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Old 10-20-2014, 05:31 PM   #5296
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so you leave 10mm of the shaft exposed with the oil level, then put the bladder on and then pull the shaft out and put the cap on. Marcus, seems like a good video for you to post


I never pull the shaft back out, where did that come from?

AAAAHHHH your being funny
But yea i will do a video soon only problem is that i dont have bladders for this car.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:33 PM   #5297
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so you leave 10mm of the shaft exposed with the oil level, then put the bladder on and then pull the shaft out and put the cap on. Marcus, seems like a good video for you to post
Instead of pulling the shaft out 10mm, you could put on your spring cups when bleeding the shocks. The shaft/shock is limited to your cup anyway, so no need to bleed beyond this point.
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:40 AM   #5298
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sorry if it wasnt clear but i said they rebound 100% even when i build them with none, meaning I build them with no rebound. I want zero rebound and even when I build them that way it still has 100%
Thatīs what i mean. Itīs impossible to built bladder style with zero rebound. My best built was set to zero rebound but ended up with 3/4 rebound. Daaaamn i drive indoor carpet, and i really would be a happy hero if i could just go without rebound. I've build my 1/8 Mbx7 many times with no issues.
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Old 10-21-2014, 05:46 AM   #5299
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Thatīs what i mean. Itīs impossible to built bladder style with zero rebound. My best built was set to zero rebound but ended up with 3/4 rebound. Daaaamn i drive indoor carpet, and i really would be a happy hero if i could just go without rebound. I've build my 1/8 Mbx7 many times with no issues.

Its easier to build zero rebound with a bladder than with emulsion( although i have not built bladder with these shocks yet). If you want zero rebound with bladder simply leave the bleed screw out, if you are on carpet then you will have no issues with dirt getting inside the cap(which doesnt matter anyway unless you run in the mud!). This is how carpet onroad shocks are built. A zero rebound built emulsion shock will build rebound due to heat/pressure quicker than a bladder built with zero rebound. Thats the nature of a bladder.

Like coke master mentioned and something that i do on a shock that is hard to build (which i dont think the HB shocks are but TeamC are) but if you build the shock at zero rebound with the shaft all the way in and then put a 3mm limiter on the shaft then the shock will never get to that point where all of the pressure is built up.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:32 AM   #5300
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I find it extremely easy to build the shocks with zero rebound taking the screw out. Before I just used the little hole I reamed our. But using the screw it's dummy proof
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:57 AM   #5301
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Again, to be clear, i was not trying to have 100% rebound. I built them the way I know how from 8th scale (right or wrong) and I built them to have zero rebound and yet somehow they have 100% rebound. I am not blaming HB shocks at all, so no i wasnt saying they are a pain in the ass. I am just not an avid 10th scale guy, just gets me thru the winter but I've built lots of 10th scale shocks but just cant seem to get these HB ones right because the directions aren't very specific. Can anyone post a link to a video of how to build these or any similar shocks with the bladder? When using the b5 caps, are you saying if I leave the bleeder screw out then I will get zero rebound?
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:27 AM   #5302
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
Again, to be clear, i was not trying to have 100% rebound. I built them the way I know how from 8th scale (right or wrong) and I built them to have zero rebound and yet somehow they have 100% rebound. I am not blaming HB shocks at all, so no i wasnt saying they are a pain in the ass. I am just not an avid 10th scale guy, just gets me thru the winter but I've built lots of 10th scale shocks but just cant seem to get these HB ones right because the directions aren't very specific. Can anyone post a link to a video of how to build these or any similar shocks with the bladder? When using the b5 caps, are you saying if I leave the bleeder screw out then I will get zero rebound?
Try building your shocks per ty's method.

http://www.tytessman.com/racing/tips...ing-shocks.php
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:44 AM   #5303
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He talks about the bleed hole in the shock. I dont think the d413 has that. I loosened the cap and pushed it up all the way and tightened the cap. when I did I had like 75% rebound.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:05 AM   #5304
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
Again, to be clear, i was not trying to have 100% rebound. I built them the way I know how from 8th scale (right or wrong) and I built them to have zero rebound and yet somehow they have 100% rebound. I am not blaming HB shocks at all, so no i wasnt saying they are a pain in the ass. I am just not an avid 10th scale guy, just gets me thru the winter but I've built lots of 10th scale shocks but just cant seem to get these HB ones right because the directions aren't very specific. Can anyone post a link to a video of how to build these or any similar shocks with the bladder? When using the b5 caps, are you saying if I leave the bleeder screw out then I will get zero rebound?
That is because you are putting the cap on with the shaft extended. you cant do that and expect not to have 100% rebound, your not supposed to build 1/8 scale shocks that way either. when you do it that way the displacement of the shaft is where the rebound is coming from. Take a glass of water fill it to the top and start dropping pennies into it, after a few pennies the water will spill over the edge. in our case the pennies are equal to the shock shaft. so if you build the shock with the shaft all the way out where is the displacement going to go when the shaft goes into compression? its an enclosed system unless you bleed out via bladder and vent hole or at the very least bladder . air will compress more than oil will.

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He talks about the bleed hole in the shock. I dont think the d413 has that. I loosened the cap and pushed it up all the way and tightened the cap. when I did I had like 75% rebound.
I am so confused i have no issues with zero rebound emulsion on mine. well i take that back you get about 2mm of rebound but thats it.
if you build the shock and only put the bleed screw in while the piston is up top how are you getting that much rebound?
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:23 AM   #5305
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
He talks about the bleed hole in the shock. I dont think the d413 has that. I loosened the cap and pushed it up all the way and tightened the cap. when I did I had like 75% rebound.
The dimple/bleed hole is on the cap over the threads. see bold area

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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
Build Tip #2
The shock can be built bladder style or emulsion style. I think the manuals shows it being built with a bladder. If you choose to build it emulsion style you'll have to trim the bladder and drill the hole through the cap for the bleeder screw. (see picture)



There's also a small dimple on the shock cap that you can ream out. If you build it bladder style this helps the excess oil escape when screwing on the cap. 1/8 guys should be familiar with this feature.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:23 AM   #5306
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never mind, lol. I think I finally get it. I never noticed a dimple on the cap before. I will look at that when I get home
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:35 AM   #5307
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never mind, lol. I think I finally get it. I never noticed a dimple on the cap before. I will look at that when I get home
Old man!!
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:38 AM   #5308
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so yeah, I was trying to build bladder shocks with out the weep hole....can you guess why it sucked, lol.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #5309
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
That is because you are putting the cap on with the shaft extended. you cant do that and expect not to have 100% rebound, your not supposed to build 1/8 scale shocks that way either. when you do it that way the displacement of the shaft is where the rebound is coming from. Take a glass of water fill it to the top and start dropping pennies into it, after a few pennies the water will spill over the edge. in our case the pennies are equal to the shock shaft. so if you build the shock with the shaft all the way out where is the displacement going to go when the shaft goes into compression? its an enclosed system unless you bleed out via bladder and vent hole or at the very least bladder . air will compress more than oil will.
Thank you for making it abundantly clear that you know a thing or two about displacement and shocks, if I knew everything I wouldnt be here asking for help but I didnt ask for rant about how wrong I am and a lecture on displacement. I simply asked for someone to point me towards clear, specific, directions and yes I know you posted directions but yours did not mention a bladder and I would like to use the bladder and as you said you've never built these shocks with a bladder yet. And the way I build 8th scale shocks is the way the Tekno directions explicitly say to do it and they always work great and have zero rebound but Im not saying that is the right way to do it for 10th scale, its just the way I know how, I just wanted someone to point me towards very clear directions.

Thank you to nv529 for posting Ty's method without the lecture
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:03 PM   #5310
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Originally Posted by Graham11 View Post
Thank you for making it abundantly clear that you know a thing or two about displacement and shocks, if I knew everything I wouldnt be here asking for help but I didnt ask for rant about how wrong I am and a lecture on displacement. I simply asked for someone to point me towards clear, specific, directions and yes I know you posted directions but yours did not mention a bladder and I would like to use the bladder and as you said you've never built these shocks with a bladder yet. And the way I build 8th scale shocks is the way the Tekno directions explicitly say to do it and they always work great and have zero rebound but Im not saying that is the right way to do it for 10th scale, its just the way I know how, I just wanted someone to point me towards very clear directions.

Thank you to nv529 for posting Ty's method without the lecture
Did you drill the weeping hole in the cap? As you saw above...I didnt even notice it, lol. I think I will pick up some new bladders and try it again.
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