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Old 01-14-2015, 06:56 AM   #7051
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Has anyone found an alternative aluminum servo horn?

It appears the hex on the stock servo saver stripped out while I was setting EPA (yeah I know!!!)

Has anyone tried running a standard servo horn and put the ball stud facing the front of the car?
Here you go, this is what you are after: https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/67169

Just be careful as running without the servo saver you will run the risk of premature damage to the servo.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:06 AM   #7052
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Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
Has anyone found an alternative aluminum servo horn?

It appears the hex on the stock servo saver stripped out while I was setting EPA (yeah I know!!!)

Has anyone tried running a standard servo horn and put the ball stud facing the front of the car?
I am using this... http://www.amain.com/xray-x-stiff-co...er-set/p219462
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:45 AM   #7053
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Has anyone try adding weight to the carbon chassi
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:33 AM   #7054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
Has anyone found an alternative aluminum servo horn?

It appears the hex on the stock servo saver stripped out while I was setting EPA (yeah I know!!!)

Has anyone tried running a standard servo horn and put the ball stud facing the front of the car?
Like others have replied, TLR or HPI but with the ball facing the rear of the truck. This eliminates the goofy angle of the linkage when using the servo saver. As for being careful when not using a servo saver I don't think that is nearly as much of an issue in this day and age. Servos are much stronger and high quality that they used to be.

BTW I use the HPI horn because it's all shiny and gold
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:53 AM   #7055
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
Like others have replied, TLR or HPI but with the ball facing the rear of the truck. This eliminates the goofy angle of the linkage when using the servo saver. As for being careful when not using a servo saver I don't think that is nearly as much of an issue in this day and age. Servos are much stronger and high quality that they used to be.

BTW I use the HPI horn because it's all shiny and gold
+1..

I did try though the TLR horn and the threads are different for the stock ball stud..so the ball stud didn't screw into the horn...I also had a HPI laying around and the stock ball stud went right in.

Plus it does look purdy...

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Old 01-14-2015, 09:57 AM   #7056
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As for being careful when not using a servo saver I don't think that is nearly as much of an issue in this day and age. Servos are much stronger and high quality that they used to be.

This is true. I recently got back into the hobby and was scared that i had no servo saver on my B5M lol. with titanium gears and what not in servos its not as much of an issue.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:59 AM   #7057
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My LHS didn't have the HPI in stock and they said delivery was "Mid January". with the stock servo saver on their it was in drivable. I'm not exactly sure how i did it but the hex was ever so slighly mangled at the corners of the hex impression. On a wheel hub no big deal, but on a servo saver a fraction of a mm is a deal breaker. When I turned left the steering would not re-center.

Needless to say those first couple laps were a durability test until I figured out what was going on!

Until the HPI horn arrives I've put s Racer's Edge aluminum horn on that I had laying around. The angle on the ball cup is a little troubling, but I don't foresee it being an issue.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:41 PM   #7058
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I put the Nats setup on this car with the only changes being running the wing in the high position and the shock oil of the Reedy Setup. Dialed.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:36 PM   #7059
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I put the Nats setup on this car with the only changes being running the wing in the high position and the shock oil of the Reedy Setup. Dialed.
What oils are you running
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:45 PM   #7060
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I put the Nats setup on this car with the only changes being running the wing in the high position and the shock oil of the Reedy Setup. Dialed.
Was that you running the all yellow D413 at Leisure Hours on Sunday?
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:24 PM   #7061
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Was that you running the all yellow D413 at Leisure Hours on Sunday?
Ya, that was him in the fast puke yellow.
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:19 PM   #7062
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I was actually watching that buggy Sunday and was thinking it looked good. I may need to try that setup. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:21 PM   #7063
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Yep, that's my puke yellow car. Come on by and say hi any time.

That really is the most awful color on a RC car ever. Gotta change that pretty soon!

The oils I'm using are Associated 37.5 front with 2X1.6 and 32.5 rear with 2X1.7. The shock position of the Nats setup was great and I moved the rear tower in one hole as the track got more slippery and that seems to help it keep turning. The high wing also seemed to make it more stable with our big, fast track.

On a side note, I had an original B44 a long time ago and hated every second of it. Haven't had a wheeler since then. But this car is actually fun and I'm glad I gave 4wd another chance.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:43 AM   #7064
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I can guarantee I will be flamed for this but has anyone tried a 550 motor in this car? I read way back in this thread that the idea was thrown around but I don't believe it came to a definitive answer. I currently run a 10.5t 540 motor. However it does run somewhat warm and it lacks the power that my fellow racers have running 5.5t motors. Rather than going out and buying a new motor, I wanted to try running my old 4x4 sct motor. I know this sounds ridiculous but upon further inspection, my hobbywing 3656 sd motor is only a tad longer than the 540 that is currently in my car. I know that it could potentially be hard on the drivetrain but if I turn it down so it is equivalent to the other guy's 5.5t motors wouldn't it be fine? I understand this is not roar legal but I don't race at roar events. I am just trying to increase performance without harming my wallet. Thanks for any opinions
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:51 AM   #7065
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can you get a 48 pitch pinion on that motor?
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