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Old 10-16-2015, 08:19 AM   #9991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertsch View Post
Thanks for the setup!

Can anybody please explain me, why David is choosing Ackermann #5 with the stock chassis on med grip carpet?
I would understand it with +4mm or +6mm chassis, cause #5 is less aggressive.
I really donīt get it, with #5 is also off power steering not so good like with #4 or #3 Ackermann.

Or m I totally wrong?

Iīve tested Ackermann #3,#4 & #5 the last view months on a med/large 1:10 clay, low grip and dusty outdoor track
with tight infield sections. Also with stock chassis and Schelle carbon +4mm.
For me personally is Schelle +4mm and Ackermann #4 the best choice on my track.


Thanks a lot!
cheers
Can u post ur setup for the clay track?
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #9992
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Hello guys,

first of all, thanks a lot, much appreciate your help!
MY 2 Problems are a twitchy rear and less off power steering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
Alot of it is just personal feel. I run the #5's in all conditions as it helps smooth out the steering for me. I even have my servo speed in my radio turned down some as well due to the high speed servo.
I am sure if your servo isn't super fast, the #4's would be perfectly fine, but for me the #4's are too twitchy, even in low-medium traction surfaces.
Of course, alot is personal feel.
My Servo is a SAVÖX SC-1258TG 0.08sec/166.6oz

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Originally Posted by Pintopint View Post
Same here, i use #5 every time with +4mm Redworkshop chassis. Now i use #6, 15°caster block and the new +6mm chassis it's a lot more smooth and predictable.
Schelle Carbon +4mm & 10 Exo caster block
I think with #6 and 15 caster block is much too less steering for me


Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Can u post ur setup for the clay track?
Will try, hope it works with the pic upload

my Track












my Setup




thanks again!
cheers
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Last edited by Gertsch; 10-16-2015 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:02 AM   #9993
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Sorry if this a 'Rookie' question but it does involve the D413. Newbie here but have built a few kits.

Just finished the D413 build and having one issue. When I pull the throttle all good but when I turn all the way to the left or right, the wheels/hexes stop/rub. I checked everything (castors inside and outside, CVs, pins, etc) and it all seems good ('L' and 'R' are correct). Is it possible that my servo/link is allowing the steering to go too far to the left or right? I have a savox 1258 servo, the HB aluminum horn and the stock servo link. I have a video.

Thanks
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:30 PM   #9994
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Originally Posted by rcnewbie418 View Post
Sorry if this a 'Rookie' question but it does involve the D413. Newbie here but have built a few kits.

Just finished the D413 build and having one issue. When I pull the throttle all good but when I turn all the way to the left or right, the wheels/hexes stop/rub. I checked everything (castors inside and outside, CVs, pins, etc) and it all seems good ('L' and 'R' are correct). Is it possible that my servo/link is allowing the steering to go too far to the left or right? I have a savox 1258 servo, the HB aluminum horn and the stock servo link. I have a video.

Thanks
hmmm, steering rod end A and B wrong side. The arch is to be facing to rear of car. My best guess
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:44 PM   #9995
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Anyone using the MIP D413 "Rollers" Shiny Drive System?
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Old 10-17-2015, 07:47 AM   #9996
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Originally Posted by nitro2be View Post
hmmm, steering rod end A and B wrong side. The arch is to be facing to rear of car. My best guess
Nitro2be you're the man. You were close. I had the A and B rods correct but the mm on the turnbuckles were to long. The manual calls for 12.5mm. I had them 15mm each. That 5mm total made a huge difference. I backed them both down to 12.5mm and it works great. When I pull throttle and go all the way to the right or left. The hexes/wheels spin freely. Thx dude
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:29 AM   #9997
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Originally Posted by rcnewbie418 View Post
Nitro2be you're the man. You were close. I had the A and B rods correct but the mm on the turnbuckles were to long. The manual calls for 12.5mm. I had them 15mm each. That 5mm total made a huge difference. I backed them both down to 12.5mm and it works great. When I pull throttle and go all the way to the right or left. The hexes/wheels spin freely. Thx dude
your welcome, I've had this car since December 2014 and drive it almost every week. I've gotten to know this car pretty good and is the best car I've ever owned. I've had just about every brand except tekno. That's next. Enjoy

Also Don't forget to set end point adjustment on radio. EPA. Longer turn buckles on steering rods will give toe in on front . You want a little short to give small amount of toe out. Stock should be almost perfect

Last edited by nitro2be; 10-17-2015 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:16 AM   #9998
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Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
Alot of it is just personal feel. I run the #5's in all conditions as it helps smooth out the steering for me. I even have my servo speed in my radio turned down some as well due to the high speed servo.
I am sure if your servo isn't super fast, the #4's would be perfectly fine, but for me the #4's are too twitchy, even in low-medium traction surfaces.
I agree with personal feel. I use #3 , tried #4 and for me I like the little extra out of a #3. It let's me cut a corner real sharp if needed to make a pass in switch back sections and yes its more twitchy but CRAZY fun to drive.
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:06 AM   #9999
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer View Post
Anyone using the MIP D413 "Rollers" Shiny Drive System?
No, I'm waiting to win the lottery.
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:10 AM   #10000
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No, I'm waiting to win the lottery.
I agree. I looked into the D413 to add to my collection. Way out of my price range. I got as far as the price.
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:22 AM   #10001
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
No, I'm waiting to win the lottery.
Same here, I still have original out drives,axles, and drive shafts after 10 months , 2 to 3 times a month , and 6 packs each time. Almost ready to replace the stock ones with stock parts
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Old 10-17-2015, 02:03 PM   #10002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertsch View Post
Thanks for the setup!

Can anybody please explain me, why David is choosing Ackermann #5 with the stock chassis on med grip carpet?
I would understand it with +4mm or +6mm chassis, cause #5 is less aggressive.
I really donīt get it, with #5 is also off power steering not so good like with #4 or #3 Ackermann.

Or m I totally wrong?

Iīve tested Ackermann #3,#4 & #5 the last view months on a med/large 1:10 clay, low grip and dusty outdoor track
with tight infield sections. Also with stock chassis and Schelle carbon +4mm.
For me personally is Schelle +4mm and Ackermann #4 the best choice on my track.


Thanks a lot!
cheers
You can't compare carpet to dirt in my opinion. Carpet has so much more traction and and you have to get rid of steering usually.
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:29 PM   #10003
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is there a difference between the shelle +4 chassis and the red workshop +4 chassis?
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:54 PM   #10004
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Hi.
Does anyone know why my D413 looses itīs ability to drive in a straight line, and i have to adjust my left/right steering every 3 minutes ? I found that the 3x18 screws in front holding the arm mount can easily bent, and that way make the car lose it's straight line, but my car does it a lot without those screws being bent. I also checked my servo to see if it jumps a few teeth. Iīm driving without a servo saver (don't remember if there even is a servo saver in the kit). Also i have a problem with the car not turning sharp enough. When i adjust endpoints, the servo (Savox SB2274), makes this buzzing sound when i reach 70%, and i would like to reach 80-85%. Does it help to install the #4 instead ?

Enjoy the day people
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Old 10-17-2015, 11:15 PM   #10005
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Originally Posted by ColourGhost View Post
Hi.
Does anyone know why my D413 looses itīs ability to drive in a straight line, and i have to adjust my left/right steering every 3 minutes ? I found that the 3x18 screws in front holding the arm mount can easily bent, and that way make the car lose it's straight line, but my car does it a lot without those screws being bent. I also checked my servo to see if it jumps a few teeth. Iīm driving without a servo saver (don't remember if there even is a servo saver in the kit). Also i have a problem with the car not turning sharp enough. When i adjust endpoints, the servo (Savox SB2274), makes this buzzing sound when i reach 70%, and i would like to reach 80-85%. Does it help to install the #4 instead ?

Enjoy the day people
In my personal experience with savor servos I have found some of them don't have the same amount of travel as others, I would try a different servo and see if the problem goes away. I ended up changing servo brands because of the inconsistencies in there servos.
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