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Old 09-05-2015, 10:38 AM   #9826
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Can you buy the plastic top shock cap inserts for the aluminum caps?
Yes... I don't have the aluminum caps, but I believe they are the same as the 1/8th scale #67351, but you get some "extras" with them.
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:49 AM   #9827
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Hi all,

I'm after some help with my carpet setup. I run on a track with extremely high traction using pin points and under extreme braking one of my drive shafts at the front consistently pops out.

I'm running Ty's carpet setup except for the centre diff oil at 100000 instead of 50000. The drive shaft looks short with 1mm f/f and 2mm f/r spacers. The dog bone is only just holding on to the diff cups. At full compression, the bottom arm of the dog bone leaves the cup.

A 78mm drive would solve my problem but I haven't found onto that will fit the d413.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:37 PM   #9828
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Originally Posted by matt_stomper View Post
Hi all,

I'm after some help with my carpet setup. I run on a track with extremely high traction using pin points and under extreme braking one of my drive shafts at the front consistently pops out.

I'm running Ty's carpet setup except for the centre diff oil at 100000 instead of 50000. The drive shaft looks short with 1mm f/f and 2mm f/r spacers. The dog bone is only just holding on to the diff cups. At full compression, the bottom arm of the dog bone leaves the cup.

A 78mm drive would solve my problem but I haven't found onto that will fit the d413.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.
You're front and rear gear sets are backwards. The out drives are different lengths.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:40 AM   #9829
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You're front and rear gear sets are backwards. The out drives are different lengths.
So smart, your right,I have been trying to think what would cause that for 2 days. This is like rc trivia
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:10 AM   #9830
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Is there a high speed version of front and rear diff removal ? Does the shock tower and deck brace always need to come off , or I have not done it enough to see the quick way to do it ?
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:21 AM   #9831
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Not really... yea the deck and bracing needs to be removed.

You could try unscrewing the decks and brace mount back to deck and then remove diff case from the chassis.

I can usually get the front done in about 15-20mins if only doing that one. When I do the rear diff it takes about 20mins as well. I've never had to change them both during racing, but its possible to do between rounds based on how many cars your running.
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:06 PM   #9832
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There's a lot of slop in the linkage between the servo horn and the steering rack. Has anyone tried the TLR 22 steering linkage?
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Old 09-10-2015, 02:06 PM   #9833
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There's a lot of slop in the linkage between the servo horn and the steering rack. Has anyone tried the TLR 22 steering linkage?
Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:08 PM   #9834
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Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.



Do you happen to have the part # for those xray ball studs?
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:08 PM   #9835
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What brand of machined pistons work best in the d413
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:33 PM   #9836
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Do you happen to have the part # for those xray ball studs?
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:56 PM   #9837
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Is there something better than a d413 in the 1/10 4wd class? X-ray?
I have owned all the buggies out there except for the new serpent. The d413 is by far the best buggy I have driven and the easiest to work on.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:58 PM   #9838
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What brand of machined pistons work best in the d413
I am using these. http://www.rcshox.com/hotbodies/
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:21 AM   #9839
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.
There's a few of us at our track using the B5/B5M Ball Studs (8mm) and Ball cups and remove the slop and still plenty of free movement, no binding issues.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:34 AM   #9840
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There's a few of us at our track using the B5/B5M Ball Studs (8mm) and Ball cups and remove the slop and still plenty of free movement, no binding issues.
Yea. Maybe I described it poorly. In the short steering linkage there really isn't any binding. Just a tight enough fit that the ball studs don't move around in the freely. They don't flop around under their own weight any more and it tightens it all up.

I'm sure there are studd/cups that work as well like you are saying.
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