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Old 07-28-2014, 01:45 PM   #3886
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If any body is interested I have front a arms and ball cups for sale. $10 takes them
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:57 PM   #3887
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Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
TLR makes the 2x1.6 and 2x1.7 pistons.
I don't think the tlr pistons fit because the center hole is too big... I have some and I tried to make them work... I ended up just drilling my own 2 hole
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:36 PM   #3888
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I don't think the tlr pistons fit because the center hole is too big... I have some and I tried to make them work... I ended up just drilling my own 2 hole
We got 3 D413's running TLR pistons with no issues
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:58 PM   #3889
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Anyone have a good starting setup for a large dirt track with low to medium traction thanks for your help
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:59 PM   #3890
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Anyone have a good starting setup for a large dirt track with low to medium traction thanks for your help
and a indoor clay track with a 90ft straight
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:03 PM   #3891
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and a indoor clay track with a 90ft straight
http://www.tytessman.com/setups/d413-setups.php
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:07 PM   #3892
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can anyone chime in on why TY uses negative* arm sweep? My thoughts are it adds a bit of initial steering without being to edgy? basing this on the fact that arm sweep generally adds mid to exit steering.
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:08 AM   #3893
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In two days I now broke three of the rear captured ball cups. None of the three snapped in anything spectacular, not a crash or a cartwheel but just landings off a double. I do not see anything binding or any slop in the rear arms or the rear hub to explain it either. They have broken on both sides of the car as well. It had been running strong for a long time until this.

Bad luck?
Weak point?
Some combo of above?
Or am I missing something?
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:29 AM   #3894
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Had a local sticker guy come up with one from one I cut out. If you're interested he can be contacted at MIKE@LG1DESIGNS.COM.
I'm doing something like that but different...I have a vinyl cutter and can make just about anything
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:36 AM   #3895
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Just finished building the diffs and I just thought it'd be a good idea if they specified how much diff oil to put in by weight as it would make it easier to know how much to put in as the thicker diff oils don't spread easily at all.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:56 AM   #3896
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I also found one of my diffs felt a bit crunchy so I backed off the diff case screws slightly and it was much better. Just hope it doesn't leak.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:19 AM   #3897
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I also found one of my diffs felt a bit crunchy so I backed off the diff case screws slightly and it was much better. Just hope it doesn't leak.
Get a manila folder and cut a new gasket... you can make it double thick and crank it down on that if it was binding.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:41 AM   #3898
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Just finished building the diffs and I just thought it'd be a good idea if they specified how much diff oil to put in by weight as it would make it easier to know how much to put in as the thicker diff oils don't spread easily at all.
MAN, that 100K is so thick! I could barely squeeze bottle hard enough to get it out!
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:51 AM   #3899
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Most of the setups being copied are from high bite tracks. Even Ty's low bite setup was on a track with more bite than many of the indoor tracks in the midwest.

I've found using 20-60k in the center depending on layout is most optimal for my particular favorite track. Also, fill the diffs every time. It will add a consistency factor from one diff build to the next as Ty stated in his how-to video.
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:59 AM   #3900
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did anybody have trouble with their front wheels not fitting the smaller hexes?
they are PL yellow wheels, glued dirt webs front and rears on them, and cant get front to fit!
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