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Old 10-15-2013, 05:30 PM   #586
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
the only concern that I have with this buggy is how it drives on a low traction surface.
With the corbon fiber chassis being on the stiffer side then aluminum.
the chassis is quite flexible not only because of the carbon chassis but because of the upper deck structure. you'll see on the body off pictures that the upper deck is only a thin strip of carbon fiber. on the original prototype we had a ladder type upper deck which made the chassis assembly much stiffer but Ty was faster with a chassis with more flex.

i intentionally made the chassis design very simple - all the pieces are flat (no kickups or bends) and there's only one pocket on the top side for spur gear clearance. it would be easy for aftermarket companies to make optional chassis shapes and materials. i think it'd cool to see what aftermarket companies can come up with for options.

as i mentioned before, we're not ruling out an aluminum chassis for the future. but at the moment with the limited testing and racing we've done, we're quite happy with the performance of the carbon fiber chassis.

as for low traction surfaces - lighter oil in the center diff works wonders.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:25 PM   #587
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I hope it stays with a cf chassis. I think hb and tamiya are the only ones not aluminum. It's good to know I don't have to check if the chassis is bent or not
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:32 PM   #588
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the kit won't come with a chassis protector.
Even if it won't come with the kit, will HPI/HB offer it as an optional accessory? Or are we going to have to go to aftermarket companies?
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:00 PM   #589
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Even if it won't come with the kit, will HPI/HB offer it as an optional accessory? Or are we going to have to go to aftermarket companies?
If not jconcepts makes a chassis protector that u can any way u like.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:20 PM   #590
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And proline usually has a undertray included with their wheeler bodies if you pick up an aftermarket body. They will make it if this buggy sells enough and I think it will
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:43 AM   #591
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Also I am wondering if it have TC style droop screws like on the S-workz buggy.

Its sucha pain to open ur shocks up and put or remove limiters
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:13 AM   #592
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I can't see droop screws being used on a CF chassis.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:16 AM   #593
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Also I am wondering if it have TC style droop screws like on the S-workz buggy.

Its sucha pain to open ur shocks up and put or remove limiters
I thought limiters were to adjust shock travel? Wouldn't one adjust shock ball end threads for droop?

Will AMain carry it and parts in abundance?
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:22 AM   #594
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I thought limiters were to adjust shock travel? Wouldn't one adjust shock ball end threads for droop?

Will AMain carry it and parts in abundance?
Designer stated any place that carries HB products will obviously carry this car and parts.
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:00 AM   #595
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I thought limiters were to adjust shock travel? Wouldn't one adjust shock ball end threads for droop?

Will AMain carry it and parts in abundance?
You generally adjust droop with internal shock limiters in 1/10 scale. You can "cheat" by unscrewing shock eyelets though.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:58 AM   #596
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Droop screws are not really practical for 1/10 buggies. The hinge pin heights we run are so low that there's no room for droop tabs on the chassis. If you see a 1/10 buggy equipped with droop screws and droop tabs, chances are their hinge pin heights or roll centers are too high.

To adjust droop on the D413 I designed shock eyelets that have a deeper thread bore and shock shafts with droop indicators. So basically you use the 'screw the eyelet in-and-out' method but I guess it's no longer 'cheating' because it was intentionally designed this way? With the deep thread bore on the eyelet you don't run out of thread engagement even when you back it out for full droop. Each line on the shaft is 1mm and the thread pitch is 0.5mm per turn.

If you like to run very little droop you can screw the eyelet all the way to the top line but if that's still not enough then you can always add limiters inside.

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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-droop-adjust.jpg  
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:05 AM   #597
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
Droop screws are not really practical for 1/10 buggies. The hinge pin heights we run are so low that there's no room for droop tabs on the chassis. If you see a 1/10 buggy equipped with droop screws and droop tabs, chances are their hinge pin heights or roll centers are too high.

To adjust droop on the D413 I designed shock eyelets that have a deeper thread bore and shock shafts with droop indicators. So basically you use the 'screw the eyelet in-and-out' method but I guess it's no longer 'cheating' because it was intentionally designed this way? With the deep thread bore on the eyelet you don't run out of thread engagement even when you back it out for full droop. Each line on the shaft is 1mm and the thread pitch is 0.5mm per turn.

If you like to run very little droop you can screw the eyelet all the way to the top line but if that's still not enough then you can always add limiters inside.



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Old 10-16-2013, 10:08 AM   #598
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GENIUS!!
Yea seriously...Torrance (and the design team) seems to have thought of everything. This is going to be an awesome car.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:10 AM   #599
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WOW. like i said, the innovation on this buggy is really quite impressive. so much so in fact, that this little tidbit wasn't even mentioned in the promo vids. well done mr. deguzman.

***for the guy who's been in RC for 30 years and brings up the random "it's nothing new, the 1984 kyosho dune buggy had these". save it. no recent RC that i know of has used this feature.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:12 AM   #600
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This car just keeps getting better and better.

Torrance, I am curious what your background in design is? How did you get started designing these cars? How did you end up at Hotbodies.
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