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Old 10-05-2013, 10:03 AM   #481
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It's not about keeping the wheels down. I can snap a front B44.2 a-arm by just barely clipping a pipe - just touching it. On my 22, I can hit that stuff nearly full speed and normally be ok.
+1. I feel the same way. I have to tiptoe around the track with my B44 or it won't make it. While my 22 is so strong. So for my next 4wd I want durability even if it means the car is slightly heavier or slower. If I can drive with more confidence and the car makes it to the finish line, I will be faster in the long run.
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:26 PM   #482
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ROAR has a set of stock class rules that most tracks model their own stock classes after. I have never seen 4wd run stock in the US, not since the late 80's anyway.
When west coast ran the Nats last year there was a 17.5 non timing 4 wd class. I don't think they ran the class this year in Chico.
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:46 PM   #483
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I think with all the new 4wheelers coming into the market this class will draw more racers. with more racers a stock class may form.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:50 PM   #484
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Stock needs to be rethought at the national level. Car technology has advanced to the point where a good race car can handle a LOT more power than in the past. Compare an RC10 to a B4.2.... The 4.2 can take that extra power and actually use it. With a modern car and a 17.5 it is almost boring (unless you like looking at tenths of seconds on the lap sheet). Seems to me in todays world stock (especially when talking about racing) should be more like a 13.5, definitely slower than "open" but more appealing than a 17.5.
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #485
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I think the word 'stock' is out of date completely - it was once pretty much based on the fact a stock motor was available for $25 vs. a mod motor at $90. Nowadays a stock brushless motor (17.5) is the same price as a mod motor(6.5) - so really what is the point of a stock class really? 4WD with 17.5's - please! What could be worse?! OK, I buy a 17.5 - and then I buy a hot rotor and get more motor out of it - now I've up'ed the game, so you need to buy one too keep up - and on it goes. Run mod - run whatever motor you can handle and let the winner prevail. Sometimes fast is fast, sometimes slow is fast. Leave the 17.5's for TC's.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:33 PM   #486
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Most around me who are looking at wheelers are looking at running a 13.5T. Kinds making the class a rough 13.5T spec since the indoor track is super small but helps keep crying about someone out motoring you down.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:42 PM   #487
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The D413 looks like a very solid and innovative car. Finally something new and refreshing that stands out amongst the 4WDs. I've been waiting for the new ZX6, but this actually looks a lot better and will most likely be my first HB. Looking forward to its release.

Question for Mr. DeGuzman (or someone who knows what HB cars usually use): Are nuts and bolts on this car Metric or SAE? Hoping for metric
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:06 PM   #488
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They are metric.
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:54 PM   #489
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Out here, for a spec "Prolite" class (basically the SCB's) they run 10.5 turn motors as a spec. Wonder what they would do with a wheeler class? maybe same or even 8.5?
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:40 PM   #490
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With all the cool innovative things and that it's HB tough I'm sure ill be picking one of these up!
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:00 AM   #491
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I was going to wait for the ZX6 but changed my mind based on all the cool stuff with this car. One question Torrance why no side guards? Also noticed Ty had some L shaped velcro pieces on the sides of the chassis for the body, is this included in the kit to keep the body secured?
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #492
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I was going to wait for the ZX6 but changed my mind based on all the cool stuff with this car. One question Torrance why no side guards? Also noticed Ty had some L shaped velcro pieces on the sides of the chassis for the body, is this included in the kit to keep the body secured?
The 'L' shaped pieces that Ty was using were simply made of scrap lexan, folded into an 'L' shape and attached to the chassis by double sided tape (you can use leftovers from the wing). I didn't want to make specific side guards because it'll increase cost due to additional molds and fasteners. The lexan 'L' brackets, in addition to being free, also gives you more flexibility in electronics placement. While it's not the sleekest solution it is the most practical one. Who knows what optional chassis configurations or chassis shapes we'll come up with in the future - I didn't want to be painted into a corner with a fixed shape side guard.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:13 PM   #493
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I don't even think I'd add the side guards, I don't get tboned very often lol, and I'm not too worried about dirt.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:19 PM   #494
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I'm starting to make a list of all the stuff needed, how much torque is necessary for a 4wd buggy.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:46 PM   #495
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All you need is a 7.5t or 6.5t motor for this class
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