STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Thanks

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Kenny, I'm running almost that same setup, but your running heavier oils
I'm running 40 front HB Red Spring and 30 to 32.5 rear HB Gold... no wheelie issues with mine.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Stop trolling. If you have nothing remotely positive to say keep your fingers away from the keyboard.

Apexracing

I have to actually run my negative lead longer, because of the way the pack comes so close to the center diff and the top chassis deck. I have to insert the bullet from the rear of the car at an angle. Then swivel the wire back and out of the way.

bladeys

iTrader: (17)

So far I am able to place my positive in vertically. I ran the timiing wire along the top carbon brace to the front. Have fun.

kenny lutz

iTrader: (38)

i went to heavier oils for the added weight but if it continues to try to wheelie ill try to soften in up some

Apexracing

Its pretty close, i run my negative wire towards the inside of the chassis, and the positive wire toward the outside. I run 5mm bullets so that could be why its such a tight fit. I might dremel some material away from the top deck to make more room. Or just connect the negative lead first before i slide the battery in.

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

It was that way in my previous car... just never bothered to cut it off after switching ESC to this car.

Chr1s

iTrader: (1)

I would not be dremeling the top decks. I have broken the front top deck before.

Dan.J

iTrader: (21)

Could use a little guidance from you guys that have been running these for awhile now, I am going to start reading the thread from the start but figured someone could give me the cliff notes

I have one of these coming used, obviously I am going to go thru the buggy once its here. I will be setting this up for med/high bite indoor clay. I see lots of different chassis for this buggy, is there one that stands out indoors? Or is the stock chassis good? What would be a good setup to start with for indoors to get me in the ballpark? What spares or updates have you guys found were needed or just simply make the buggy better? Buggy is coming with a 6.5T (which may be too much IMO) but going to try it and go from there, where would you start pinion wise? Thanks and appreciate anyone that takes the time to answer.

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

I run on a medium to high bite indoor clay track. I'm running the Ty Tessman Gunsmoke setup, with a few changes. I don't have the "C" rear shock tower, and I use sway bars to keep the car feeling the same as the traction comes up. First two rounds no sway bars, third round copper sway bars front and back, black sway bar front (thickest) and copper rear for the mains. I run the stock chassis, and the thickest front bar helped the car from dumping over the front, and doing three wheel motion into the corners. I will eventually get the schelle carbon fiber +4mm chassis, as it is supposed to help with the three wheeling too. I run a 6.5 and off the top of my head I think I run a 24t pinion. The motor comes off at 140ish, a little hotter if I push really hard. I was gonna run a 5.5, but started with a 6.5 as thats what I had, and I wanted to see how our new track would be. I don't feel I'm losing anything to the guys running 5.5s, but our track isn't that big.

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

I've had mine since Nov 2014. Run indoor clay and use exact setup for ty tessmann 2015 reedy setup. Stock chassis and a 5.5 like ty. 20t pinion . Comes off 170 temp. 6.5 perfect too the car is money and very very happy with it

Dan.J

iTrader: (21)

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. So the stock chassis is all that's needed indoors I take it. Any other upgrades that are truly needed or "nice" to have for this buggy? Allready has the alum. Serpent shock caps, but pretty much box stock other than that to my knowledge.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

The Avid Hexes are a nice touch. No more worrying about losing the axle pin.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html

Egress

Hey guys,

I have been running my car the whole last Indoor season and the whole year outdoor. I simply love it, it's the best car i have ever owned.
Since the Outdoor season began in April i rebuilt the dampers with the aluminium shock caps as i had the regular plastic caps coming off from time to time although i really liked their design.
Now what i realized is that after a 6 minutes run i often can see that shock oil came out of the tiny hole in the shock cap. Since the plastic caps don't have these holes i am wondering what this is for? If i run about 10 runs i assume that there is missing a certain amount of Shock oil causing the damper to suck some air.
Is this hole for exiting oil while landing hard after a jump? But why do the plastic caps haven't got that hole?
I know from the 1/8th dampers from a friend that these have this hole too but i never saw oil coming out of it. Guys any help is much appreciated!