66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
09-05-2014, 04:29 AM
#4487
im not upset. guess ppl have different experiences. i dont like my dex410 for other reasons. but the durango hd ball cups have been pretty good.
oh and nice looking build there.
oh and nice looking build there.
09-05-2014, 08:57 AM
#4489
the screws are from fastener Express
they don't have orange
http://www.fastener-express.com/alum...s-washers.aspx
The wheel hex are for Cyclone D4
it will give you +1 in the front and stock in the rear. they have to be drilled and shimmed
09-05-2014, 09:17 AM
#4490
Allen Drebi,
I like how you used a piece of lexan to mount the fan.
I'm not running any fans on my D413. Temps have been great.
This may not be an issue since you mounted the fan, but IF you do experience higher motor temps, you might end up needing to get all that extra wire off of your motor can. This would be especially helpful if your fan played out in the middle of a race. I had wires packed right against a motor like that before on an 8th scale buggy. Kept battling with high temps. When I re-routed my wires off the motor can, it allowed more air flow around the motor. Dropped temps about 18 degrees. Just food for thought.
Your build looks great
I like how you used a piece of lexan to mount the fan.
I'm not running any fans on my D413. Temps have been great.
This may not be an issue since you mounted the fan, but IF you do experience higher motor temps, you might end up needing to get all that extra wire off of your motor can. This would be especially helpful if your fan played out in the middle of a race. I had wires packed right against a motor like that before on an 8th scale buggy. Kept battling with high temps. When I re-routed my wires off the motor can, it allowed more air flow around the motor. Dropped temps about 18 degrees. Just food for thought.
Your build looks great
I zip tied the wires to the motor to "Train" them to stay low. I will cut the zip tie when on the track and should stay of the motor. good point though.
I used a sheet of aluminum that I cut and bent to an L shape to mount the fan. I ran the wires from the ESC and Servo under the L shaped bracket for a cleaner look.
09-05-2014, 09:39 AM
#4491
09-05-2014, 09:55 AM
#4492
Push it back. push it back. Push the ETA way back.
im about to get a b44.3 soon (when they come in) and just be done with it.
im about to get a b44.3 soon (when they come in) and just be done with it.
09-05-2014, 09:57 AM
#4493
Tech Apprentice
Rcmadness in CT has like 10 of them in stock right now. when down last week and got mine.
09-05-2014, 10:01 AM
#4494
In the future you might want to study the wire and see how twisting it one way or the other causes it to sit. Get that right and you won't ever have to "train" your wire again. I measure my wire and then tin both ends in order to see how they fall naturally so I can know how I need to solder both ends for the desired effect.
09-05-2014, 11:30 AM
#4495
09-05-2014, 12:26 PM
#4496
Pull that servo saver off and save yourself a lot of headache.
09-05-2014, 12:35 PM
#4497
So do the AE shock caps work fine on this car? Thought I read a few pages back that they don't screw on all the way?
Kind of stinks you have to spend another $30 on the car. Actually $60 on shock caps for me since my B5 needs them too.
Kind of stinks you have to spend another $30 on the car. Actually $60 on shock caps for me since my B5 needs them too.
09-05-2014, 01:04 PM
#4498
aluminium b5 caps dont thread on right from what i saw in this thread you have to use the composite ones. which are much cheaper.
or you can run the b5 ones on the d413 and upgrade the ones for your b5 if you want. but you will need the plastic standoffs too.
or you can run the b5 ones on the d413 and upgrade the ones for your b5 if you want. but you will need the plastic standoffs too.
09-05-2014, 01:09 PM
#4499
I using associated b5 plastic shock caps and associated aluminum standoffs on my car and they are working flawlessly . Don't get the aluminum b5 shock caps use the plastic ones only . The plastic ones are also cheap .
09-05-2014, 01:13 PM
#4500
Hmm. Thanks. I don't like the composite because the bleeder threads strip over time (in my case anyways). That being said I'm thinking maybe it would be best just to pick up a set of B5 composites for the HB and an extra set of composite caps for spares for both cars. Only $7 a set compared to $30 for aluminum.
I wonder if TLR aluminum caps work? I'm thinking no.
I wonder if TLR aluminum caps work? I'm thinking no.