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Old 08-13-2015, 01:36 PM   #9676
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If you use the turnbuckle dimensions in the manual , and the washer / shim arrangement in the manual for the hinge pins, do you end up with the silver dollar set up in the back of the book , or something else ?
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:01 PM   #9677
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How many are NOT using the servo saver on med to low grip indoor tracks ? Is it strong enough for most everything but the highest grip surfaces or what ?
Whats that?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:49 PM   #9678
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If you use the turnbuckle dimensions in the manual , and the washer / shim arrangement in the manual for the hinge pins, do you end up with the silver dollar set up in the back of the book , or something else ?
Also curious about this.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:37 PM   #9679
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I lost the c-clip that holds the outer bearing in. in the rear gearbox the parts diagram shows I have to buy the gear set to get this clip. anybody know what size this is and if I can buy it without gear set........
I picked up a gearbox shim set 112963, there were 4 of them in there... although any pics of the shim set do not show that...
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:21 AM   #9680
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Default Shock Build Question

I am starting to build my D413. This is the second car I have built so please don't flame me if this is a stupid question.

Before I started to build the shocks I went out to Ty's website and watched the video of his father building 1/8 scale shocks. I attempted to build my D413 shocks the same way. After a couple attempts (could not keep the shocks from rebounding) I hoped over here and realized that the shock cap hole actually needs to be drilled. I also realized that the build video on Ty's site appears to be a combination of bladder and emulsion.

Has anyone used Ty's 1/8th scale shock build method on their D413? what are the pro/con of each type?

Thanks!
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:46 AM   #9681
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You can use it as guidance, but I would build the 413 shocks emulsion style. Mine have been this way since October and the car feels better with them IMO and based on my driving style.

Yes you'll need to drill small hole in cap where there's a screw hole at. When I build mine I put oil to top of shock and then slowly screw the top on about half way down, and slide shock shaft up so it bleeds out the small hole, finish screwing top down and then tighten small screw into bleed hole.
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:21 AM   #9682
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thanks I was not paying 35.00 for the gear set shims are much cheaper
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:18 PM   #9683
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SHOCK STYLES.
BLADDER VERSE EMULSION.

does anyone actually know what difference it all makes,
I see people stating "i tried it, its good" but no explanation.
I ask because i dont know, so any info would be great.
I guess emulsion, needs the shocks to be pumped up/down before each race to get the bubbles consistant in the shock, but how is it better?
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:32 PM   #9684
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I checked from setup sheets "glued arms". So I taked some tireglue and filled all the empty space under the plate. Then I thought that does it actually mean that you just gently glue the plate into the arm and not fill it?
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:00 PM   #9685
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Originally Posted by Dal View Post
SHOCK STYLES.
BLADDER VERSE EMULSION.

does anyone actually know what difference it all makes,
I see people stating "i tried it, its good" but no explanation.
I ask because i dont know, so any info would be great.
I guess emulsion, needs the shocks to be pumped up/down before each race to get the bubbles consistant in the shock, but how is it better?
In a bladder shock, shock oil cannot compress or expand, so for the piston to move up or down at all oil must flow through the piston. With an emulsion shock, there is air on either side of the piston that can compress and expand allowing the piston to move without any oil passing through the piston. This allows emulsion shocks to react more quickly to small/sharp impacts and is why many people prefer how they feel on 10th scale cars. However, bladder shocks are more consistent from the start of a run to the end and is why they are favored in 8th scale vehicles where consistency over an hour long main is key.
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:29 PM   #9686
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In a bladder shock, shock oil cannot compress or expand, so for the piston to move up or down at all oil must flow through the piston. With an emulsion shock, there is air on either side of the piston that can compress and expend allowing the piston to move without any oil passing through the piston. This allows emulsion shocks to react more quickly to small/sharp impacts and is why many people prefer how they feel on 10th scale cars. However, bladder shocks are more consistent from the start of a run to the end and is why they are favored in 8th scale vehicles where consistency over an hour long main is key.
great explanation,thanks, might have to test it now, dam it.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:00 PM   #9687
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I have the VRP 2 hole 1.6 and 1.7 pistons/traxxas X rings and the HB aluminum shock caps coming. What is the best way to set these shocks up for indoor clay, bladder/emulsion? Going to start with Ty's setup that allot are running and the sheet says "No bladders" So what seals the caps? Just want to make sure I have what I need and am not lost when I go to do it. Thanks
The VRP site has the shock oil he recommends and work great on indoor clay. I believe its 37.5 front, 35 rear. Cell em up.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:02 PM   #9688
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The upgrade did take the slop out but the ball cups were tight a popped off easily if I even tapped anything until they broke in. Probably should use the Xray cups also. Has anyone used the Xray cups? Part #. Thanks
I installed the Xray cups works as should.
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Old 08-15-2015, 04:00 PM   #9689
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The VRP site has the shock oil he recommends and work great on indoor clay. I believe its 37.5 front, 35 rear. Cell em up.
Thanks, I will check into it.
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Old 08-17-2015, 06:49 AM   #9690
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I checked from setup sheets "glued arms". So I taked some tireglue and filled all the empty space under the plate. Then I thought that does it actually mean that you just gently glue the plate into the arm and not fill it?
This post is filled with awesome !
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