66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
10-21-2014, 12:06 PM
#5311
Im not a beginner, just havent built nearly as many 10th scale kits as I have 8th.
10-21-2014, 12:09 PM
#5312
you might have to make your own hole for the weeping. I would use the stock caps as a reference for where to drill. what bladders are you using in the AE caps? The d413 ones? And I would assume the missing weep hole is part of the issue you are having. Does the tekno have the weep hole in the treads?
10-21-2014, 12:17 PM
#5313
Thank you for making it abundantly clear that you know a thing or two about displacement and shocks, if I knew everything I wouldnt be here asking for help but I didnt ask for rant about how wrong I am and a lecture on displacement. I simply asked for someone to point me towards clear, specific, directions and yes I know you posted directions but yours did not mention a bladder and I would like to use the bladder and as you said you've never built these shocks with a bladder yet. And the way I build 8th scale shocks is the way the Tekno directions explicitly say to do it and they always work great and have zero rebound but Im not saying that is the right way to do it for 10th scale, its just the way I know how, I just wanted someone to point me towards very clear directions.
Thank you to nv529 for posting Ty's method without the lecture
Thank you to nv529 for posting Ty's method without the lecture
Please dont take it the wrong way, internet is 2d not 3d, that was not my intent. I did state that its the same process with or without the bladder. I dont see how you can possibly extend the shock all the way down on any shock and not get 100% rebound? You asked how to build it with zero rebound and then completely bypassed what i recommended. I thought my explanation and instructions were clear but apparently they were not. Because you said that you built them with the shaft extended led me to believe that you did not understand how shocks work, nothing wrong with that not everyone does.My " lecture" was my attempt to help you understand
So i apologize for trying to help you understand, i didnt realize that you already knew, my bad.
10-21-2014, 12:33 PM
#5314
you might have to make your own hole for the weeping. I would use the stock caps as a reference for where to drill. what bladders are you using in the AE caps? The d413 ones? And I would assume the missing weep hole is part of the issue you are having. Does the tekno have the weep hole in the treads?
Please dont take it the wrong way, internet is 2d not 3d, that was not my intent. I did state that its the same process with or without the bladder. I dont see how you can possibly extend the shock all the way down on any shock and not get 100% rebound? You asked how to build it with zero rebound and then completely bypassed what i recommended. I thought my explanation and instructions were clear but apparently they were not. Because you said that you built them with the shaft extended led me to believe that you did not understand how shocks work, nothing wrong with that not everyone does.My " lecture" was my attempt to help you understand So i apologize for trying to help you understand, i didnt realize that you already knew, my bad.
So i apologize for trying to help you understand, i didnt realize that you already knew, my bad.1.I fill the shocks with oil (pump, rid air bubbles etc)
2. Then if I want zero rebound, I push the shock shaft almost all the way in
3. Completely fill shock and let settle
4. Put bladder on and pull the shock shaft down to "suck" the bladder into palce and to displaces the extra oil
5. wipe off extra oil and then put the vented cap on while still holding the shaft compeltely out to insure the bladder stays seated.
Thats how I do 8th scale, again right or wrong its what the instructions say(can you tell I like to follow good instructions haha) I appreciate your help.
10-21-2014, 12:43 PM
#5315
B5 caps w the stock HB bladder. The tekno cap has the hole but its not necessary for the way they instruct you to build them.
hmm yea Im not sure maybe because I dont extend it until after the bladder is put on? maybe Im not explaining it correctly but ill try again, this is how Tekno says to build them and thats how I do it and attain zero rebound:
1.I fill the shocks with oil (pump, rid air bubbles etc)
2. Then if I want zero rebound, I push the shock shaft almost all the way in
3. Completely fill shock and let settle
4. Put bladder on and pull the shock shaft down to "suck" the bladder into palce and to displaces the extra oil
5. wipe off extra oil and then put the vented cap on while still holding the shaft compeltely out to insure the bladder stays seated.
Thats how I do 8th scale, again right or wrong its what the instructions say(can you tell I like to follow good instructions haha) I appreciate your help.
hmm yea Im not sure maybe because I dont extend it until after the bladder is put on? maybe Im not explaining it correctly but ill try again, this is how Tekno says to build them and thats how I do it and attain zero rebound:
1.I fill the shocks with oil (pump, rid air bubbles etc)
2. Then if I want zero rebound, I push the shock shaft almost all the way in
3. Completely fill shock and let settle
4. Put bladder on and pull the shock shaft down to "suck" the bladder into palce and to displaces the extra oil
5. wipe off extra oil and then put the vented cap on while still holding the shaft compeltely out to insure the bladder stays seated.
Thats how I do 8th scale, again right or wrong its what the instructions say(can you tell I like to follow good instructions haha) I appreciate your help.
After reading those instructions it can bee confusing
if you are pulling the shaft down why would you have extra oil seeping out anywhere? IMO those are not very good instructions UNLESS tekno wants the shocks to be 100% rebound, is that what they want?
10-21-2014, 12:55 PM
#5316
Tekno shocks have 2 holes, one to bleed the oil (side of cap) and one to vent the bladder (vent hole is located between the cap and standoff. See photo for reference). Tekno shocks aren't pressurized in the same manner as a standard 1/8th shock or D413 bladder shock with a sealed volume of air between the cap and bladder. This is why your D413 shocks are getting rebound when building per tekno instructions. If you drill a weeping hole on side of the AE caps and build per Ty's method you shouldn't have any problems achieving zero rebound.
10-21-2014, 01:04 PM
#5317
Tekno shocks have 2 holes, one to bleed the oil (side of cap) and one to vent the bladder (vent hole is located between the cap and standoff. See photo for reference). Tekno shocks aren't pressurized in the same manner as a standard 1/8th shock or D413 bladder shock with a sealed volume of air between the cap and bladder. This is why your D413 shocks are getting rebound when building per tekno instructions. If you drill a weeping hole on side of the AE caps and build per Ty's method you shouldn't have any problems achieving zero rebound.
NOW IT MAKES SENSE!! so they are vented bladder which IMO is the best way to build shocks! thanks for posting, that clears up everything
10-21-2014, 01:23 PM
#5318
Step 1. Extend the shock shaft all the way down. Fill the shock with oil
until the body is approximately 90% full.
Step 2. Slowly pump the shock shaft up and down about 3-5 times to release
air bubbles from underneath the piston.
Step 3. Let the shock rest vertically with the shock shaft fully extended for ve
minutes or until all of the air bubbles have released.
Step 4. Push the shaft in to the amount of rebound desired. For example, to achieve little or no rebound, push the shaft in all the way (in this case, about ¼” of shaft showing). For 50% rebound, push the shaft in half way. Make sure that you match the rebound amount between the left and right shocks. We've found that running the least amount of (0%) rebound in both the front and rear shocks gives the most consistent overall performance.
Step 5. Next you will top o the shock with oil. The goal is not to ll the body completely, but only to ll it enough so that when the bladder is placed on top there will be no air underneath. If you do over ll the shock, it won’t hurt performance, it will just spill out and make a little bit of a mess.
Step 6. In this step you will be placing the bladder on top the shock body. While holding the shock shaft in the desired position from step 4, push the bladder down onto the shock body using your fi ngertip to fully seat the lip of the bladder onto the rim of the shock body. If done correctly a small amount of oil should bleed out. If no oil is released you may have some air trapped underneath the bladder and you will need to remove the bladder and repeat step 5. Once the bladder is seated onto the shock body, pull the shock shaft down about 20mm. This will “suck” the bladder down and hold it in place. Carefully wipe away the excess oil that was bled, being careful not to disrupt the seal of the bladder on the shock body.
Step 7. While continuing to hold the shock vertically, screw the shock cap down onto the body and tighten fully. The cap will bottom out easily, but the bladder will be sealed tight. You can use an adjustable wrench to hold the bottom of the shock while tightening the shock cap down to be sure they are tight.
But I will try Ty's method for the D413 I guess.
10-21-2014, 01:24 PM
#5319
I would just offer one word of cation when making a vent hole into a shock cap. Not all shock caps seat down far enough to have a good hold on the bladder. When may never know this with them when running a shock cap with no vent hole and a bladder because the air trapped between the top of the bladder and shock cap has enough air pressure when the piston travels upwards the oil doesnt blow past the bladder. But once you drill a vent hole you no longer have that air pressure to hold the bladder in place which can result in oil blowing out the vent hole. This is usually a result of the shock cap being to tall.
This is a issue i encountered when I vented my losi 22 caps, but i sanded down my caps 1/32" and i now have a tight seal.
This is a issue i encountered when I vented my losi 22 caps, but i sanded down my caps 1/32" and i now have a tight seal.
10-21-2014, 02:08 PM
#5322
See I am not crazy haha, that was my point from the beginning, I didnt say building them the way I build tekno shocks was the right way to do it, its just the only way I know how and the HB instructions werent clear so I did it the way I know, I was just saying thats how I did it as a point of reference. Here are the actual instructions from Tekno:
Step 1. Extend the shock shaft all the way down. Fill the shock with oil
until the body is approximately 90% full.
Step 2. Slowly pump the shock shaft up and down about 3-5 times to release
air bubbles from underneath the piston.
Step 3. Let the shock rest vertically with the shock shaft fully extended for ve
minutes or until all of the air bubbles have released.
Step 4. Push the shaft in to the amount of rebound desired. For example, to achieve little or no rebound, push the shaft in all the way (in this case, about ¼” of shaft showing). For 50% rebound, push the shaft in half way. Make sure that you match the rebound amount between the left and right shocks. We've found that running the least amount of (0%) rebound in both the front and rear shocks gives the most consistent overall performance.
Step 5. Next you will top o the shock with oil. The goal is not to ll the body completely, but only to ll it enough so that when the bladder is placed on top there will be no air underneath. If you do over ll the shock, it won’t hurt performance, it will just spill out and make a little bit of a mess.
Step 6. In this step you will be placing the bladder on top the shock body. While holding the shock shaft in the desired position from step 4, push the bladder down onto the shock body using your fi ngertip to fully seat the lip of the bladder onto the rim of the shock body. If done correctly a small amount of oil should bleed out. If no oil is released you may have some air trapped underneath the bladder and you will need to remove the bladder and repeat step 5. Once the bladder is seated onto the shock body, pull the shock shaft down about 20mm. This will “suck” the bladder down and hold it in place. Carefully wipe away the excess oil that was bled, being careful not to disrupt the seal of the bladder on the shock body.
Step 7. While continuing to hold the shock vertically, screw the shock cap down onto the body and tighten fully. The cap will bottom out easily, but the bladder will be sealed tight. You can use an adjustable wrench to hold the bottom of the shock while tightening the shock cap down to be sure they are tight.
But I will try Ty's method for the D413 I guess.
Step 1. Extend the shock shaft all the way down. Fill the shock with oil
until the body is approximately 90% full.
Step 2. Slowly pump the shock shaft up and down about 3-5 times to release
air bubbles from underneath the piston.
Step 3. Let the shock rest vertically with the shock shaft fully extended for ve
minutes or until all of the air bubbles have released.
Step 4. Push the shaft in to the amount of rebound desired. For example, to achieve little or no rebound, push the shaft in all the way (in this case, about ¼” of shaft showing). For 50% rebound, push the shaft in half way. Make sure that you match the rebound amount between the left and right shocks. We've found that running the least amount of (0%) rebound in both the front and rear shocks gives the most consistent overall performance.
Step 5. Next you will top o the shock with oil. The goal is not to ll the body completely, but only to ll it enough so that when the bladder is placed on top there will be no air underneath. If you do over ll the shock, it won’t hurt performance, it will just spill out and make a little bit of a mess.
Step 6. In this step you will be placing the bladder on top the shock body. While holding the shock shaft in the desired position from step 4, push the bladder down onto the shock body using your fi ngertip to fully seat the lip of the bladder onto the rim of the shock body. If done correctly a small amount of oil should bleed out. If no oil is released you may have some air trapped underneath the bladder and you will need to remove the bladder and repeat step 5. Once the bladder is seated onto the shock body, pull the shock shaft down about 20mm. This will “suck” the bladder down and hold it in place. Carefully wipe away the excess oil that was bled, being careful not to disrupt the seal of the bladder on the shock body.
Step 7. While continuing to hold the shock vertically, screw the shock cap down onto the body and tighten fully. The cap will bottom out easily, but the bladder will be sealed tight. You can use an adjustable wrench to hold the bottom of the shock while tightening the shock cap down to be sure they are tight.
But I will try Ty's method for the D413 I guess.
10-21-2014, 02:10 PM
#5323
I would just offer one word of cation when making a vent hole into a shock cap. Not all shock caps seat down far enough to have a good hold on the bladder. When may never know this with them when running a shock cap with no vent hole and a bladder because the air trapped between the top of the bladder and shock cap has enough air pressure when the piston travels upwards the oil doesnt blow past the bladder. But once you drill a vent hole you no longer have that air pressure to hold the bladder in place which can result in oil blowing out the vent hole. This is usually a result of the shock cap being to tall.
This is a issue i encountered when I vented my losi 22 caps, but i sanded down my caps 1/32" and i now have a tight seal.
This is a issue i encountered when I vented my losi 22 caps, but i sanded down my caps 1/32" and i now have a tight seal.
10-21-2014, 02:52 PM
#5324
But your right if running emulsion it would not matter since the vent hole is plugged with a screw and oring after bleeding the shocks.
