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Old 01-06-2015, 08:12 AM   #6931
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A small dab of shoo goo on the hex cross pins works well on this car. No need for clamping hexes.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:22 AM   #6932
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i used some blue locktite. worked for me as well
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #6933
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you have to loosen it significantly.
ugh!!!
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:38 AM   #6934
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Originally Posted by big greg View Post
Careful the rc shox Ackerman pushes the. Ball stud forward creating more Ackerman then stock position, Making it more twitchy
No it does not unless you add more shims under the ball studs, if you install with no washers it is further back than stock. This is why there is a counterbore under the ball stud.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:39 AM   #6935
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
I don't think this is right. Moving forward means less ackermann and more aggressive steering. Moving it backwards means more ackermann and less aggressive steering.

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-ackermann/
I agree with this
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:43 AM   #6936
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Originally Posted by kdeleon View Post
I don't think this is right. Moving forward means less ackermann and more aggressive steering. Moving it backwards means more ackermann and less aggressive steering.

Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-ackermann/
yes, that is what the manuals say. It just not been what I feel on the track. Whenever, I move the stud back on the inside, my car gets more aggressive. And when I move it forward it pushes more. I have stopped reading those charts, because it is a give and take. And will make your head hurt after a while. I just try things and note how they make my car feel.

Anyway, I use the RCshox rack and did not notice any negative effects to my handling. The ackerman "looked" the same as the Tessman setup, so I did not really worry about it. The RcShox pistons and rack have worked really well. I am very happy with them.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:46 AM   #6937
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Default schelle chassis

so i know 1 guy on here has driven the buggy with the chassis. has anyone else tried with the chassis?

I have the Avid chassis and didnt like it all. Just wondering what everyone's take is
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:46 AM   #6938
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
yes, that is what the manuals say. It just not been what I feel on the track. Whenever, I move the stud back on the inside, my car gets more aggressive. And when I move it forward it pushes more. I have stopped reading those charts, because it is a give and take. And will make your head hurt after a while. I just try things and note how they make my car feel.

Anyway, I use the RCshox rack and did not notice any negative effects to my handling. The ackerman "looked" the same as the Tessman setup, so I did not really worry about it. The RcShox pistons and rack have worked really well. I am very happy with them.

I think its give and take with the settings one give aggressive initial steering and the other aggressive exit steering. It could depend on bumps steer and many other factors. but i do know that on an onroad car forward is aggressive.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:06 AM   #6939
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Originally Posted by skyline1015 View Post
so i know 1 guy on here has driven the buggy with the chassis. has anyone else tried with the chassis?

I have the Avid chassis and didnt like it all. Just wondering what everyone's take is
I run the avid chassis. What dont you like?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:17 AM   #6940
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Originally Posted by Anupam Das View Post
Anyone know whats up with HPI Hotbodies and all the backordered parts. I checked Amain and like 30% of the parts are all back-ordered. Wanted an m3x20 screw, backordered. Front shock shaft: backordered. Steering rack: also backordered
Parts are all shown as "in stock" at Tower Hobbies. BTW I buy all my screws etc. at the local fasteners store.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:22 AM   #6941
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Originally Posted by CarFanatic View Post
So I just finished up my kit. Cut out the rediculous body. Am I right in assuming you have to take apart the shock tower to get the front nose piece on?!!!!!
I can't believe people are comlaining about this! 4 screws and about 2 minutes. And it's not like you have to take it back out every time you remove the body
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:24 AM   #6942
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
No it does not unless you add more shims under the ball studs, if you install with no washers it is further back than stock. This is why there is a counterbore under the ball stud.

Which orientation is the rack designed off of dot forward or rearward?
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:25 AM   #6943
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R View Post
Parts are all shown as "in stock" at Tower Hobbies. BTW I buy all my screws etc. at the local fasteners store.
+1 ordered a bunch of spares from tower on the weekend. Everything I wanted was in stock
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:30 AM   #6944
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So I just finished up my kit. Cut out the rediculous body. Am I right in assuming you have to take apart the shock tower to get the front nose piece on?!!!!!
On mine I'm able to twist and slide the nose cone in place. Its not that difficult.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:59 AM   #6945
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
On mine I'm able to twist and slide the nose cone in place. Its not that difficult.
man I tried.... I could not get it in!
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