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Old 06-05-2015, 07:59 AM   #9316
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Thanks guys. I have already looked at the VRC ones, but I was just wanting to use regular pistons. The VRC pistons seem cool, I just don't like that they are thicker than the normal piston. This causes the lock nut to not lock on the shock shaft.

I will look at rcshox again. I just saw the steering rack. I will look harder.
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Old 06-05-2015, 08:11 AM   #9317
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i have kind of settled on 31/69 with team powers motor timing at "2"

i am running the exotek 69 spur, and it is LOUD ! even with a full heat i got no problem hearing my car ....unfortunatly in my opinion the more you can hear it the more power is wasted in making the sound....today it will get torn apart get some fresh bearings and checked out

our local fast guy can with his 44.2 nail 16.2-16.6 lap times, where i struggle with 17 flats...he can tripple out...i cant.....on the upside i got same amount of laps (19) as the 44.2, and a 44.3 running mod motor....so thats cool....
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Old 06-05-2015, 12:07 PM   #9318
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Maybe different diff fluids, depending on surface type. I know for a few weeks I tried different fluids and it actually harmed my lap times. I was at 100K in center diff and for a week I tried 60k in center, I ended up back with 100k cause I was more consistent with it and had better lap times. Shocks and pistons also play a huge part with this car.
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:24 PM   #9319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YANMAN View Post
Thanks guys. I have already looked at the VRC ones, but I was just wanting to use regular pistons. The VRC pistons seem cool, I just don't like that they are thicker than the normal piston. This causes the lock nut to not lock on the shock shaft.

I will look at rcshox again. I just saw the steering rack. I will look harder.
I have the VRC pistons on my car now and have used the standard rcshox ones previously. In both cases, the lock nut properly threads and locks onto the shock shaft. You have nothing to worry about with either one.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:33 PM   #9320
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
I have the VRC pistons on my car now and have used the standard rcshox ones previously. In both cases, the lock nut properly threads and locks onto the shock shaft. You have nothing to worry about with either one.
Great news. I was just going off of the VRC Web page. He said you would need to use lock tight or but the nut on backwards. I am so excited about this kit. I just finished my 1/8th scale and get its first run tomorrow. The D413 is like building a mini 1/8th scale. The diffs are super smooth. 1st race will be next weekend with the D413
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:28 PM   #9321
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Anyone know if any place has the Exotek Spur and mounting plate in stock? Been looking and it seems like everyone is sold out.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:35 AM   #9322
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Compared to the stock type pistons how do the VRP Pistons compare? Car run a bit faster? Just looking as I run on a outdoor rough loose track.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:04 AM   #9323
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Compared to the stock type pistons how do the VRP Pistons compare? Car run a bit faster? Just looking as I run on a outdoor rough loose track.
I have these pistons in all of my cars. At my local outdoor track it is very rough and blown out. The VRP pistons seem to handle the rough conditions extremely well as it increases the rebound. I have noticed a considerable advantage over the stock pistons.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:17 AM   #9324
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Lap times are a bit faster with these pistons in all your cars then compared to stock ones?
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:21 AM   #9325
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Lap times are a bit faster with these pistons in all your cars then compared to stock ones?
Hard to say, we haven't had any real racing lately. They do feel more planted than last years set up.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:23 AM   #9326
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Finally received my aluminum shock caps out of the blue (ordered them a few months ago) so I decided it was a good time to install the VRP pistons as well. Excited to get to AZ and get this car back on the clay.












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Last edited by seanhawk; 06-07-2015 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:23 AM   #9327
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Thanks Seanhawk
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Old 06-07-2015, 01:16 PM   #9328
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Acer ceramic bearings, wow what a difference.

short story....i run 13.5, and my car is good but not very fast, i can get 19 laps out of it just like the mod guys, and top 13.5 driver, but i am about 8 seconds behind....so something needs to be done

when i try to make a car faster theres 3 things i look at: weight, friction, rotational mass.

so to get fast i decided to fix 1 thing at a time and test drive.

Rotational mass.: my main competitor runs a B44.2 which has a very light drivetrain, with its spool in the center and ball diffs front and rear, with plastic gears. D413 has metal gears and oil spinning around....heavy, and there is not much we can do about it...theres two options i can think off, 1 is earplugs in the center and front diff, this is lighter than oil, and allows the diff to have some give....onroad guys have been doing that for years....ok so theres nothing i can do about it....i wish someone made aluminum center axles like tekno does in their bigger buggies

Friction.: 1 gears, my car was a used from a team driver....so i was surpriced when i saw ring and pinion gears where dry....when you got metal to metal contact you really should have some lube, if you dont like the mess of black grease you should at least use some dry ptfe (teflon) spray....i use honda 60% moly, moly is a crystal that goes into the pores of the matal and continues to lube even when there carrier (grease) is gone.....honda grease is a lighter grease than say regular RC black grease, so it sticks less which makes for less friction than black grease.....i went out and ran a pack, motor came off 10 degrees less, and it was like taking out 5% dragbrake, and i started to overshoot here and there....NICE, and CHEAP to do

Bearings have friction too, i have had the stock bearings out about a month a go, where i cleaned them and lubed with acer liguid sin oil....which helped a bit. i usually rung avid bearings due to their cheap price, and excelent quality, but their ceramic bearings start out at 100+ $...boca is more like 200$ for a kit...too much $$$ for me. acer has a sale going on and i picked up a full kit for 60$ (they are not fully ceramic but rather ceramic coated)...still very expensive, but i decided to give them a go....all bearings swapped out and WOW it was like taking out 10% dragbrake...i never thought it could be this big a difference.....i have to add a bit of dragbrake now....my lap times went down 0.2-0.4 seconds NICE !ohh yeah motor temps down 15-20 degrees


Weight.: lots of stuff to do, but most are expensive, so i always start with the cheap stuff first. Cut wires as short as possible, wires weighs a ton...and its a free mod....second you can go with titanium in a lot of places, this tend to cost a lot, hingepins are the cheapest, but havent found them for the d413. Ti turnbucles are the one of the most expensive upgrades, and it only makes for 4-6 grams difference, so not worth it imho. theres plenty of screw kits ranging from 40$ to 200$, its doesnt take out that much weight. Ti ballstuds are an option too, again its less than 10 grams saving....and with Ti you risk snapping stuff, instead of bending like steel. so i dont know if i want to go Ti

any one know of other mods to get the D413 faster in spec class ?
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Old 06-07-2015, 01:44 PM   #9329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cygnus X View Post
Acer ceramic bearings, wow what a difference.

short story....i run 13.5, and my car is good but not very fast, i can get 19 laps out of it just like the mod guys, and top 13.5 driver, but i am about 8 seconds behind....so something needs to be done

when i try to make a car faster theres 3 things i look at: weight, friction, rotational mass.

so to get fast i decided to fix 1 thing at a time and test drive.

Rotational mass.: my main competitor runs a B44.2 which has a very light drivetrain, with its spool in the center and ball diffs front and rear, with plastic gears. D413 has metal gears and oil spinning around....heavy, and there is not much we can do about it...theres two options i can think off, 1 is earplugs in the center and front diff, this is lighter than oil, and allows the diff to have some give....onroad guys have been doing that for years....ok so theres nothing i can do about it....i wish someone made aluminum center axles like tekno does in their bigger buggies

Friction.: 1 gears, my car was a used from a team driver....so i was surpriced when i saw ring and pinion gears where dry....when you got metal to metal contact you really should have some lube, if you dont like the mess of black grease you should at least use some dry ptfe (teflon) spray....i use honda 60% moly, moly is a crystal that goes into the pores of the matal and continues to lube even when there carrier (grease) is gone.....honda grease is a lighter grease than say regular RC black grease, so it sticks less which makes for less friction than black grease.....i went out and ran a pack, motor came off 10 degrees less, and it was like taking out 5% dragbrake, and i started to overshoot here and there....NICE, and CHEAP to do

Bearings have friction too, i have had the stock bearings out about a month a go, where i cleaned them and lubed with acer liguid sin oil....which helped a bit. i usually rung avid bearings due to their cheap price, and excelent quality, but their ceramic bearings start out at 100+ $...boca is more like 200$ for a kit...too much $$$ for me. acer has a sale going on and i picked up a full kit for 60$ (they are not fully ceramic but rather ceramic coated)...still very expensive, but i decided to give them a go....all bearings swapped out and WOW it was like taking out 10% dragbrake...i never thought it could be this big a difference.....i have to add a bit of dragbrake now....my lap times went down 0.2-0.4 seconds NICE !ohh yeah motor temps down 15-20 degrees


Weight.: lots of stuff to do, but most are expensive, so i always start with the cheap stuff first. Cut wires as short as possible, wires weighs a ton...and its a free mod....second you can go with titanium in a lot of places, this tend to cost a lot, hingepins are the cheapest, but havent found them for the d413. Ti turnbucles are the one of the most expensive upgrades, and it only makes for 4-6 grams difference, so not worth it imho. theres plenty of screw kits ranging from 40$ to 200$, its doesnt take out that much weight. Ti ballstuds are an option too, again its less than 10 grams saving....and with Ti you risk snapping stuff, instead of bending like steel. so i dont know if i want to go Ti

any one know of other mods to get the D413 faster in spec class ?
Sounds like a good start, this is the reason I race mod. Purchase a lower turn motor which is considerably cheaper than all the mods "needed" for a spec class.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:00 PM   #9330
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i prefer mod as well....stock/spec races always turn into who can put the most $$$ into a car....

Norcal hobbies currently runs a SPEC series, which is the only reason i am running 13.5....otherwise there would be a 6.5 in its place...i also figured that running a 13.5 would help me tighten up my lines....in mod i do 19 laps too.....so i guess after a bit of 13.5 i would get faster in mod.

i certainly miss those crazy accelerations of the 6.5

i wonder if a tekin RS esc would hold up to a 13.5...its lighter than the hobbywing v3.1 120A in there right now

also i felt my car was way better with 200K in the center when running the 13.5....makes for even output front and rear ...just like the b44.2 with out its center diff
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