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Old 08-15-2014, 11:54 AM   #4201
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
for chassis protectors get the stuff from AE or JC
put stickers on first them cover if u want
Wow went out and did some work, come back and the joint is blowing up, I like it!
Yeah I bought the JC clear sheets and set the chassis on it and traced the outline before the build, so now I have a template. And I must say it is very durable 20 bat packs and still in great shape. I'm just lazy. I dig the stickers before the clear idea!
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:00 PM   #4202
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Originally Posted by lbenton View Post
I like it.. but some thoughts:

Flex? Would flex less for sure, would we modify or remove top braces to get some flex back?

Weight? Does not seem like it would be an issue, modern brushless has power to spare and a bit of extra weight might settle the car down on some tracks. Also it would lower the cg a bit by adding the weight at the very bottom. Plus the D413 starts out with a lighter weight than most of the competition in any case.

Cost? Assume this will be a near $100 item.

Durability? What can break the factory chassis I would bet can bend this one. But it would hold up to scuffs and scrapes better although it will suffer the cosmetic damage.

Real world? Would like to see this used in the real world before I drop $$ on it. I assume many people would pick this as they damage the factory chassis, but is it better or a better value?
I think I would cry if it bent and saw my buggy going around the track with one wheel not touching track LOL. think I'd rather have break.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:16 PM   #4203
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Originally Posted by Rasheed View Post
I think that this is mostly an optical illusion. When you put in the oil it looks like there is a lot of fluid in the center of the diff, but most of that oozes out when you put the top sun gear in. If you think about it, there really isn't that much space inside the diff case once it is put together. There is only a small amount of space between the 2 sun gears, and most of that is taken up by the spider gears and shafts. The remaining space is probably just enough to account for heavy coating of the gears.

If someone had a picture of a gear diff cut in half lengthwise I think it would be apparent that there is just not that much space for fluid inside.
I like some of your rationing, there was no oozing though, from my Tekno experience I have the fill level just right I believe, however maybe I just didn't wait long enough for it to settle in? anyhoo it was kinkd of alarming for an OCD guy like myself LOL! And it still ran great through out the cycle of batteries. I am now on to experimenting with the heavier weights this weekend.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:18 PM   #4204
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
Biggest issue for me is not being able to use the front sway bar-constantly popping off even if the cups are glued to the metal.
Those are supposed to use set screws... not glue... lol

I put in longer set screws so they would not strip the plastic as easy.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:44 PM   #4205
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Originally Posted by Sofa King View Post
Those are supposed to use set screws... not glue... lol

I put in longer set screws so they would not strip the plastic as easy.
I know this obviously...lol. They don't work nor did longer ones. When I can keep the cups on the metal then the cups come off the ball stud on the arm. A few locally are having the same issue. Finally just removed it.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:47 PM   #4206
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Originally Posted by Cygnus X View Post
couldnt keep my front sway bar in place either...during a practice run i notice when it popped off, and liked the way the handling changed...so i took it off

a friend painted a body for me with spastix candy orange with silver backing...the orange is very close to the HB orange anodizing

Man, that is soo cool looking!
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:48 PM   #4207
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Originally Posted by RockStew View Post
Wow went out and did some work, come back and the joint is blowing up, I like it!
Yeah I bought the JC clear sheets and set the chassis on it and traced the outline before the build, so now I have a template. And I must say it is very durable 20 bat packs and still in great shape. I'm just lazy. I dig the stickers before the clear idea!
there is a very nice one on here I'll try to find it!
on another note...
Did anyone try RPM ball cups and AE ball studs?
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:09 PM   #4208
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I couldn't find it quickly BUT here is the sight!
http://www.lg1designs.com/
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:10 PM   #4209
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Man, that is soo cool looking!
what wing is that?
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:00 PM   #4210
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
I couldn't find it quickly BUT here is the sight!
http://www.lg1designs.com/
Oh man, the possibilities are endless, baring cost- reward, Thanks
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:45 PM   #4211
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
what wing is that?
sworkz...i love it...possibly the last wing you will need to buy, so flexible and durable...

http://www.sworkz.com/
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:27 PM   #4212
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Originally Posted by Cygnus X View Post
sworkz...i love it...possibly the last wing you will need to buy, so flexible and durable...

http://www.sworkz.com/
I wonder if their yellow wing is like the yellow wheels in RC
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:19 PM   #4213
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Originally Posted by Cygnus X View Post
sworkz...i love it...possibly the last wing you will need to buy, so flexible and durable...

http://www.sworkz.com/
I have been trying one of those too. Love how durable it is... to match the car's durability, but I love how it "flies" with the stock wing in the low position. We need a stock wing that durable!
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:50 PM   #4214
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Here is the chassis protecter lg1 made for me. He used one I cut out from a jc sheet to make the template.
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Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-20140705_115924.jpg  
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:59 PM   #4215
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It's mid August, need more kits to show themselves
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