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Old 12-17-2014, 08:05 AM   #6586
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Originally Posted by Anupam Das View Post
Guys, thought I'd post a race report here for fun and comparison.

So like many of you i've been trying to get this car to the top of the podium. I run at Trackside Hobbies, here is a video of our current layout https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUubskylxSg.

So today I got the car to the top, but it was just luck in that the illustrious Scotty Ernst who was chasing me and had the faster car made mistakes and I capitalized. Was kinda cool to beat a field of associated and TLR cars with the only HB car in the midwest lol.

I've been trying to get more steering out of this car for WEEKS, and Ty's Nats setup did the trick. The car was MUCH better. If you run on a similar track I would highly recomend it. I tried one change at a time (starting from his reedy race setup transitioning to nats setup), The biggest difference was flattening out the front kickup , shortening up the wheelbase, and adding the front copper swaybar to get back a bit of stability. Car drove much flatter and smoother, gained about 3/10ths or more right there per lap.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...coa2014081914/

Now here is the bad news: The car still does not turn anywhere near as sharp as Scotty's B44.3 , and my friends TLR 22-4.. lol.. the way that thing turns is like cheating. I almost feel like something is broke with my servo.. its that bad. Has anyone been struggling with this car around hairpin turns at low speeds?

I tried thinner oils in front, no-servo saver, stiffer swaybars in rear, no sway bars vs golds in front. Different tires, rideheight.. the works. Just can not get this car to turn. im sort of at a loss. The only thing at this point for me to try is a different servo.

Anyway, Im just kind of at a loss right now , running out of stuff to try. Im kinda thinking im not alone in this problem. Even if you look at TY's setups from his earliest ones to the most recent, you'll see most of the changes he's making is to try to get more steering out of the car. So I feel like maybe there is a fundamental issue here. Any ideas? Car is dialed everywhere else EXCEPT these 180 hairpins. Mabey there is a steering ackerman issue? who knows.. totally clueless.
I'm struggling with the same thing. Watching the other cars rotate nicely through the hairpins, and watching my D413 crawl around them is kinda frustrating. I'm working on it, and will try the setup you linked. I too am running his Reedy setup. I'm running the same servo Ty runs, the Savox SB-2274SG.

I'm local to Race Em in Rockford, and was at Trackside a couple weeks ago. I didn't run the D413 though. There wasn't enough for open wheeler, and I didn't have a 13.5.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:15 AM   #6587
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What servo horn do you need to get rid of the servo saver? Also, what it's the difference between the rear shock tower C and the stock B tower?
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:21 AM   #6588
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An aluminum horn that has the right spline count for your servo, just like a normal application
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #6589
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Originally Posted by bmcallister View Post
Which vrp piston, taper or standard?
The standard piston, the tapered works better on rougher tracks.


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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
What servo horn do you need to get rid of the servo saver? Also, what it's the difference between the rear shock tower C and the stock B tower?

The HB aluminum horn works great in place of the servo saver setup.

The Optional rear towers are tuned to perform best based on whatever bottom rear arm shock hole you run. The A (inline) is optimized for the outside hole on the arm, tower C is for the inside (gullwing) hole on the arm. B which is in the kit is just splitting the difference between the two. it works for both but not really optimized for either
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:40 AM   #6590
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need more steering? try the #3 Ackermann arms (kit comes with #4)

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/112804
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:44 AM   #6591
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
need more steering? try the #3 Ackermann arms (kit comes with #4)

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/112804
Interesting! I was about to recommend trying #5 :-)
I changed from #4 to #5 and I felt the steering got much better for my track (carpet). Can you please explain the differences between the arms?

thanks!
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:48 AM   #6592
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
What servo horn do you need to get rid of the servo saver? Also, what it's the difference between the rear shock tower C and the stock B tower?
the C tower is optimized to work with the inner/lower shock mount hole in the arm. the A tower is optimized for the outer/upper hole. the B splits the difference. if you're always running the inner/lower then the C will work best because it gives you full range of suspension travel and it minimizes the change in droop as you move from one tower hole to the next.

similarly if you run the outer/upper hole the A tower works best. however if you have the A tower and run the inner/lower hole it's gonna mess up the suspension travel, and vice versa if you have the C tower and run the outer/ upper hole. that's where the B tower comes in because it's an all-around fit.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:50 AM   #6593
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By the way, have someone tried to run this car as a 2WD? David Ronnefalk was running his in the 2WD class past weekend and it actually looked pretty good. Well, I don't know how easy it was to drive though, he is one talented driver that makes everything look easy.
I have a spare car and am gonna try it coming weeks. Someone tried it and have any thoughts on setup? I was thinking about turning the FF arm holders upside down to gain more Kick up.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:51 AM   #6594
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Interesting! I was about to recommend trying #5 :-)
I changed from #4 to #5 and I felt the steering got much better for my track (carpet). Can you please explain the differences between the arms?

thanks!
#5 produces more Ackermann so it's more stable on large, fast, sweeping tracks. #3 has less Ackermann which gives the car a more aggressive feel, good for tight twisty tracks with lots of 180s.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:41 AM   #6595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anupam Das View Post
Guys, thought I'd post a race report here for fun and comparison.

So like many of you i've been trying to get this car to the top of the podium. I run at Trackside Hobbies, here is a video of our current layout https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUubskylxSg.

So today I got the car to the top, but it was just luck in that the illustrious Scotty Ernst who was chasing me and had the faster car made mistakes and I capitalized. Was kinda cool to beat a field of associated and TLR cars with the only HB car in the midwest lol.

I've been trying to get more steering out of this car for WEEKS, and Ty's Nats setup did the trick. The car was MUCH better. If you run on a similar track I would highly recomend it. I tried one change at a time (starting from his reedy race setup transitioning to nats setup), The biggest difference was flattening out the front kickup , shortening up the wheelbase, and adding the front copper swaybar to get back a bit of stability. Car drove much flatter and smoother, gained about 3/10ths or more right there per lap.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...coa2014081914/

Now here is the bad news: The car still does not turn anywhere near as sharp as Scotty's B44.3 , and my friends TLR 22-4.. lol.. the way that thing turns is like cheating. I almost feel like something is broke with my servo.. its that bad. Has anyone been struggling with this car around hairpin turns at low speeds?

I tried thinner oils in front, no-servo saver, stiffer swaybars in rear, no sway bars vs golds in front. Different tires, rideheight.. the works. Just can not get this car to turn. im sort of at a loss. The only thing at this point for me to try is a different servo.

Anyway, Im just kind of at a loss right now , running out of stuff to try. Im kinda thinking im not alone in this problem. Even if you look at TY's setups from his earliest ones to the most recent, you'll see most of the changes he's making is to try to get more steering out of the car. So I feel like maybe there is a fundamental issue here. Any ideas? Car is dialed everywhere else EXCEPT these 180 hairpins. Mabey there is a steering ackerman issue? who knows.. totally clueless.
I have run my D413 at Trackside a couple times on the current layout and I had the opposite problem. I have more than enough steering and have been trying to take some rotation out. I run a modified version of the Reedy setup. Recently, I have changed from Dirt Web fronts to Pinstripes. I also just changed from the black rear sway bar to silver (but have yet to try it out). What tires are you running?

Funny as someone else mentioned, my D413 has all the turn in that I need while my 22-4, I can't get it to turn enough.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:46 AM   #6596
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I have run my D413 at Trackside a couple times on the current layout and I had the opposite problem. I have more than enough steering and have been trying to take some rotation out. I run a modified version of the Reedy setup. Recently, I have changed from Dirt Web fronts to Pinstripes. I also just changed from the black rear sway bar to silver (but have yet to try it out). What tires are you running?

Funny as someone else mentioned, my D413 has all the turn in that I need while my 22-4, I can't get it to turn enough.
What have you modified from the Reedy setup?
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:59 AM   #6597
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Originally Posted by Tobiasmart View Post
Interesting! I was about to recommend trying #5 :-)
I changed from #4 to #5 and I felt the steering got much better for my track (carpet). Can you please explain the differences between the arms?

thanks!
I dont think switching to the 3 increases steering it make your steering input quicker, the 5 would make input slower.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:30 AM   #6598
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla View Post
What servo horn do you need to get rid of the servo saver? Also, what it's the difference between the rear shock tower C and the stock B tower?
The HB tall servo horn works the best and had best alignment. I tried others, but didn't work.

HB servo horn, just make sure get the right spline count
http://www.amain.com/hot-bodies-alum...spline/p148908
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:44 AM   #6599
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Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
What have you modified from the Reedy setup?
I'm out of town until tomorrow. My setup sheet is on another computer. I can send it to you when I return. But off the top of my head, I use VRP pistons and my diffs are different (15/100/3). The later is probably the biggest change.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:27 PM   #6600
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So i have two of these coming for Christmas, one for me and the other for my son. Its our first journey into 4wd buggies we both run mod 2wd right now and this was the brand my son wanted. They look like exactly what we are looking for, extremely competitive and tough as nails. My question is what style battery is everyone running and why? I know the new thing is a shorty on one side and motor on the other but why? Whats the reason of getting away from saddles? If putting a mod motor in there why not keep the weight of the saddles?
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