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Old 10-14-2015, 07:55 AM   #9976
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:33 AM   #9977
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Agreed. But to add clarity as to why computer fans pull air, that's usually the case because there are usually more than one fan and they work in unison where one pulls air from he front to blow cooler air over components and the rear fans suck that air out to cool more efficiently, but they work in tandem.

The Older G5's had a transparent plastic cover on the side that was moulded in order to create a vortex and channel air through the entire system in specific fashion.

As for the WTF Fans, they are widely used in TC racing and I can confirm they blow MUCH more air than the average RC fan at a higher rate of speed. They really do the job well.
I definitely need to try one!!!
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:29 PM   #9978
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Sorry but that bit in bold is just not right. I've seen this car with Saddle setup numerous times and it's fine. The vast majority of motors are 98% identical in size.
you just have to ensure you set your solder tabs correctly.
Disagree. Try mounting a Tekin motor on the right side. Won't happen unless you shave a little off the steering post.
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:26 PM   #9979
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What chassis are working best on the tight tracks ?
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:10 AM   #9980
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Sorry but that bit in bold is just not right. I've seen this car with Saddle setup numerous times and it's fine. The vast majority of motors are 98% identical in size.
you just have to ensure you set your solder tabs correctly.
I tried a viper, novak, and a speedzone. They would fit if I ground down the steering post but I wasn't comfortable doing that. It wasn't a matter of the solder tabs, the cans were just a bit too long.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:22 AM   #9981
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I run the Orion VST2 for the saddle layout. This works because the sensorport is on the side. For low grip i like the saddle layout more. Now i setup the D413 to shorty, for the carpet indoorseason.
Have someone a god start setup for medium grip / flat carpet with mini pin? Or is Ty's setup a good start?
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:27 AM   #9982
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Originally Posted by maece78 View Post
I run the Orion VST2 for the saddle layout. This works because the sensorport is on the side. For low grip i like the saddle layout more. Now i setup the D413 to shorty, for the carpet indoorseason.
Have someone a god start setup for medium grip / flat carpet with mini pin? Or is Ty's setup a good start?
Our dirt track was recently carpeted. All I did was change shock oil from 35/30 to 40/35, dropped the ride height by 2mm and changed center diff from 100K to 60K. Also removed the front sway bar and changed rear from black to copper.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:35 AM   #9983
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This car is so much fun .....

Two more drivers at my track picked these up. One of them won the a main with a 2 stick radio his first outing with the car .

The other had his lowest lap time and best finish ever in 4wd.

I am also having a bit of luck with the car . I can confirm for anyone lurking , that a smc racing 5.5t with a 20t pinion and 100k in the center diff will absolutely rip on a small , grippy clay track. I have been running with just the rear sway bar , 7/100/3 in the diffs , 1.66 pistons with 37f/30r oil and the car is great. I haven't broken anything still , but my rear arms are starting to get sloppy. I thought the body would be toast by now , but its doing fine . Its funny , but this car can bully other buggies if the need arises fwiw.

So much for my pointless update , just remember to keep having fun , talk sht with your friends, and have more fun...
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:36 PM   #9984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maece78 View Post
Have someone a god start setup for medium grip / flat carpet with mini pin? Or is Ty's setup a good start?
Ronnefalk's EOS wels setup has been great starting point in "medium" grip carpet.
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Old 10-16-2015, 02:43 AM   #9985
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Thanks for the setupsheet. I'm a little confused. This setup is compleatly different to Ty's setup.
Ty's setup is closer to the Basic setup and i think with more reargrip.
Ronnefalks's setup looks more for open tracks. I start with Ty's setup an try the Ronnefalk setup with Ty's Diffsetup once at the track. This changes needs maby 1h. With the Diffchange 3-4h The only thing that i dont like on this car is to change the geardiffs.
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:47 AM   #9986
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I don't get or understand how some say it takes so long to do a diff oil change. Yea the first time I did mine it took me a little bit, but now can usually cut it down to about 15-20mins for a Diff.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:06 AM   #9987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiQ View Post
Ronnefalk's EOS wels setup has been great starting point in "medium" grip carpet.
Thanks for the setup!

Can anybody please explain me, why David is choosing Ackermann #5 with the stock chassis on med grip carpet?
I would understand it with +4mm or +6mm chassis, cause #5 is less aggressive.
I really donīt get it, with #5 is also off power steering not so good like with #4 or #3 Ackermann.

Or m I totally wrong?

Iīve tested Ackermann #3,#4 & #5 the last view months on a med/large 1:10 clay, low grip and dusty outdoor track
with tight infield sections. Also with stock chassis and Schelle carbon +4mm.
For me personally is Schelle +4mm and Ackermann #4 the best choice on my track.


Thanks a lot!
cheers
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:51 AM   #9988
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
I don't get or understand how some say it takes so long to do a diff oil change. Yea the first time I did mine it took me a little bit, but now can usually cut it down to about 15-20mins for a Diff.
Yes, the diff oil change need not more then 15-20min. But you have 3 of it and first you have to take it out of the car. And sorry, to remove the front and reardiff and replace them is very bad.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:11 AM   #9989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertsch View Post
Thanks for the setup!

Can anybody please explain me, why David is choosing Ackermann #5 with the stock chassis on med grip carpet?
I would understand it with +4mm or +6mm chassis, cause #5 is less aggressive.
I really donīt get it, with #5 is also off power steering not so good like with #4 or #3 Ackermann.

Or m I totally wrong?

Iīve tested Ackermann #3,#4 & #5 the last view months on a med/large 1:10 clay, low grip and dusty outdoor track
with tight infield sections. Also with stock chassis and Schelle carbon +4mm.
For me personally is Schelle +4mm and Ackermann #4 the best choice on my track.


Thanks a lot!
cheers


Alot of it is just personal feel. I run the #5's in all conditions as it helps smooth out the steering for me. I even have my servo speed in my radio turned down some as well due to the high speed servo.
I am sure if your servo isn't super fast, the #4's would be perfectly fine, but for me the #4's are too twitchy, even in low-medium traction surfaces.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:17 AM   #9990
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Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
Alot of it is just personal feel. I run the #5's in all conditions as it helps smooth out the steering for me. I even have my servo speed in my radio turned down some as well due to the high speed servo.
I am sure if your servo isn't super fast, the #4's would be perfectly fine, but for me the #4's are too twitchy, even in low-medium traction surfaces.
Same here, i use #5 every time with +4mm Redworkshop chassis. Now i use #6, 15°caster block and the new +6mm chassis it's a lot more smooth and predictable.
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