R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree31Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-21-2015, 01:28 AM   #7156
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 27
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TORQUE ROD View Post
Just an off topic question here. what is the best replacement for the
original servo saver?
I got the TLR alloy one for $9 or so, it's a good length if you mount the ball stud underneath the horn. Minor annoyance was that it looked like it was tapped for m3 but I think it might be a 4-40, I had to run an m3 tap through it but since you can just put a locknut on the other end it should be fine.
khj94704 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 05:10 AM   #7157
Tech Adept
 
RENOV8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: London Ontario Canada
Posts: 210
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
If you have an old broke CF part, toss it in acetone for a while and see what happens. I am sure the acetone will remove the inserts, just need to see what it it will do to CF.
You don't have to put it IN the acetone. just put some acetone in a bucket then put a can in it and set the part on the can so it's suspended over the acetone. Put a lid on the bucket and let it sit for 24 hours. . It's the acetone fumes that will loosen the glue.
RENOV8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 05:23 AM   #7158
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Middle, TN.
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slotmachine View Post
Pop the cup off and place an empty parts bag or simular plastic over the ball stud and pop the cup back on, tear the rest of the bag off and it tightens up the slop without becoming too tight.
Paul
Thanks. I'll give it a shot and see how it feels.
iScream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 06:19 AM   #7159
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,934
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
You don't have to put it IN the acetone. just put some acetone in a bucket then put a can in it and set the part on the can so it's suspended over the acetone. Put a lid on the bucket and let it sit for 24 hours. . It's the acetone fumes that will loosen the glue.
I tried the vapor thing with tires with no success. Might work with the arms, worth a try
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 06:39 AM   #7160
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 635
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I tried the vapor thing with tires with no success. Might work with the arms, worth a try
If its cold or you don't have a tight seal it won't work as good or takes forever, but the acetone vapors work great, it's the only way I seperate tires. The only thing I don't like is the foams seem to absorbe the vapors and store them enough to actually soak them. Can't reglue them until they dry out.
CaseyD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 07:27 AM   #7161
Tech Adept
 
RENOV8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: London Ontario Canada
Posts: 210
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iScream View Post
Somewhere back in the thread someone mentioned running an SWorks S104 wing so I ordered one. Easy fit and looks about 3 times thicker than the stock wing.
I did the old shoe goo and drywall mesh trick to the back of the stock wing and it's pretty well indistructable. Found this out when I drove the buggy on the track the other night. Having not driven in a couple years, I did put it through quite a torture test. Had at least 5 or 6 crashes where I thought I was done for the night, but came out without a scratch. It seemed pretty uncontrollable at the start, but just a quick tip: When calibrating the ESC for the first time and running a 6.5 motor, you may want to adjust the setting of 150% throttle before you throw it on the track LOL. Dialed it back to 75% and it was perfect
RENOV8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 07:37 AM   #7162
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,934
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

I have my 6.5 dialed back to 80 from 100%. I increase and lower the power as needed based on the current layout. The 6.5 does heat up my packs though. Such a current monster
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 08:38 AM   #7163
Tech Adept
 
RENOV8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: London Ontario Canada
Posts: 210
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I have my 6.5 dialed back to 80 from 100%. I increase and lower the power as needed based on the current layout. The 6.5 does heat up my packs though. Such a current monster
Always a fine line to find the right settings. At 100% I can clear the double. At 75% I can't, but the car is so much more in control.
RENOV8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 08:43 AM   #7164
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,934
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Sometimes, not clearing the jump is a better line. We had a rythm section that I could motor into and out of. But it was too inconsistent for me to do every lap. So, I took a safer line for an overall faster run. Then practice the "faster" line during practice until I can do it consistently. Just because there is a big quad, does not mean you need to do it. Unless you can do it every lap.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 09:29 AM   #7165
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Middle, TN.
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
I did the old shoe goo and drywall mesh trick to the back of the stock wing and it's pretty well indistructable. Found this out when I drove the buggy on the track the other night. Having not driven in a couple years, I did put it through quite a torture test. Had at least 5 or 6 crashes where I thought I was done for the night, but came out without a scratch. It seemed pretty uncontrollable at the start, but just a quick tip: When calibrating the ESC for the first time and running a 6.5 motor, you may want to adjust the setting of 150% throttle before you throw it on the track LOL. Dialed it back to 75% and it was perfect
I'm sure the shoe goo would make the wing strong. I just used some to glue my 3 main body sections together last night. I'm probably going to stick with the S104 wing though. It costs the same as a new stock wing, is much thicker, and I like the way it looks better than the clear.
Attached Thumbnails
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-d413_1.jpg   Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-d413_2.jpg  
iScream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 09:33 AM   #7166
Tech Regular
 
kdeleon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 429
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

For those waiting on the aluminum shock caps, seems like we are going to have to wait a little longer. I saw that Tower just move the date from late January to mid February. Oh well. Luckily I'm ok with the stock ones but want to give the aluminum ones a try.
kdeleon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 09:59 AM   #7167
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Middle, TN.
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I'm actually thinking about switching to an 8.5 or maybe even 9.5 now. When I was out there Sunday there wasn't a single section of the track where I was really able to use the 6.5. Heck I was getting 20 minutes out of a 4600mah shorty pack running at close to race pace. The motor was hot but I could leave my hand on it. I didn't even have the fan on my Tekin RSX and it was just warm.

On the one long straight you come off a table top so maybe 12 feet of the 80 are gone before you can get on the throttle. You can probably be on the gas for 50 feet or so before braking for a fairly tight 90 degree turn at the end.

I like the track and think it's fun but the 6.5 just seems like a waste out there. Most of the time I was only using the first third of the throttle. For the race this coming Sunday I'm going to dial in some throttle expo and see how that feels then decide if I want to change the motor.

My LHS created the track and sold me the 6.5 when I asked what motor to run. But that was before they knew much more than the overall dimensions of 50' X 80' so it's not really their fault.
iScream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 10:25 AM   #7168
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 244
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iScream View Post
I'm actually thinking about switching to an 8.5 or maybe even 9.5 now. When I was out there Sunday there wasn't a single section of the track where I was really able to use the 6.5. Heck I was getting 20 minutes out of a 4600mah shorty pack running at close to race pace. The motor was hot but I could leave my hand on it. I didn't even have the fan on my Tekin RSX and it was just warm.

On the one long straight you come off a table top so maybe 12 feet of the 80 are gone before you can get on the throttle. You can probably be on the gas for 50 feet or so before braking for a fairly tight 90 degree turn at the end.

I like the track and think it's fun but the 6.5 just seems like a waste out there. Most of the time I was only using the first third of the throttle. For the race this coming Sunday I'm going to dial in some throttle expo and see how that feels then decide if I want to change the motor.

My LHS created the track and sold me the 6.5 when I asked what motor to run. But that was before they knew much more than the overall dimensions of 50' X 80' so it's not really their fault.
A wise man once told me use what you need not what you have.

I can't tell you how many times I've seen people chasing tires looking for traction when the problem was all in their finger.
__________________
www.beachrc.com
phillypete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 10:44 AM   #7169
ISH
Tech Adept
 
ISH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: So Cal
Posts: 104
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by iScream View Post
Has anyone tried replacing the ball cups on the suspension links to remove slop? Or does anyone know a trick for tightening up the fit of the cups on the balls?

I think I'm going to remove the servo saver so it should be easy to find something less sloppy there but I'm not so sure about the camber and steering links.

I already have the RCShox ackerman bar installed but I really want to get some more slop out of it. Whether it makes a difference on the track or not it will make me feel better about the buggy.

-Chris
i swapped out all the ball studs and ball cups for AE B5. they are great and since i run a B5M having spares is never an issue. i did however have to swap right and left steering cups to opposite sides due to the wheels rubbing at full steering. i will post some pictures when I'm allowed.
ISH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2015, 11:04 AM   #7170
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 93
Default

Hi guys. Bevel, conical gear grease, can you recommend something ? Thanks
ColourGhost is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:27 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net