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Old 10-20-2014, 10:29 AM   #5266
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beat that.
raced in class with 9 other 4wd sc all day on a 1/8 scale outdoor track. nothing broke. and i was HARD on it leapfrogging them on the big triple. that ought to do it.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:42 AM   #5267
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Here is my current track. I have no idea who the green truck is.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=830716956958731
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:44 AM   #5268
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I am in the same dilemma. We are running clay slicks. And I also feel like the car is diffing out. Part my my issue is roll though. I think the car rolling over far. And some of my wheels are leaving the ground. I am thinking about removing some of the droop and going to the black rear sway. I have not really gone beyond the 100k center fluid because I worry about over stressing the spur gear. I can feel it slip getting on the power going straight, and i am sure that 300k would lock it in more. I just dont feel like the hard launching forward bite will be useful. I can blip it over our triple that has a short run up.
I have all of the "factory" droop out of my car and put 3mm spacers in the front to further remove droop. This helped out A LOT with on power steering on the same turn coming onto the straight. Before that the car would wheelie on the short straight coming up to the turn and push wide. I removed the washers up front and put a 2mm washer under the read ballstud and the car is super responsive in direction change. Too responsive! need to dial back on the rear, off power the rear wants to rotate too much. Still diffs out and unloads more than I would like.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:56 AM   #5269
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I am running 7k front, 100k center 3k rear in my diffs, high bite smooth wet dirt indoors. Super soft tires shaved to slicks with closed cell foam inserts. Having trouble diffing out coming onto straight after sweeper. Was thinking about going to 300k in center and 10k rear. Would like to leave front alone, car has good steering, but not putting the power down. 5.5t Tekin Gen2 motor. I know my info is all over the place but wanted to make sure I covered the vitals...
Personally i think your dif fluids are too light, go up on both but with the same ratio and it should keep the same balance for the most part so go 10/6 or 12/8. going up in the center dif is just going to make the rear dif out even more since less power will be transfer to the front. to get your steering back play with toe out and sway bars. if you keep going up in the center on high grip eventually your gonna start eating spur gears.Just my suggestion
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:08 AM   #5270
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Will going up on my front diff fluid give me less steering off throttle? I could use a little less, on a decreasing radius corner, off power, I seem to have a little more steering than I would like. If this would "numb" the last third of the steering that would help solve a few problems
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:08 AM   #5271
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i started building my kit last night and was using the b5 shock caps and they are definitely not an exact fit, they go on and work but you really have to push hard, Im assuming the thread pitch is different or something, did anyone else experience this?
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:10 AM   #5272
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Will going up on my front diff fluid give me less steering off throttle? I could use a little less, on a decreasing radius corner, off power, I seem to have a little more steering than I would like. If this would "numb" the last third of the steering that would help solve a few problems
Going up on diff fluid in the front will give you more steering exiting the turn.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:11 AM   #5273
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Will going up on my front diff fluid give me less steering off throttle? I could use a little less, on a decreasing radius corner, off power, I seem to have a little more steering than I would like. If this would "numb" the last third of the steering that would help solve a few problems
yes, going up will give more on power steering and less off power. just be careful about tuning your buggy for one turn or one section of the track.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:13 AM   #5274
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Going up on diff fluid in the front will give you more steering exiting the turn.

On power it would increase. I was hoping with the increased parasitic drag that it would decrease OFF power steering.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:19 AM   #5275
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i did not have to push b5 on to start threading. it did not thread all the way down shut. i used some durango shock cap o-rings to help seal it. but im not sure its needed.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:23 AM   #5276
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Default Shocks with no rebound

Hi guys.

HOW !!!! Do i build my shocks with zero rebound ? I just cant make it work. When i push the shock shaft all the way up, everything´s fine until i tighten the cap, then it slowly start to move out. No air is inside, and i did ream the bleed hole so the excess oil could escape. It´s when i do the last cap tightening the shaft pops out to about 50% rebound.

Please help me with some advise on how to make zero rebound shocks on my D413 - Thanks
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:41 AM   #5277
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i started building my kit last night and was using the b5 shock caps and they are definitely not an exact fit, they go on and work but you really have to push hard, Im assuming the thread pitch is different or something, did anyone else experience this?
some of mine went right on and some didnt. I think the anodizing on some of the shocks was thicker or something. They go on good about 90% and the last 10% get tight. This was mainly on 1 of the front shocks. The rear went on with no issues.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:17 PM   #5278
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Originally Posted by buyselltradeevy View Post
Will going up on my front diff fluid give me less steering off throttle? I could use a little less, on a decreasing radius corner, off power, I seem to have a little more steering than I would like. If this would "numb" the last third of the steering that would help solve a few problems

Yes, going up will numb steering going in and give you more on power and exit steering. I wouldnt use dif fluids for steering characteristics, that can be controlled via, roll centers , camber,castor and toe. raising will give you less off power but toe out will take care of that since your only off power going into a turn.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:26 PM   #5279
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Hi guys.

HOW !!!! Do i build my shocks with zero rebound ? I just cant make it work. When i push the shock shaft all the way up, everything´s fine until i tighten the cap, then it slowly start to move out. No air is inside, and i did ream the bleed hole so the excess oil could escape. It´s when i do the last cap tightening the shaft pops out to about 50% rebound.

Please help me with some advise on how to make zero rebound shocks on my D413 - Thanks

Much easier to go zero with bladders and also keep in mind that no matter how you do it unless you are vented bladder your always going to have at least a little amount of rebound. A mistake that some people make when doing zero rebound emulsion is realizing that you must have air in the system for it to work properly , if you are building your emulsion shock with no air as soon as you start to build up heat or temps go up so will your rebound.
With that being said here is my technique:
  1. fill shock to the rim with shaft pulled all the way down
  2. let them sit for a few minutes
  3. remove bleed screw from the cap
  4. with the shock upright put the cap on all the way
  5. now lay the shock down at approximately 45* with the bleed hole facing upwards
  6. slowly push the shaft all the way up
  7. at this point you really should not have any oil coming out, if you do you have too much oil in the shock
  8. tighten down the bleed screw
  9. cycle the shaft about a dozen times and then push all the way up
  10. now open up the bleed screw and some pressure will be relieved
  11. tighten down the bleed screw again and you should be done.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:27 PM   #5280
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yes, going up will give more on power steering and less off power. just be careful about tuning your buggy for one turn or one section of the track.
+1
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