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Old 11-25-2014, 04:59 AM   #6241
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yep, looks like you are racing on sandpaper
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:36 AM   #6242
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Noticed my mounts are a little worn after racing for the first time last week as well. The hangers just seem a hair too low but it hasn't dug in the dirt and grabbed so
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:48 AM   #6243
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Maybe raise your cars up and put some o rings on your shock shafts.
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:11 AM   #6244
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I was running the Reedy setup at 22mm ride height but the springs and pistons are stock at the moment, it was only bottoming out when over shooting and over an intentional bump to keep it low
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:31 AM   #6245
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Can someone explain these arm insert things in depth? Would be much appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:47 AM   #6246
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they stiffen the arms for differet degree of traction and how you want the flex to feel

soft to stiffest.

unglued plastic
glued plastic
unglued carbon
glued carbon.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:50 AM   #6247
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i noticed the grining two. i have a feeling i will have to replace the hangers because of wore down after a while of racing.

and i got me a bag of m2 nuts because i have stripped a couple of them putting them on when making setup changes. wish they would have used m3 nuts here.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:10 AM   #6248
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Has anyone noticed that the front out drive hit the arm inserts when the shock are fully compressed.
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:42 AM   #6249
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Has anyone noticed that the front out drive hit the arm inserts when the shock are fully compressed.
When I compress the arm all the way up, it does not hit the outdrive. I use the middle top shock mount and the outer lower mount. But saying that, I do have marks on my arm from it hitting the outdrive. I think it comes from those less than ideal landings. The arms seems to bend slightly and hit the outdrive.
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:45 AM   #6250
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Too much travel on the shocks? What line is the eyelet screwed up to?
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:06 AM   #6251
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I don't think the line of the eyelet should matter. Your shock should stop when the retaining cup hits the bottom of the shock body. So no matter where your screw it in, top line or bottom line, it would be the same. All eyelet settings should end with the same length with the shock compressed. I read somewhere on one of the TLR threads, if the piston hits the shock cap internally, then that is a bad thing. And I don't think the lowest line gets you to that point. Only an externally limiter would properly restrict the arm from hitting the outdrive.

So probably too much travel on the shocks. But I bet it is also dependent on shock mounting location.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:22 AM   #6252
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Something I do on my 410 is to run Button Head screw close to key areas. For instance, on the front kick up I run Button Head screws and they keep the chassis and suspension hangers from taking as much abuse and enduring more wear than with he countersunk screws. I also run 2 of them in the rear.

I do the same on my PRS1 on both ends and it helps protect parts and prolong my having to dip into the wallet. Another thing I run on ALL my cars are the Durango Shock Bumpers.



Tracks need to stop this artificial surface nonsense and get back to real dirt tracks. Red Clay is the perfect compromise between all out dirt and completely artificial.
It's abrasive to some degree and can become hard packed, but still playable enough that it won't grind parts down to nothing.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:47 AM   #6253
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Sorry, I was talking about the suspension hangers. What the different dots mean and the different sims do.
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:22 PM   #6254
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Sorry, I was talking about the suspension hangers. What the different dots mean and the different sims do.
Set up sheet in the back of the manual tells you all of the suspension hanger settings.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:27 PM   #6255
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Sorry, I was talking about the suspension hangers. What the different dots mean and the different sims do.
The full chart can be found here: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...413_Charts.pdf
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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-screen-shot-2014-11-25-5.20.53-pm.png  
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