nrm1977

iTrader: (65)

Im having the same issue with my rear end of the buggy breaking loose on power. Trying to figure out how to lock the rear end in....suggestions?

10k 100k 10k diffs
42.5f and 35r with 1.6, 1.7 vrp pistons, kyo orange front and kyosho white/red rear
I went stiffer swaybars from kit....black/silver i believe
Everything else is box setup

Apexracing

I didnt have any problem with my stock turnbuckles other then they looked cheap and toy like. I went with the lunsfords because i had a stock pile left over from my dirt oval cars. They fit my stock ball cups perfectly.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I've been running TYs original Reedy Setup for past 1yr now and feel pretty planted even with the stock chassis. I run on Med to High Bite and also have the Schelle Carbon chassis and 7.5 motor.

For Diffs I run 7-100-5, no swaybar in front and black swaybar for rear.
Front Shocks: 2x1.6 HB Red 40wt Losi and Traxxas Xrings
Rear Shocks: 2x1.7 HB Gold 30/32.5 wt Losi and Traxxas Xrings

I can drive the car pretty hard in and out of the turns and so far never had an issue with it stepping out or breaking loose.

Also with my stock & Schelle chassis I switched the layout of stuff. ESC behind the motor, RX & TP front of motor

uncle everett

iTrader: (15)

1. Lower rear diff, go to 3-5k
2. Copper sway bars front and rear
3. Increase front droop, decrease rear
4. Use the kyosho springs ty typically runs

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Play with those diffs ....

The 10/100/10 IMO is really geared towards high bite tracks.

I am down to 7/50/3 in my car and love the way its driving. If you think about how adjustable a ball diff is , and compare that to the difference between using 3k or 5k or 7k diff fluid in a gear diff you can start to get an idea of how dramatic the diff oil changes really are.

Try as many as you can find the time to try . I am pretty confident that I could tighten a ball diff as tight as it can get , and not come close to the effect 10k weight oil would have. If you wouldn't run really tight ball diffs at your track , than the 10k is probably too much.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

+ 1,000,000

When I upgraded from my 13 XB4 to my 14 XB4 I couldn't believe how terrible the 14 felt compared to my 13. The car was super twitchy, had way too much steering and drove so hard from the front wheels that the rear of the car just got slung around on power. It seemed like it wasn't making rear traction. I set the slipper setting exactly as specified by the XRay manual. I saw other guys at my track with B44.3s who were having similar problems and they went to 60K in their center diffs and their problem went away. So I began to loosen the slipper on my XRay and the car just kept getting better the more I loosened it. I had loosened it almost .75mm more than the manual suggested and it made a huge difference. The car was glued to the track. And this was on a high traction track where we run slicks. Normally the slipper/diff is set-up tighter/higher for high traction tracks, but we all preferred a looser center slipper/diff.

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Hey Guys,

I asked about this a while back but didn't get a response. Anyhow I was able to replace my dog bone pins and found that the serpent 2.5mm x 10mm fit pretty good. They are a bit shorter than the stock ones by about .5-.75mm but do not seem to be an issue with engaging in the drive cups. Anyways, I'm looking for a better solution and am going to try some 2.5 x 11.8mm pins to see if they will work better. I'll report back when I find the optimal solution. Just thought I'd share in case anyone was interested in replacing their own pins instead of having to buy the entire drive shafts.

RacingCraze21

iTrader: (18)

Here's a question for anyone to respond too... Recently I built my D413. I have about 6 runs on the car. I pulled out the front and center Diffs to change the oil for tuning. And the oil was really dirty. I guess my question is... Is that normal being the first oil change? And how often should I change/ freshen up the oils in the diffs?

moch8

What tool did you use to change the pins?

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

I used my shop vice, a small socket, and another pin that was smaller in diameter. Take some vice grips, grab the smaller pin in the middle. Then take the dogbone, place it against a small socket like a 6mm socket so that when you stick that in the vice the pin can push out into the socket.

Push the pin halfway through till it bottoms out in the vice, open the vice, hold the socket, dogbone, and grab the vice grips with the small pin in it and line that up with the dogbone, all that goes in the vice and use that small pin to press the dogbone pin out the rest of the way until it falls into the socket.

There's a video online I think changing kyosho dogbone pins. A visual explains it much better.

I'm cheap, but if these pins don't last long I'll invest in a proper tool.

boggiii

What body options is out there for this car? JC, proline and stock. .anything else?

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

^^^ Those are basically the only ones currently available

RENOV8R

When someone talks about adjusting droop, Im assuming that this can only be done by lengthening/shortening the shock ends?

Gertsch

I did some experiments with the droop in the last few weeks.
Lengthening/shortening the shock ends is the only way I know at least I can see so far.

cheers

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Unscrewing or screwing on the shock ends is the easy way to adjust. They even put some lines on the shock shaft so you can be pretty consistent with the settings. You could also put spacers on the shaft under the piston if you want to reduce droop. It makes it a pain to adjust because you need to disassemble the shock to do it, but it's how most 1/10 cars adjust droop.

I wish more cars would get the 1/8 buggy style droop screws. Being able to quickly and easily adjust droop is such a powerful tuning tool.