R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree28Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-14-2014, 08:50 PM   #6526
Tech Elite
 
symmetricon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: houston
Posts: 4,641
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
im using the ocrc testing setup but the car is very unstable wants to spin out coming out of corners and seems hard to drive its driving me crazy cant figure it out
I ran mine for the first time this weekend and found the rear end to be a bit squirmy on exit running T's Hotrod setup. I removed the forward arm sweep and dropped from 60k to 30k and the car was unreal.
__________________
XRAY / RCAMERICA
JCONCEPTS
RCSHOX
Mikes Hobby Shop
symmetricon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 08:51 PM   #6527
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
ok, I am going to be "real" with you. I love the d413. It is a tank beyond what ever you can imagine in your mind. Mostly, because it bends instead of breaking, lol. If you are used to the Kyosho fit/finish, I really think you will not like the d413. Just because it will not be what you are used to. The d413 is a very capable car and Ty spanked Tebo at Nats, but most of the hobbist drivers out there that already own a bunch of Kyosho cars, will probably not like this car. If you want a car you can drive hard and carefree not worrying about breaking, then get the HB. If you want what you are already used to get the Kyosho.
Pretty accurate assessment in my opinion. I have all kyosho cars Rb6 /SC6 / RT6 but choose to run the D413.

ZX6 is really nice but there is no comparison in durablity.
__________________
Jason Snyder

Check out my "YouTube" channel
www.youtube.com/shortcourseworld
Jason Snyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:05 PM   #6528
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default diff

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I ran mine for the first time this weekend and found the rear end to be a bit squirmy on exit running T's Hotrod setup. I removed the forward arm sweep and dropped from 60k to 30k and the car was unreal.
what do u think made the biggest difference dropping the center diff fluid? im at 100 now. what are ur front and rear at
DIRT DIGGER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:09 PM   #6529
Tech Adept
 
billdogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Question about building the shocks. I'm used to building Losi shocks, and after I bleed the Losi shocks, I'll pump them and leave them at full length, and they pull back into the body. From how I learned, it was supposed to do this. When I built my HB shocks, they don't do this. They will stay fully extended. Am I doing something wrong, or worrying about nothing?
billdogg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:14 PM   #6530
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,376
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I ran mine for the first time this weekend and found the rear end to be a bit squirmy on exit running T's Hotrod setup. I removed the forward arm sweep and dropped from 60k to 30k and the car was unreal.
I built mine with the Reedy set-up, except for diff fluids. I did go 100k in the center, but wondering why the whole time. What is the purpose of a center diff if we are just going to basically lock it up with molasses? I was able to run my car this weekend and spent most of my time on shock set-up, The car was pretty decent, but I did think the rear end was a bit loose also..
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
Question about building the shocks. I'm used to building Losi shocks, and after I bleed the Losi shocks, I'll pump them and leave them at full length, and they pull back into the body. From how I learned, it was supposed to do this. When I built my HB shocks, they don't do this. They will stay fully extended. Am I doing something wrong, or worrying about nothing?
Are you building with bladders or emulsion?
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:23 PM   #6531
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,376
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Another little tip I rec'd from a Team driver is to Ca glue the alumi servo saver sleeve (if using) to the front of the part it mates to. You dont have to glue the inner sleeve so much as the front hex parts on the splined side. It will eventually wear a little play in those parts and cause constant steering trim adjustments..Pictured and circled are the two pieces that I am speaking of.. BE careful that you don't get Ca buildup behind the hex part, as I did the first time. It will cause a lot of hate and discontent and also cost you the price of a new servo saver set. I glued the 2 pieces after they are assembled (the 2nd time)...
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-hbs112755.jpg

Last edited by flame56mx; 12-14-2014 at 09:56 PM.
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:40 PM   #6532
Tech Adept
 
billdogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Rockford, IL
Posts: 209
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
Are you building with bladders or emulsion?
Emulsion.
billdogg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2014, 09:51 PM   #6533
Tech Champion
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,376
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
Emulsion.
Sounds like you just have a little (more) air in them. Usually from my experience when building emulsion the moment you build them is the only time they have a minimal amount of air in the shock. As time and track use goes by they naturally keep building more and the retraction seems to disappear. I have been switching most of my cars to bladders for the simple reason that they are easier to build consistently, and they have little to no air wanted or needed which makes them last longer before needed rebuilds, just my 2...
flame56mx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 05:11 AM   #6534
Tech Elite
 
symmetricon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: houston
Posts: 4,641
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
what do u think made the biggest difference dropping the center diff fluid? im at 100 now. what are ur front and rear at
Going to a lighter center diff allowed for more off power rotation and more stability on acceleration. To combat the excess low speed steering i removed the .5deg forward arms sweep. The car lacked nothing, it was dare I say perfect. Keep in mind our track conditions may be vary different. I run on a high/medium bite 1/8 red clay track and use mini pins not bar type tires. Its actually most likely considered medium bite for 1/10.

And for anyone speculating if the car is truly a tank, it sure is. Its the damn toughest wheeler ever made, and id bet money on that, and it drive freaking awesome. As much as I hate to say and admit, it kicks my 22-4s ass.
__________________
XRAY / RCAMERICA
JCONCEPTS
RCSHOX
Mikes Hobby Shop
symmetricon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 05:14 AM   #6535
Tech Elite
 
symmetricon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: houston
Posts: 4,641
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flame56mx View Post
I built mine with the Reedy set-up, except for diff fluids. I did go 100k in the center, but wondering why the whole time. What is the purpose of a center diff if we are just going to basically lock it up with molasses? I was able to run my car this weekend and spent most of my time on shock set-up, The car was pretty decent, but I did think the rear end was a bit loose also..

Are you building with bladders or emulsion?
I don't get it either, I could only see 100k working on asphalt type track conditions or carpet.... With 30k my tire wear was symmetrical and still launched out of the corners like a demon...
__________________
XRAY / RCAMERICA
JCONCEPTS
RCSHOX
Mikes Hobby Shop
symmetricon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 05:28 AM   #6536
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cincinnati, Oh
Posts: 772
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Anyone else has slight play in the a arms where they are attached at the diffs? I have slight foreward to rear movement. Using washers kit said to. Like it could use another washer?
__________________
Mugen MBX7R
Mugen MBX7R Eco
Losi 5ive
CarFanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 06:29 AM   #6537
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 244
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Snyder View Post
Pretty accurate assessment in my opinion. I have all kyosho cars Rb6 /SC6 / RT6 but choose to run the D413.

ZX6 is really nice but there is no comparison in durability.
For me 1/10th scale racing is what I do when I can't get out to an 1/8th scale track. Its not something I take super serious. I don't want to be spending a lot of time messing with my 1/10th scale cars. Typically I leave them at the track and only work on them right before a race. I even run gear diffs in both my RB6 and RT6 even though I'm told ball diffs are better for the track just because it is less maint.

I also like that the D413 is more of a direct analog to 1/8th scale racing.
__________________
www.beachrc.com
phillypete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 07:43 AM   #6538
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,850
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phillypete View Post
For me 1/10th scale racing is what I do when I can't get out to an 1/8th scale track. Its not something I take super serious. I don't want to be spending a lot of time messing with my 1/10th scale cars. Typically I leave them at the track and only work on them right before a race. I even run gear diffs in both my RB6 and RT6 even though I'm told ball diffs are better for the track just because it is less maint.

I also like that the D413 is more of a direct analog to 1/8th scale racing.
You will probably like the D413 then. It does drive like a hyper little escale. And super durable.
__________________
Serpent SRX8 electric
Serpent Cobra 811TE-E
Serpent S120LTR 17.5 1/12th and S100LTR Pro-10
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 USGT
Team Serpent America and Desoto Racing
Stealth_RT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 07:49 AM   #6539
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 545
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
im using the ocrc testing setup but the car is very unstable wants to spin out coming out of corners and seems hard to drive its driving me crazy cant figure it out
Simple solution. Use exact reedy setup and check front outdrive to see if rubbing on caster block....done.
uncle everett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 08:26 AM   #6540
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 4,517
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to nv529
Default

Here's what I ran over the weekend at dirt burners which is semi-dry indoor clay/somewhat slick condition.
Attached Thumbnails
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-nick-12-13-2014.jpg  
__________________
Nick Vasquez
Tekin | Reilly Paint | Dirt Burner Racing | RC Clubhouse| Washtenaw RC Raceway | TARCAR | The Track
nv529 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:49 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net