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Old 11-13-2014, 08:51 AM   #6001
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Default 1.7 & 1.6 pistons

anyone come up with a direct fit yet? I started putting the buggy together last night and skipped the shocks. I wanted to get Associated tapered pistons for my
TLR SC and figured I'd order some pistons for the D413 at the sometime. I have associated Flat 1.5, 1.6 pistons but the interior hole is too big to fit the d413 shaft. I thought about filling the center hole with JB weld and redrill the center hole rather than messing around with trying to get consistent 1.6 & 1.7 holes drilled in the piston.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:08 AM   #6002
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Originally Posted by Firewood View Post
anyone come up with a direct fit yet? I started putting the buggy together last night and skipped the shocks. I wanted to get Associated tapered pistons for my
TLR SC and figured I'd order some pistons for the D413 at the sometime. I have associated Flat 1.5, 1.6 pistons but the interior hole is too big to fit the d413 shaft. I thought about filling the center hole with JB weld and redrill the center hole rather than messing around with trying to get consistent 1.6 & 1.7 holes drilled in the piston.
If your looking for piston options try here
http://www.rcshox.com/hotbodies/
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:09 AM   #6003
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Originally Posted by Firewood View Post
anyone come up with a direct fit yet? I started putting the buggy together last night and skipped the shocks. I wanted to get Associated tapered pistons for my
TLR SC and figured I'd order some pistons for the D413 at the sometime. I have associated Flat 1.5, 1.6 pistons but the interior hole is too big to fit the d413 shaft. I thought about filling the center hole with JB weld and redrill the center hole rather than messing around with trying to get consistent 1.6 & 1.7 holes drilled in the piston.
RCSHOX has pistons for the d413. Aside from that I know the B5 rear shock shafts are the same length as the h413 front shafts. And I think the d413 rear shoc shafts are the same as the SC10 rear shock shafts, but I cant confirm that. My point is, you could replace the shock shafts with a 3mm shock shaft that accepts "normal" 12mm pistons.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:16 AM   #6004
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okay - I'll check that out.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:09 AM   #6005
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Originally Posted by CarFanatic View Post
did you guys file and seal your carbon chasis?
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I do (habit from TC). I lightly sand the edges and then apply CA with a Q-Tip.
I've heard of people doing this, what's the advantage to doing it? How is it done as well? This is my first CF chassis.. Thanks
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:20 AM   #6006
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Originally Posted by Firewood View Post
okay - I'll check that out.
I used standard avid pistons with large hole. Just mount it to shaft inside the shockbody. Make sure it moves smooth and tighten the nut.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:53 AM   #6007
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I've heard of people doing this, what's the advantage to doing it? How is it done as well? This is my first CF chassis.. Thanks
I'd say it helps prevent the carbon fiber from splintering/separating at the edges.
I've had a few CF chassis and never did anything to them and never had any issues.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:12 PM   #6008
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what are you sanding the edges with?
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:23 PM   #6009
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Default Dilemma

I posted the below in the Team Durango DEX410 forums

"So I have been wheeling a DEX410 V3 off and on for approximately 15 months. After a rough honeymoon with it I can honestly say that I do like it. It runs well and I have the necessary parts installed for strength to finish races, when I make mistakes... but... I get bored quickly and my interest sometimes get shifted to other offerings.

That being said, I am entertaining the idea of a Hot Bodies D413. I've heard they are strong, and I know that it is capable in the right hands (isn't that true for everything). I just don't know if it'll be an upgrade or a downgrade.

Can somebody help me decide? Stay with the DEX410 or go HB D413. I can't afford to wheel both.

I'd post in the D413 thread as well, I'd expect to get some biased opinions on both sides."

Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:39 PM   #6010
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search - Carbon Fiber Chassis Prep - I found the info below, it should clarify everything.


QUOTE=VenomWorldOrder;2078987]i've just finished preparing the carbon fibre edges on my Xray T2 and i'd like to share the technique, as the edges came up piano black! wow!

ITEMS NEEDED:
-400grit wet and dry sand paper
-1200 grit wet and dry
-a sink filled with water to stop the dust from going in your lungs and causing issues!
-black permanent marker
-pink CA zap glue or any quick set ca glue
-cotton ear bud/Q-tip
-a newspaper to drip the glue on
-thin tip tweezers

PROCEEDURE:

-sand the edges of the carbonfibre with 400 grit paper
-dry the edgrs of, then inspect to see if there are any rough areas. sometimes the glueing leaves unfilled small craters on the edge of the CF
-sand again with 400 grit if required
-sand final time with 1200grit. it should feel smooth when it is dry and you pass your finger over it

GLUEING PROCESS:

-get the tweezers and open them up slightly further than what they go naturally and put the tips through the shock holes or any holes in the CF, make sure that the tweezers are sort of jamed in slightly so that they don't move and you can then use this as a handle so you don't have to touch the CF. (if you touch it, the oil from the hand will create a white area when the CA glue dries.

-now with the marker, pass the black over the edge of the CF.
-let it dry and then make a puddle of CA glue on the newspaper, wet the q tip in the puddle. be careful as the glue will dry quickly. i'd recommend leting it dry. when it drys it starts releasing a smoke DON'T BREATH IT, OR LET IT GET IN YOUR EYES!, then just dip it again in the CA. (i found that once the q tip has a layer of dryed glue on it, the glue curing time takes longer, which is recommended because it gives you time to work with it.

-coat the edges, passing over only once, and trying to get a relatively thick layer, don't let the glue get to a point that it is dripping of the Q-tip, but enough so you don't have to do several passes

-let it dry

it should look really good. the white bits in the picture you see is actually the reflection of the CF pattern from the peice underneith mirroring itself on the edge! very shiney!

the trick in this process is the black marker. the black once coated with the CA becomes very shiney. if you don't use the marker, you will be able to see the sheets through the glue, and the edges won't be as dark, or as shiney looks awesome on a well built T2 IF YOU USE BLUE FASCOLOUR, OR ANY RUBBERY, FLEXIBLE TYPE PAINT, YOU CAN ALSO GET A COLOURED EDGE.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:24 PM   #6011
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Here is my stupid question for those that have built one. I started building mine on Monday, I am building the arms but the pictures are not real clear on this. the arm mounts have angled bottoms, which way are they suppose to face. the forward facing one on the manual is clear but not the rear facing. should they both be angled the same direction, will it make a difference if they are not. i think i left them slanting the same way. also if anyone gets this kit, when building the diffs, the illustration has a shim showing, i think that shim is for when you actually put the diff onto the housing, they should have added a little note on that, i spent hours trying to figure it out because it was bigger than the outdrive so no way it can be where the image shows it to be until you add it to the housing. Also i wish they would use better screws, i already stripped one of the little screws that attach the CF piece to the steering rack, just tightening it down
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:18 PM   #6012
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Originally Posted by Nisstyre View Post
Here is my stupid question for those that have built one. I started building mine on Monday, I am building the arms but the pictures are not real clear on this. the arm mounts have angled bottoms, which way are they suppose to face. the forward facing one on the manual is clear but not the rear facing. should they both be angled the same direction, will it make a difference if they are not. i think i left them slanting the same way. also if anyone gets this kit, when building the diffs, the illustration has a shim showing, i think that shim is for when you actually put the diff onto the housing, they should have added a little note on that, i spent hours trying to figure it out because it was bigger than the outdrive so no way it can be where the image shows it to be until you add it to the housing. Also i wish they would use better screws, i already stripped one of the little screws that attach the CF piece to the steering rack, just tightening it down

I'm at the same point in assembly.
This is what I did. Maybe someone can confirm it is correct
FF is front front hinge pin mount ? and FR is front rear hinge pin mount? Makes sense to me
http://
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:29 PM   #6013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firewood View Post
I'm at the same point in assembly.
This is what I did. Maybe someone can confirm it is correct
FF is front front hinge pin mount ? and FR is front rear hinge pin mount? Makes sense to me
http://
FF is correct, FR is backwards.
it'll run either way it's just that the pointy tip on the FR will scrape the ground more if installed backwards.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:30 PM   #6014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firewood View Post
I'm at the same point in assembly.
This is what I did. Maybe someone can confirm it is correct
FF is front front hinge pin mount ? and FR is front rear hinge pin mount? Makes sense to me
http://
The consensus is that it doesn't matter what direction it points when it comes to getting the right angle. But most of us have the taller side towards the arm. So your FR should be turned around. With this way, the thought is that it will glide over dirt better.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:33 PM   #6015
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Yes. Looks better flipped around. Thank you for the quick response, quick change and on to step K
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