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Old 10-17-2015, 11:28 PM   #10006
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I have noticed my rear wheel bearings die easily, I didnt get 2 full meet from them this time, standard plastic uprights, and 5.5 motor, dirt track.
Any one recomend alu uprights
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Old 10-18-2015, 02:45 AM   #10007
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Originally Posted by sealander View Post
is there a difference between the shelle +4 chassis and the red workshop +4 chassis?
2.5mm vs 3mm
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:54 AM   #10008
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
In my personal experience with savor servos I have found some of them don't have the same amount of travel as others, I would try a different servo and see if the problem goes away. I ended up changing servo brands because of the inconsistencies in there servos.
I have been having that problem also. The screws were not tight enough. Whenever i had a hard hit it would move, I would then grab the wheels and turn it and it would pop back into place. I counter sinked the holes on used flat head screws so that would not happen again.
I also counter sinked the top brace that connects to the front diff case.
I also thought it was the Savox servo i was running. I put in a Futaba and was having the same issue.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:07 AM   #10009
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WOW on the bearings, cause I just went thru a rebuild last week and mine still feel smooth. No gritty feel to them and thats even after running outdoors this past summer on a 1/8 track that was dusty and loose at times.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:24 AM   #10010
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Originally Posted by ColourGhost View Post
Hi.
Does anyone know why my D413 looses its ability to drive in a straight line, and i have to adjust my left/right steering every 3 minutes ? I found that the 3x18 screws in front holding the arm mount can easily bent, and that way make the car lose it's straight line, but my car does it a lot without those screws being bent. I also checked my servo to see if it jumps a few teeth. Im driving without a servo saver (don't remember if there even is a servo saver in the kit). Also i have a problem with the car not turning sharp enough. When i adjust endpoints, the servo (Savox SB2274), makes this buzzing sound when i reach 70%, and i would like to reach 80-85%. Does it help to install the #4 instead ?

Enjoy the day people
Sounds like something binding or over tightened. Remove rod to servo and see if all is smooth right to left. Or are you having this problem under full throttle going straight ? I'm at epa on mine 70% range. Your not going to get more. Buzz means stop + a little. Lol. #3 best for most steering, but little twitchy at high speeds and you can toe out a little for more corner steering. Those 3x20 screws bend all the time. It's to save other parts from breaking and you can finish a race. I replace them ASAP after a hard hit when run done. Read 1st page good info
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:33 AM   #10011
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Originally Posted by Dal View Post
I have noticed my rear wheel bearings die easily, I didnt get 2 full meet from them this time, standard plastic uprights, and 5.5 motor, dirt track.
Any one recomend alu uprights
I want aluminum rear hubs too. Exotek please help!
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Old 10-18-2015, 02:52 PM   #10012
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Originally Posted by Dal View Post
I have noticed my rear wheel bearings die easily, I didnt get 2 full meet from them this time, standard plastic uprights, and 5.5 motor, dirt track.
Any one recomend alu uprights
The bearings that came with the kit aren't that great, the Avid bearings with the yellow shields last much longer. But bearings in general are high maintenance (insert wife joke here)
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:23 AM   #10013
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
Sounds like something binding or over tightened. Remove rod to servo and see if all is smooth right to left. Or are you having this problem under full throttle going straight ? I'm at epa on mine 70% range. Your not going to get more. Buzz means stop + a little. Lol. #3 best for most steering, but little twitchy at high speeds and you can toe out a little for more corner steering. Those 3x20 screws bend all the time. It's to save other parts from breaking and you can finish a race. I replace them ASAP after a hard hit when run done. Read 1st page good info
Thanks a lot guys for all the feedback. My Club buddy also just bought the car, and he is having serious problems with the wheels going left and right. Mine isn't that bad, but it's enough to bother me.

Thanks again
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:28 AM   #10014
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Originally Posted by ColourGhost View Post
Thanks a lot guys for all the feedback. My Club buddy also just bought the car, and he is having serious problems with the wheels going left and right. Mine isn't that bad, but it's enough to bother me.

Thanks again
Mine was moving where the graphite piece connects to the plastic steering crank. I replaced the 2.5mm x 8mm button head screws. I counter sunk the graphite piece and put flat head screws there.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:04 AM   #10015
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Originally Posted by itsjusme View Post
Mine was moving where the graphite piece connects to the plastic steering crank. I replaced the 2.5mm x 8mm button head screws. I counter sunk the graphite piece and put flat head screws there.
Did you not use the tapered washers that go between the brace and the posts?
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:09 PM   #10016
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Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
You can't compare carpet to dirt in my opinion. Carpet has so much more traction and and you have to get rid of steering usually.
My D413 was awesome using Ty ROAR NATS Setup for indoor clay.

Recently we have gone to high bite Astroturf. I put Schumacher Mini Pins yellow compound all the way around and threw it on the track without changing from my trusty dirt setup. Overall it was decent but I know it could be better.

The thing that I have noticed is that my steering is really twitchy now, overly sensitive to input. I run a fast servo and have fast electronics (Sanwa M12) but is there any way to tame the responsiveness down just a little by modifying my setup and not correcting it through my radio settings?
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:33 PM   #10017
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
is there any way to tame the responsiveness down just a little by modifying my setup and not correcting it through my radio settings?
I generally cut off a row or two of outside pins and a row of inside pins. You can also install the less aggressive ackerman bars (#3?)
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:08 AM   #10018
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
Did you not use the tapered washers that go between the brace and the posts?
Not talking about the steering post, but yes they are in. I am talking about where the graphite piece the servo connects to. Those three screws that connect to the steering cranks. That what HB calls them.
When I was running onroad back in the day that is how we prevented the car from tweaking was to counter sink the the holes and use flat head screws.
That is what I did to this car.
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:19 AM   #10019
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Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
We got 3 D413's running TLR pistons with no issues
Considering getting me a HB D413. I noticed the exotek rack seems to be a near must have. Along with the HB alum shock caps (or AE caps).

Are folks still using the TLR pistons (in order to run 2 holes)??

I also hear the front inner hinge pins shear easily -- anyone make an aftermarket pin, or is there a solution?

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:38 AM   #10020
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The steering rack is not a "must have", but the shock caps really are. I went a while with the stock caps , no problems. Once one pops off though , its never right again. A spare spur gear and lots of 3x20mm screws are good to have.

The kit comes with 4 blank pistons you can drill yourself fwiw.

The pins on my car have been bullet proof . I have taken many a nail and piece of pipe hard in the front arms on a outdoor 1/8 track running a 5.5 and have not broken or bent a pin (or arm).

Use the rack money to buy a spare center diff and keep it handy to make quick set up changes .
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