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Old 07-25-2015, 05:04 PM   #9601
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Finished the build, everything went very smooth. Couple of upgrades from the start. Carbon fiber inserts, alum shock caps, exotek spur, Ackerman arm.



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Old 07-25-2015, 06:50 PM   #9602
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Finished the build, everything went very smooth. Couple of upgrades from the start. Carbon fiber inserts, alum shock caps, exotek spur, Ackerman arm.



Looks clean
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:36 PM   #9603
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Default Rear Hub loose

I cannot remember if there was space between the rear hubs and the arms. I have significant slop now forward and back on the rear hub. Is this normal.

Thanks,
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:14 AM   #9604
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Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:27 AM   #9605
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Looks clean
Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.

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Originally Posted by Cuffer View Post
I cannot remember if there was space between the rear hubs and the arms. I have significant slop now forward and back on the rear hub. Is this normal.

Thanks,
Does the instruction manual show a spacer?

The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.

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Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.

Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:53 AM   #9606
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Looks... like he still has to install a couple components. Easy for the car to look clean without an ESC or receiver. Also, I doubt he should run those front spring cups.



Does the instruction manual show a spacer?

The one downfall of the durable arms is that to be that durable, they have to be soft. Your arms have probably stretched some, especially if you do a lot of durability testing. Also, because the arms do last so long, they have plenty of time to deform. You can add some shims to take out the play, or try some new arms.



Well, if the outdrives are worn, they could cause binding. Are your outdrives worn? How worn are your driveshafts? If you notice your car seems to randomly spin out sometimes, and your drive train has weird binding, that is likely why. Although, if you run on high bite carpet, you mat not notice it on track.

Ultimately, this is why 4wd buggies are still for people that are good at maintaining their stuff. Three times the drive train of a 2wd buggy is still three times the work (and three times the cost) to keep properly maintained.
You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:08 AM   #9607
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You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
Well, it doesn't sound like your outdrives are bad. I was thinking they might have had massive notches.

Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
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Old 07-28-2015, 08:13 AM   #9608
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Well, it doesn't sound like your outdrives are bad. I was thinking they might have had massive notches.

Something is definitely not right though. Check to make sure the bearings are smooth, and that the shims are right. Should be fairly simple to figure out once you have it apart.
Yea a bearing thats binding could heat up and distort the diff case. I've also noticed not to over tighten the diff housing screws where the two halves bolt together, this can cause some slight binding as well.
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:54 PM   #9609
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You are absolutely right, it takes way more time and effort to keep a 4WD in good condition.
Well my outdrives are worn in the way that the Black coating is nearly off now. But i think i found the problem: i guess it binds in the diff case side because the Diff case itself is worn, i noticed a significant amount of tiny plastic on one outdrive. I will replace the diff case and go from there..
I had exact same thing and your right, diff case. I just back rear arm screw off 1/4 turn and clacking binding gone.
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:37 PM   #9610
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I removed all slop from mine. Absolutely zero slop left. This is what you need to do.
Buy some Xray 8mm ball ends (XRA362651) 12 pieces , - 8 : Front - 2 : rear - 2 : servo. Bushings - 4 pieces. XRA362290. 2 for the steering blocks and 2 for the Ackerman. These parts are 0.1mm larger then HB.
The bushings fit very tight in the ackerman, but dont worry it works great.
You also need some 1-2mm shims, because the XB4 ball ends are a little shorter, so if you put a 2mm shim on the steering ball you have 6mm like HB
To begin with it all is a little tight, but it will loosen up after a few hours.
When i drop mine, the sound it makes when it lands is niiiice. Dosnīt sound like dropping a bag of empty cans anymore, more like a BMW door closing.
I felt the car became a little more responsive, but also a little more predictable. I also think the slop is positive when it comes to durability. I prefer zero slop. F....... hate slop.

Enjoy

Forgot. Also put a 5x7x0,2mm (or 0,1mm) shim behind the Hex hubs. No more slop, and no more pins falling out
Thank you for sharing this upgrade it is remarkable.
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:43 PM   #9611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Egress View Post
Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I had a similar problem on my rear diff. Ended up being the outdrive on the gear end of the diff. It must have got wet at some point because it has a small amount of surface rust on it, when I cleaned it off the diff is like butter. You can tell if this is happening on your car by simply spinning one of your tires, it should move freely with no stick or bind.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:41 AM   #9612
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Can I get a part number to make sure
Sorry for the late reply,started a new apartment block build and there isn't enough hours in the day anyway part HPIZ087.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:50 PM   #9613
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Originally Posted by Egress View Post
Hey guys!

I have a strange problem on my D413, when i turn the front or rear wheel to check the diffs on a certain point they seem to bind.
Checked the diffs and all seems ok.
To be fair the car ran through many packs the last year without changing any diff parts.
Could it be a slight play on one bearing or the outdrives being worn? Any ideas are much appreciated!
I had similar problem with my original D413. I swore that it was dif related but I noticed if I loosened the wheels it went away. Come to find out, the stock plastic crush tubes actually crushed and because their thickness was reduced it caused the front wheel bearings to go bad. After that, I have been sanding down B5m aluminum front crush tubes and I've never had that problem again. Its worth looking at.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:58 AM   #9614
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I see a lot of setups have more shims in the front rear suspension holder then the front front, what effect does that have on the car?
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:24 AM   #9615
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I see a lot of setups have more shims in the front rear suspension holder then the front front, what effect does that have on the car?
Google "Tekno RC arm sweep". The very first thing that comes up is a PDF file that explains exactly what it does.
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