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Old 11-13-2014, 05:17 PM   #6016
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Be sure to glue the inserts....otherwise you'll get to much arm flex, will feel inconsistent
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:32 PM   #6017
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Be sure to glue the inserts....otherwise you'll get to much arm flex, will feel inconsistent
Do you use the screws and glue together?
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:37 PM   #6018
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Do you use the screws and glue together?
yes use both
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:51 PM   #6019
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Is anybody on here using the 2 stage 3 hole RCShox piston's and if so can you please give some feedback. Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #6020
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Do you use the screws and glue together?
try shoo-goo and screws.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:33 PM   #6021
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shoe goo is alot more weight than ca
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:42 PM   #6022
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Are most guys using the the stock plastic ones or the carbon. It seems like Ty uses the carbon on most of his setups.
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:09 PM   #6023
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Got a little bored tonight while prepping a Proline Type-R body, wanted to see if I could make a really good condition Finnisher body fit that I had for my old D4 (actually a B44.2 body that fit the D4). It works ok, but might be tough to trim without another body to use as a guide, so I pressed the already cut out Proline body over the JC one lining up the front body mount hole and used that as a guide for the recesses of the shock tower mounts. Took a bit of trial and error, trimming slowly, but its definitely useable. Looks a bit less cab forward than normal, but not too bad. One issue I'm noticing is that the servo horn is hitting the side on full right steering, I think I can get it to work though. I'll should be giving it a track test tomorrow.



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Old 11-13-2014, 07:20 PM   #6024
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That looks really good!
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:34 PM   #6025
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Are you guys shimming the rear hubs and arms? With the Ty reedy spacers on the rear arms there is still play, could use a .5 shim I think. Also the rear hubs slide a bit side to side as well.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:46 PM   #6026
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Originally Posted by ironzgti35 View Post
Are you guys shimming the rear hubs and arms? With the Ty reedy spacers on the rear arms there is still play, could use a .5 shim I think. Also the rear hubs slide a bit side to side as well.
I added an additional .5 mm washer. And there is still a little play. If you look at Ty's other setups, he does put 2.5 mm of washers at times.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:48 PM   #6027
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For those racing on carpet, did you see that Ty posted a new carpet setup:

http://www.tytessman.com/setups/pdf/...rpet-setup.pdf
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:54 AM   #6028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironzgti35 View Post
Are you guys shimming the rear hubs and arms? With the Ty reedy spacers on the rear arms there is still play, could use a .5 shim I think. Also the rear hubs slide a bit side to side as well.

I did. Shimmed the slop out of the back. The front was good on mine so I didn't need any additional shims there.
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:08 AM   #6029
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Are most guys using the the stock plastic ones or the carbon. It seems like Ty uses the carbon on most of his setups.
Well I run on a high bite clay indoor track and I use the plastic inserts and the car is a monster. I drove another D413 with carbon inserts and didn't notice much difference that would validate the cost. I glued my plastic inserts and seems good enough for me.
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:40 AM   #6030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerby View Post
Be sure to glue the inserts....otherwise you'll get to much arm flex, will feel inconsistent
Hmmmm interesting cause I didn't glue my insert and car feels super great and each week I get consistently faster with it shaving more time off.
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