending on your ride height.
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Old 12-18-2015, 06:39 AM
  #10288  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
Does anyone have trouble with front flipping under hard braking and high traction. I have to adjust my braking style and transmitter . I wish there was a way to adjust brake bias front and rear. Any solutions or car adjustments
Reduce front kick up. Try 3 in FF and 1 in FR. That will reduce weight transfer under braking.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:40 AM
  #10289  
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I've got brakes? Hmmm I'll have to try em out
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:43 AM
  #10290  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Reduce front kick up. Try 3 in FF and 1 in FR. That will reduce weight transfer under braking.

that's it. I remember now changing to 3 and 2 because my 1 was so worn I put 2's in because new and did not think little more kick up would have that much effect. I now im thinking about it my mbx7r eco starting doing same thing (front wheelies) under hard braking and I just increased kick up because I noticed front diving so much. Learn something new everyday!!

what rear sway bar do you use? I run copper and copper front and rear and have like it so much, but car can always be better.

Fyi I have talk to an older retired pro driver about 12 caster and 5 steering and said would make car to lazy and easy to drive. said 5 steering and 10 caster would be perfect for most tracks.
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