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Old 05-13-2015, 09:36 PM   #9151
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Originally Posted by mvrk28 View Post
You won't be able to walk in and get parts, eliminate that thought from your head ASAP.

What you are going to have to do is buy commonly broken parts ahead of time in case you have an issue. So to date I have broken 1 front shock shaft and one shock eyelet. I keep multiple spares in my pit bag (sorry fellas, I stalk to net for this stuff).

Off the bat I would say you should track down the following:

1. Front Shock Shafts
2. Front Shock Tower
3. Front Shock Tower Mount
4. Front A-Arms

If you want a car that you can walk in and buy parts for, get a B44.3. Keep in mind you will be walking in and buying parts frequently with that car.
Uhm, I wouldn't totally agree....other then the alum shock caps you can usually find most parts in a half decently stocked hobby shop. If the shop waits till they 0 of an item to restock then that is poor inventory management on their part. There were a couple pieces here and there on b/o but all manufacturers were feeling the same blow at the height of the port workers strike.

You should have a spare shock shaft or two. You will also need the plastic shock parts Kit.

The tower is not a necessity. Haven't seen one break personally yet, and we have lots of d413's around here taking some nasty spills. But it is handy to have in case.

You will want the hinge pin mounting screws as they can tend to bend. The arms are fine.

A spare spur gear is a good idea too. Only because many coming to the d413 haven't had experience with the type of motor mount setup amd have had issues setting gear mesh stripping the spur.

Other then those couple things the buggy is tough.

Having had a b44.3 it had a weak spot in the front arms but other then that which is corrected by rpm arms. its just as durable as the d413 is. I prefer the way my HB drives over my 44.3 tho. just my opinion
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:36 AM   #9152
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Ok just finished the build,have the zx6,22.4 the b44.3 in my 4wd garage and the d413 is in a class of its own.If your thinking about getting one just do it, anyway that's all i have to say.

Last edited by buster44; 05-14-2015 at 07:20 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:46 AM   #9153
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Make sure you have the correct diff for the front and rear in place. If I remember correctly the there is a height or length difference between front diff and rear diff.

Here's my front sitting flat on table
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:17 AM   #9154
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I'm curious about the "C" rear shock mount and using the lower pin hole on the rear hubs. Is anyone running this setup? What is the intended purpose, and was the difference noticeable?
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:38 AM   #9155
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Ok just finished the build the front 75mm drives seem to just sit in the diff thingez up on the stand and when down on the ground,( tires fitted ) they are in just a little more seem's to be to far out.Is this about right or do I have a problem.This is my 4th 4wd build B44.3,22.4,KYOSHOZX6 AND THIS. Have not seen this before any help would be appreciated.

OR DO I GO TO THE FIRST PAGE.
Like snwchris pointed out, your rear diff is in the front gearbox and your front diff is in the rear gearbox.

Even though it is a question I have seen many people have, the answer is not in the first post. Nor is the answer to the "My car runs backwards" question in the first post either. I'll PM Jakesterama and see if we can get an update.

Instead of asking "Is my question answered in the first post?", just look at the first post.

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I'm curious about the "C" rear shock mount and using the lower pin hole on the rear hubs. Is anyone running this setup? What is the intended purpose, and was the difference noticeable?
The C rear tower has nothing to do with the lower hole on the hubs. The C tower is supposed to be used when you use the inner hole on the a-arm, because the inner hole is not in line with the hinge pins. Rather it is lower, which creates a gull wing arm. Therefore, a different tower is required, with holes that move the shock down to keep shock lengths the same. If you didn't use the C tower with the inner holes, it will lower the ride height, so when you reset the ride height, the shocks will be further extended, thus having less droop. Moving the shock in on the arm changes the leverage the tire has over the shock, making the shock feel softer.

Moving to the lower hole in the hubs will also lower the rear ride height, which again after you reset the rear ride height you will have less droop in the rear. It will also change the roll center, and the driveshaft plunge, so there is a lot going on for such a simple change. I haven't got a chance to try that adjustment, so I can't tell you first hand what it is going to do to the handling of the car, but I can at least explain what it changes about the geometry.

Proper ride height is very important, and there are many different changes you can make that can effect ride height. Because of this, it is important to check the ride height after you make adjustments. That is if you want to be consistent, and be able to actually feel what an adjustment does.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:00 AM   #9156
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Working on switching my indoor carpet setup over to outdoor. Looking for setup sheets for outdoor fast hard packed medium to low grip. Thanks.
I race on a low to medium grip hard packed outdoor track. Here is some videos of the recent state titles http://livestream.com/accounts/13070...0offroadstates. I have had very good luck with the Ty Tessmann 2014 Hotrod Shootout setup available here http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...out2014071820/, with the exception of running plastic arm plates front and rear for more flex and hence more grip, and 35wt TLR oil in the rear (also run TLR oil in the front). Every part of this setup is crucial, as everything works together. For example, you can't just use the shock oil and piston combination without the correct shock mounting locations. The tyres we use are AKA soft rebars for 4wd buggy front and rear and for 2wd buggy rear, and AKA soft 3-rib for 2wd front, with AKA red closed cell inserts all round in both classes. During the night when it is colder we find AKA soft impacts work better. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:00 AM   #9157
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Thanks for the clear and concise post.
The lower hole on the rear hub
1. Reduces droop
2. Alters the driveshaft plunge
3. Changes roll center

I may experiment with this on my next practice day to see if there are any benefits on a high grip technical track.
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:00 PM   #9158
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Ok so has anyone ever ran an rx8 gen 2 with a 8.5 motor in one of these? I have an old gtb novak ESC that just wont die, but i'm thinking it might not survive long under the stress of 4wd. I do have the rx8 gen 2 but it's a really tight fit, any suggestions? I'm trying to run this thing without making another purchase...
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:53 PM   #9159
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Originally Posted by SeanKewley View Post
Thanks for the clear and concise post.
The lower hole on the rear hub
1. Reduces droop
2. Alters the driveshaft plunge
3. Changes roll center

I may experiment with this on my next practice day to see if there are any benefits on a high grip technical track.
Thanks
Is your car doing something you don't like, or do you just want to see how that adjustment changes the car?

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Originally Posted by claytrackstar View Post
Ok so has anyone ever ran an rx8 gen 2 with a 8.5 motor in one of these? I have an old gtb novak ESC that just wont die, but i'm thinking it might not survive long under the stress of 4wd. I do have the rx8 gen 2 but it's a really tight fit, any suggestions? I'm trying to run this thing without making another purchase...
Will the RX8 fit under the body? If it fits it would work, but it may throw off the balance of the car. Novak has a trade in program so you could probably get a new 1/10th Novak ESC for a good deal. Or you could probably find someone in the for sale/trade section that would trade a nice 1/10th scale ESC for that RX8.

The right components are key to on track performance. I myself wouldn't chance throwing off the way my car performs by running an ESC not design for the type of car I'm running.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:33 PM   #9160
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar View Post
Ok so has anyone ever ran an rx8 gen 2 with a 8.5 motor in one of these? I have an old gtb novak ESC that just wont die, but i'm thinking it might not survive long under the stress of 4wd. I do have the rx8 gen 2 but it's a really tight fit, any suggestions? I'm trying to run this thing without making another purchase...
The RX8 is overkill... but should work fine if you can fit it in. As far as balance, don't even worry about it... the plastic case RX8 is not much heavier than a full aluminum case 1/10th scale ESC and cap. RX8 listed as 76.5 grams, the Viper VTX10R BE (which I run) is listed as 75 grams = no difference.
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Old 05-15-2015, 04:13 AM   #9161
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Make sure you have the correct diff for the front and rear in place. If I remember correctly the there is a height or length difference between front diff and rear diff.

Here's my front sitting flat on table
Ok thanks that's about right looked a little out up on the stand checked the back and rear diffs and they are in the right order so thanks for your help was a little worried i might be told to go to the first page.One more question with the steering crank is it normal for the main arm to be a little bit loose where the flange bushings are.Out where i am i don't have anybody around me close to talk to about these things usually figure it out myself so your help is fantastic.I do have a big track though as I have a big place we are very lucky.
There are some rc racers about an hours drive away and they are starting up a new club and the council down there way gave them some land just happens to be about half way between us.They are going to host some sanctioned races so the track should be of a good standard probably be up and running buy Christmas.

Must admit I have been following this tread for a little while and you seem on the most part to be a fantastic helpful bunch of rc addicts so thanks.

Last edited by buster44; 05-15-2015 at 04:34 AM. Reason: add to
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:08 AM   #9162
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Yea there is some steering slop if that what your talking about, it doesn't bother me and haven't noticed any effects during racing. I think if you search Youtube for D413 slop or steering issue, you might see a couple videos... let us know if that's what you mean
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:42 AM   #9163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Is your car doing something you don't like, or do you just want to see how that adjustment changes the car?

.
My setup is getting closer to being dialed, but there is more room for improvement. I'm getting some rear wheel lift in high speed sweepers and thought I might see what the hub hole change does. I'm swapping shock Pistons and oil first to test that during my next practice session.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:34 AM   #9164
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Originally Posted by SeanKewley View Post
My setup is getting closer to being dialed, but there is more room for improvement. I'm getting some rear wheel lift in high speed sweepers and thought I might see what the hub hole change does. I'm swapping shock Pistons and oil first to test that during my next practice session.
Schelle Chassis....

Have you tried moving the rear arm back, so putting washers in front of the rearm arm, to basically add length.

Last edited by snwchris; 05-15-2015 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:18 AM   #9165
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Lifting the inside rear tire isn't necessarily bad. If it results in erratic handling and slower lap times then go after it. Otherwise, it's a sign of one of this cars strengths: aggressive handling. I'm a big proponent of using average lap times and standard deviation to measure the success of a change. If I can't see the need for a change, the results from multiple other racers (in lap times mean and std), or the engineering reasoning behind it (engineer by trade) I won't spend money on hop-ups very easily. Just my $0.02....
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