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Old 03-10-2015, 08:54 AM   #8326
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Tower are releasing the back order D413 but still no alum shock caps.
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:31 AM   #8327
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Originally Posted by bladeys View Post
Tower are releasing the back order D413 but still no alum shock caps.
Better off going through your LHS if they can get HB. I have had my caps for a week or two now.
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:42 AM   #8328
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Sometimes I wonder if ppl actually read the posts.
Since your post follows mine should I assume it's me you mean? If so, what do you think I missed?

Obviously I read most of them since I agreed with the suggestions about leaving out pins or washers.

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Old 03-10-2015, 12:14 PM   #8329
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Got those cheap graphite arm inserts off eBay. Came pretty quick and the fit is perfect:

so hold off on these fellas. second time out with them, the front right insert cracked (was only running them in front). my suggestion would be that if you really want the stiffer inserts, pony up the dough for the HB's.

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Old 03-10-2015, 12:15 PM   #8330
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Torrance please any input?
my spring perches keep coming off!
the cup on the shock end!
To keep the spring perch on the rod end! I ran a q and a Main with both front spring perches off! I was gonna super glue but shouldn't have to
I'll post pics tonight
for my ride height, springs aren't that tight or under compression! Yes springs are broken in! I use the HB Gold front and Yellow rear springs
If I remember correctly my ride height is 20mm F and R
this usually happens on the front when the car takes a hit. up front i use the non-shielded spring perches and on the shock end i trim off the locking tabs so that the perches can rotate. this way when the perches lift even momentarily it can easily find its way back onto the eyelet. with locking tabs it's easier to get the perches dislocated.

for the rear i haven't encountered this problem so i use the shielded perches and leave the locking tabs on the eyelet.
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:34 PM   #8331
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
this usually happens on the front when the car takes a hit. up front i use the non-shielded spring perches and on the shock end i trim off the locking tabs so that the perches can rotate. this way when the perches lift even momentarily it can easily find its way back onto the eyelet. with locking tabs it's easier to get the perches dislocated.

for the rear i haven't encountered this problem so i use the shielded perches and leave the locking tabs on the eyelet.
thanks! yes it's only on front! Never happened until last weekend!
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:59 PM   #8332
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I understand how diffs work. I was telling CaseyD that they can't slip on both sides like a ball diff that is too loose.
I was just adding on to your statement, i should have quoted the prior post. Man there's a lot of touchy people in this thread.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:28 PM   #8333
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I was just adding on to your statement, i should have quoted the prior post. Man there's a lot of touchy people in this thread.
No problem. Didn't mean to create the impression that I was mad at you or anything like that.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:57 AM   #8334
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If you don't use the servo saver do you just use and aluminum horn? I have a losi 22 horn I can use. Do I need to use the losi ball stud or the hot bodies ball stud for the servo link?
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:08 AM   #8335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
Torrance please any input?
my spring perches keep coming off!
the cup on the shock end!
To keep the spring perch on the rod end! I ran a q and a Main with both front spring perches off! I was gonna super glue but shouldn't have to
I'll post pics tonight
for my ride height, springs aren't that tight or under compression! Yes springs are broken in! I use the HB Gold front and Yellow rear springs
If I remember correctly my ride height is 20mm F and R
I had the same issues with my stock cups. I used the guard style and the low style, both fell off. Next step I tried was drilling a small hole in the cup and zip tying the spring to the cup. Worked but annoying to change springs.

I finally just switched to B5 ends and cups and have not had a problem since. And all the slop is removed.

Love the car, has been working great.
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:50 AM   #8336
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Originally Posted by trashedmaxx View Post
I had the same issues with my stock cups. I used the guard style and the low style, both fell off. Next step I tried was drilling a small hole in the cup and zip tying the spring to the cup. Worked but annoying to change springs.

I finally just switched to B5 ends and cups and have not had a problem since. And all the slop is removed.

Love the car, has been working great.
Same here except I went with Kyosho ends and cups since I run an RB6 for my 2wd. Still pop them off but not nearly as frequently.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:05 AM   #8337
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Originally Posted by egobrkr View Post
If you don't use the servo saver do you just use and aluminum horn? I have a losi 22 horn I can use. Do I need to use the losi ball stud or the hot bodies ball stud for the servo link?
Yes, the Losi horn and the HB ball stud reversed
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:28 AM   #8338
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
Yes, the Losi horn and the HB ball stud reversed
I use HB ball caps with HB ball stud. I try to use the kyosho ball caps on the HB
ball stud and its tight..
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Old 03-11-2015, 12:14 PM   #8339
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Why doesn't Exotek make shock caps they make pretty good products and the demand is there?
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Old 03-11-2015, 12:56 PM   #8340
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What are you guys using to mount your esc's? I've tried my usual Kyosho gel mounting tape and servo tape. The Kyosho tape wouldn't stick to the chassis and the servo tape eventually slides my esc forward. Thanks for any advice!
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