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Old 08-14-2014, 09:44 PM   #4186
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Build went great. My kit was missing one of the cap head screws that goes on the very nose of the car. During that build step, I got 7 flat head screws and no cap head screw. So I left it empty for now.
I also just finished my build. It was very smooth did it in about 5 hours. But are your wing mounts on right? I just want to make sure since I just built mine in 1 night and maybe I was dozing in the end
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:10 PM   #4187
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I also just finished my build. It was very smooth did it in about 5 hours. But are your wing mounts on right? I just want to make sure since I just built mine in 1 night and maybe I was dozing in the end
Looks like he mounted them so he can run the wing low. I did the same thing. I think Ty runs his this way as well. All you have to do is flip them over if you want to run the wing lower.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:52 PM   #4188
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I also just finished my build. It was very smooth did it in about 5 hours. But are your wing mounts on right? I just want to make sure since I just built mine in 1 night and maybe I was dozing in the end
Yep, I flipped them to put Ty's reedy setup on. I just need to order a few shims and what not for his full setup as a starting point. Just gotta wire up my r10 pro and motor.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:17 AM   #4189
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Your explanation then?
well, if something burns up. it will change , not vanish into thin air.

when you burn something, wouldnt it result in at least some ash?
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:45 AM   #4190
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well, if something burns up. it will change , not vanish into thin air.

when you burn something, wouldnt it result in at least some ash?
What is left behind after water evaporates?

He also said that the gears were well coated in diff oil still so any "ash" would have simply mixed with that and been mostly unnoticed.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:24 AM   #4191
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what you guys think of the AVID LCG aluminum chassis?
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:24 AM   #4192
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for chassis protectors get the stuff from AE or JC
put stickers on first them cover if u want
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:16 AM   #4193
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
for chassis protectors get the stuff from AE or JC
put stickers on first them cover if u want
I run a bit of 3M clear shelf paper as a chassis protector. It may last less than a dozen runs but it is cheap and quick to replace with nothing more than hobby knife. $10 buys a whole lot of shelf paper.. and if clear is not your bag you can get a color or print.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:27 AM   #4194
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Via Avid Facebook

I like it.. but some thoughts:

Flex? Would flex less for sure, would we modify or remove top braces to get some flex back?

Weight? Does not seem like it would be an issue, modern brushless has power to spare and a bit of extra weight might settle the car down on some tracks. Also it would lower the cg a bit by adding the weight at the very bottom. Plus the D413 starts out with a lighter weight than most of the competition in any case.

Cost? Assume this will be a near $100 item.

Durability? What can break the factory chassis I would bet can bend this one. But it would hold up to scuffs and scrapes better although it will suffer the cosmetic damage.

Real world? Would like to see this used in the real world before I drop $$ on it. I assume many people would pick this as they damage the factory chassis, but is it better or a better value?
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:36 AM   #4195
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im like you, Ibenton, not needed, but maybe when a replacement is needed
I know a team driver for Hot Bodies that works for AVID
He doesnt run 1/10 scale so we will see
I know the AVID and Schelle racing aluminum chassis made the AE car better
we will have to wait and see! Nice stuff though! I wish AVID or Schelle or whoever would make different parts for the HB D413
Im sure it's coming!
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:53 AM   #4196
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I would like to see Heftier rear ball cups. That long plastic part of it is a weak point of sorts to me, I have spares and they are cheap enough. But a reinforcing spline 90 degrees to the sides of the long flat part from where it threads to the cup itself would do wonders. As soon as the plastic at that point of the ball cup bends a bit it stretches and is weakened, will end up breaking sooner than later.

Had not had the same issue up front, but the same beefing up would not hurt.

Really have had no other issues.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:13 AM   #4197
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Biggest issue for me is not being able to use the front sway bar-constantly popping off even if the cups are glued to the metal.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:15 AM   #4198
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Biggest issue for me is not being able to use the front sway bar-constantly popping off even if the cups are glued to the metal.
Ah, That... I removed my front sway bar.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:23 AM   #4199
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Riddle me this Batman! So last night I am going to change my center diff oil, keep in mind I have about 20 batteries of run time from the original build. I remove the four screws and lift the spur gear off,(and I'm thinking how awful it will be to clean out) look inside and what the F#!# the oil is gone! the gears are heavily coated mind you but not filled like I put it together. Also note my rig she is K clean, no residue no drops oil anywhere, there was no escape!! So where did it go?
As always for your reading pleasure LOL!!
I think that this is mostly an optical illusion. When you put in the oil it looks like there is a lot of fluid in the center of the diff, but most of that oozes out when you put the top sun gear in. If you think about it, there really isn't that much space inside the diff case once it is put together. There is only a small amount of space between the 2 sun gears, and most of that is taken up by the spider gears and shafts. The remaining space is probably just enough to account for heavy coating of the gears.

If someone had a picture of a gear diff cut in half lengthwise I think it would be apparent that there is just not that much space for fluid inside.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:45 AM   #4200
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couldnt keep my front sway bar in place either...during a practice run i notice when it popped off, and liked the way the handling changed...so i took it off

a friend painted a body for me with spastix candy orange with silver backing...the orange is very close to the HB orange anodizing

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