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Old 01-17-2015, 06:50 PM   #7096
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Originally Posted by DJG24 View Post
Pretty much the only thing I have seen break was the front shock tower mount. That being said, most people who broke the one that came with the kit replaced it and have not broken one since. Not sure if the original was brittle or just coincedence.
Interesting, hopefully that is the case. Your post caught my attention by the way you described the tower mount, that's exactly what I was saying.
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Old 01-17-2015, 07:41 PM   #7097
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
Maybe it's a coincidence, but I always seem to run better with it high. So, I would say yes.
lol, thought maybe I was the only one. The higher wing definitely helps control flight manners, I found with the low wing it really liked to point itself downward..

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Finally done with the car!!! Hope to run next weekend.
I would like to see that also..New layout is a lot of fun, come on out and lets get that thing dirty...
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:46 PM   #7098
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Default 4+ month race report

Hi guys, I thought I might post a race report on the car after having owned it for over 4 months now. This info might be useful if you just got the car and trying to get it dialed in. I have tried a lot of things and have had a lot of success with the car to the point where I've had a few wins and am usually in top 3 or 4 in the A. (feel free to check LiveRC for my tuesday/friday night results) I am the only (regular) D413 at my club. My track is Trackside Hobbies , medium to high bite, smooth clay. For me, here are the top things that made a huge difference to the car. I run the 13.5 wheeler class which is a huge class here and is extremely competitive. Took me a while to get this car to the top, so I thought id just share my findings.

Parts that break: I have had only one part break, a front shock shaft. (more of a bend then a break). Otherwise Ive had zero issues.

Shock cap: I've been running the stop shock cap, zero issues, they have never popped off.

Setup (again these were the things that made a HUGE difference):

Overall my setup is based on Drew Mollers Chico setup because Outback Raceway is very similar to my track in terms of layout and surface.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...ico2014071113/
When I first got the car, I used the Tessman Roar Nats setup. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...coa2014081914/ which was a good starting point.
The tessman setup is easier to drive the Drew's but Drew's setup steers more.

1. Running gold front and black rear swaybar has been very good for this car. I use to run no front swaybar when I was having steering issues but running the copper in the front made the car much flatter, still had steering but smoothed it out making the more consistent through chicanes and high speed sweepers. also it is absolutely critical that the sway-bars have a little play/slop in them.

2. Running a straight servo horn instead of the included servo saver (I run a plastic tlr servo horn). The servo saver made the steering so slugglish. I wish this was the first thing I changed when I was fighting steering issues early on.

3. Droop is a big deal on this car. Front, I run droop to the top line on the shock shaft. Rear, I run it a turn or 2 out from the top. I've seen a few guys show up with D413s and the first thing I notice is that people dont set the droop right on this car. Its hard to miss those little lines on the shaft or know what they are for.

4. Ride height is a big deal on this car. When the track is super high bite, I have run as low as 19mm. Im at about 20-21mm when the bite goes down . If your car is traction rolling, trying lowering the rideheight. The car steers just as well with the lower rideheight but feels much more stable and less tippy when the traction is very high.

5. No shims on the steering rack. If for some reason you want a little more steering out of the car and want a quick change between races, remove the shim from the steering rack (bumpsteer adjustment)

6. ruuning 7 100k 3 made the car have tons of on-power steering, but the car pushes a little off power. I am now at 10 100 7, this made the car very easy to drive without compromising too much on off and on power steer. If you want a bit more on-power than that, try 10 100 5 or even 10 100 3.

7. Tires are a HUGE deal. If you are having problems, it is critically important that you find the right tire for your surface FIRST before trying any setup changes. I have tried PL electrons and Ions , as well as Dirtwebs and AKA typos. I cant stress this enough: no matter how the surface changes, the typos have been DIALED on this car. When its high-bite, running more worn out typos feel much better. When the track gets looser, a fresh set is DIALED. I usually keep a well worn set (almost slicks) and a fresh set in my pit at all times. The WORST tire on this car for me was the Dirtwebs, they were absolutely terrible , made the car push so bad I thought there was something wrong with my steering servo.

8. Springs and shocks: I run HB Gold (F) and HB Yellow (R). Pistons: RCShox 1.6f 1.7r. http://www.rcshox.com/hotbodies/ I'd say these two things are a must have for the car as far as "hop-ups". The car feels much more planted and plush, yet also feels aggressive and lands the jumps without bottoming out. As far as oils, I run 30,30 F/R (Associated). I tried 35/30 but I fealt it made the car steer just slightly too much and made the rear step out randomly on sharp turns.

Again im not Pro and I have zero sponsors, just a club racer trying to get better and this car inspires confidence in my driving and with the above changes, the car is very good. I would suggest doing all of the above making one change at a time.

Hope you found this helpful.
- Anupam

Last edited by Anupam Das; 01-18-2015 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:13 PM   #7099
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Originally Posted by Anupam Das View Post
Hi guys, I thought I might post a race report on the car after having owned it for over 4 months now. This info might be useful if you just got the car and trying to get it dialed in. I have tried a lot of things and have had a lot of success with the car to the point where I've had a few wins and am usually in top 3 or 4 in the A. (feel free to check LiveRC for my tuesday/friday night results) I am the only (regular) D413 at my club. My track is Trackside Hobbies , medium to high bite, smooth clay. For me, here are the top things that made a huge difference to the car. I run the 13.5 wheeler class which is a huge class here and is extremely competitive. Took me a while to get this car to the top, so I thought id just share my findings.

Parts that break: I have had only one part break, a front shock shaft. (more of a bend then a break). Otherwise Ive had zero issues.

Shock cap: I've been running the stop shock cap, zero issues, they have never popped off.

Setup (again these were the things that made a HUGE difference):
1. Running gold front and black rear swaybar has been very good for this car. I use to run no front swaybar when I was having steering issues but running the copper in the front made the car much flatter, still had steering but smoothed it out making the more consistent through chicanes and high speed sweepers. also it is absolutely critical that the sway-bars have a little play/slop in them.

2. Running a straight servo horn instead of the included servo saver (I run a plastic tlr servo horn). The servo saver made the steering so slugglish. I wish this was the first thing I changed when I was fighting steering issues early on.

3. Droop is a big deal on this car. Front, I run droop to the top line on the shock shaft. Rear, I run it a turn or 2 out from the top. I've seen a few guys show up with D413s and the first thing I notice is that people dont set the droop right on this car. Its hard to miss those little lines on the shaft or know what they are for.

4. Ride height is a big deal on this car. When the track is super high bite, I have run as low as 19mm. Im at about 20-21mm when the bite goes down . If your car is traction rolling, trying lowering the rideheight. The car steers just as well with the lower rideheight but feels much more stable and less tippy when the traction is very high.

5. No shims on the steering rack. If for some reason you want a little more steering out of the car and want a quick change between races, remove the shim from the steering rack (bumpsteer adjustment)

6. ruuning 3 100k 7 made the car have tons of on-power steering, but the car pushes a little off power. I am now at 7 100 10, this made the car very easy to drive without compromising too much on off and on power steer. If you want a bit more on-power than that, try 5 100 10 or even 3 100 10.

7. Tires are a HUGE deal. I have tried PL electrons and Ions , as well as Dirtwebs and AKA typos. I cant stress this enough: no matter how the surface changes, the typos have been DIALED on this car. When its high-bite, running more worn out typos feel much better. When the track gets looser, a fresh set is DIALED. I usually keep a well worn set (almost slicks) and a fresh set in my pit at all times. The WORST tire on this car for me was the Dirtwebs, they were absolutely terrible , made the car push so bad I thought there was something wrong with my steering servo.

8. Springs and shocks: I run HB Gold (F) and HB Yellow (R). Pistons: RCShox 1.6f 1.7r. http://www.rcshox.com/hotbodies/ I'd say these two things are a must have for the car as far as "hop-ups". The car feels much more planted and plush, yet also feels aggressive and lands the jumps without bottoming out.

Again im not Pro and I have zero sponsors, just a club racer trying to get better and this car inspires confidence in my driving and with the above changes, the car is very good. I would suggest doing all of the above making one change at a time.

Hope you found this helpful.
- Anupam
Any setup you're base off of? What shock oil? I need to get back up to Trackside. I came up one Friday, but didn't know 13.5 was so big. I was running mod, and didn't have enough to to make a class.
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:43 PM   #7100
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Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
Any setup you're base off of? What shock oil? I need to get back up to Trackside. I came up one Friday, but didn't know 13.5 was so big. I was running mod, and didn't have enough to to make a class.
Made an edit to my original post with that info. I race there every friday night. If you need any help feel free to find me!
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:49 AM   #7101
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great post Anupam Das. that is all the info ive been looking for . hope to get up to practice next weekend . ive broke both front shock shafts and 1 eyelet any suggestions would be great
ran at leisure hours ions front dirt webbes rear .and at racemrc panther rears ion fronts.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:35 AM   #7102
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Has anyone tried associated shocks on their D413?
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:37 AM   #7103
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Has anyone tried associated shocks on their D413?
I did. The only ones that fit are the sc10 big bores with some mod needed.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:39 AM   #7104
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I did. The only ones that fit are the sc10 big bores with some mod needed.
So B5 or B44 shocks don't work?
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:43 AM   #7105
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So B5 or B44 shocks don't work?
No sir. They are not long enough.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:57 AM   #7106
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
Maybe it's a coincidence, but I always seem to run better with it high. So, I would say yes.
I agree, High wing seems more stable and jump control is easier.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:09 AM   #7107
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Hi everyone, i have been reading this thread for a while. I have been running 1/8 nitro for many years, but a buddy of mine talked me into 10th scale few months ago. I don't post much, but I ran my d413 on thursday at IERC and have to say THIS THING IS AWSOME, best car I've ever driven. I could not be happier. thanks for all your in put and help. Lucky E....
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:27 PM   #7108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anupam Das View Post
Hi guys, I thought I might post a race report on the car after having owned it for over 4 months now. This info might be useful if you just got the car and trying to get it dialed in. I have tried a lot of things and have had a lot of success with the car to the point where I've had a few wins and am usually in top 3 or 4 in the A. (feel free to check LiveRC for my tuesday/friday night results) I am the only (regular) D413 at my club. My track is Trackside Hobbies , medium to high bite, smooth clay. For me, here are the top things that made a huge difference to the car. I run the 13.5 wheeler class which is a huge class here and is extremely competitive. Took me a while to get this car to the top, so I thought id just share my findings.

Parts that break: I have had only one part break, a front shock shaft. (more of a bend then a break). Otherwise Ive had zero issues.

Shock cap: I've been running the stop shock cap, zero issues, they have never popped off.

Setup (again these were the things that made a HUGE difference):

Overall my setup is based on Drew Mollers Chico setup because Outback Raceway is very similar to my track in terms of layout and surface.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...ico2014071113/
When I first got the car, I used the Tessman Roar Nats setup. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...coa2014081914/ which was a good starting point.
The tessman setup is easier to drive the Drew's but Drew's setup steers more.

1. Running gold front and black rear swaybar has been very good for this car. I use to run no front swaybar when I was having steering issues but running the copper in the front made the car much flatter, still had steering but smoothed it out making the more consistent through chicanes and high speed sweepers. also it is absolutely critical that the sway-bars have a little play/slop in them.

2. Running a straight servo horn instead of the included servo saver (I run a plastic tlr servo horn). The servo saver made the steering so slugglish. I wish this was the first thing I changed when I was fighting steering issues early on.

3. Droop is a big deal on this car. Front, I run droop to the top line on the shock shaft. Rear, I run it a turn or 2 out from the top. I've seen a few guys show up with D413s and the first thing I notice is that people dont set the droop right on this car. Its hard to miss those little lines on the shaft or know what they are for.

4. Ride height is a big deal on this car. When the track is super high bite, I have run as low as 19mm. Im at about 20-21mm when the bite goes down . If your car is traction rolling, trying lowering the rideheight. The car steers just as well with the lower rideheight but feels much more stable and less tippy when the traction is very high.

5. No shims on the steering rack. If for some reason you want a little more steering out of the car and want a quick change between races, remove the shim from the steering rack (bumpsteer adjustment)

6. ruuning 7 100k 3 made the car have tons of on-power steering, but the car pushes a little off power. I am now at 10 100 7, this made the car very easy to drive without compromising too much on off and on power steer. If you want a bit more on-power than that, try 10 100 5 or even 10 100 3.

7. Tires are a HUGE deal. If you are having problems, it is critically important that you find the right tire for your surface FIRST before trying any setup changes. I have tried PL electrons and Ions , as well as Dirtwebs and AKA typos. I cant stress this enough: no matter how the surface changes, the typos have been DIALED on this car. When its high-bite, running more worn out typos feel much better. When the track gets looser, a fresh set is DIALED. I usually keep a well worn set (almost slicks) and a fresh set in my pit at all times. The WORST tire on this car for me was the Dirtwebs, they were absolutely terrible , made the car push so bad I thought there was something wrong with my steering servo.

8. Springs and shocks: I run HB Gold (F) and HB Yellow (R). Pistons: RCShox 1.6f 1.7r. http://www.rcshox.com/hotbodies/ I'd say these two things are a must have for the car as far as "hop-ups". The car feels much more planted and plush, yet also feels aggressive and lands the jumps without bottoming out. As far as oils, I run 30,30 F/R (Associated). I tried 35/30 but I fealt it made the car steer just slightly too much and made the rear step out randomly on sharp turns.

Again im not Pro and I have zero sponsors, just a club racer trying to get better and this car inspires confidence in my driving and with the above changes, the car is very good. I would suggest doing all of the above making one change at a time.

Hope you found this helpful.
- Anupam
I would think 10 100 7 would push even more off power then 7 100 3?
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:00 PM   #7109
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
I would think 10 100 7 would push even more off power then 7 100 3?
Great post Das....but I have to agree with Vinny...lighter will give you more turn in/off power steering...
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:19 PM   #7110
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Ran your setup at Rockford tonight. You are correct. Totally dialed. Steering is so reactive I had to slow my servo down. Once I did that it was on rails. By far the best this car has ever been for me. Thanks for the tip.
Glad it was working for you.
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