scteonoffroad

iTrader: (23)

Wow. I am half tempted to order an entire D413 from the UK just to get spares for this car. I would spend a small fortune to get a spur gear just so I don't have to see my car sitting on the shelf. Do you think your contact would consider helping a few of us on the thread out..lol

Genebaby

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys, any word on this? I think these would work on my local track and would like to order them with the car. Thanks.

scteonoffroad

iTrader: (23)

I don't see why not. They are 12mm hex. The kit comes with 10mm and 12mm Front wheel hexs so you can use both. The offset could be slightly different so you may want to compare the specs. I am running TLR 22 2.0 2wd front wheels on mine and they work great. Works great since I own a 22 so I can swap front and rear wheels as well between the two cars.

Genebaby

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I'll give them a go.

Genebaby

iTrader: (7)

I've realised I have no idea what pinion to get get, size and even type.

I use Mod 1 pinions in my other car, is this a 48P? What is the kind to get?

I'm thinking 21 is a good starting point for a decent sized track?

Genebaby

iTrader: (7)

Any idea on pinions and shock/diff oils for this track with the kit springs?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Du8-oFISxbU

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

You know, I'm not sure if this came from his personal stash or what... I didn't ask where he got it.

But, as I said, I know he will see my comment, but I'm unaware if he can/will help out others with stripped spur gears.
(It seems to be the only common issue at the early stages of 'mass' ownership.) Although I really think mine failed because of the stone...

Even the guys with cracked rod ends seemed to be acknowledging justified failure due to large crashes.

Cygnus X

for a 6.5 a 21 or 22 pinion, has to be 48 pitch

as for spares, spur, arms, possibly hingepins as they are very thin where they are threaded, rod ends (since some of them are proprietary and cant be replaced with say RPM)...some one broke a shock cap, so maybe one of those....if you want to keep everything orange theres a spacer kit with .5 1 and 2mm spacers

i put my center diff in the lathe yesterday, and removed the teeth i think i can machine a regular spur from say AE and then use screws or epoxy to fasten it, not ideal but given that im desperate to get rolling again i will try it

towers says mid june for parts...hmm thats now....they probably meant around xmas

noproblems209

iTrader: (22)

It can be done without a lathe, I stripped a gear and used this method as a crutch until i was able to get another spur.

I chucked the complete center diff by a outdrive into a drill and then turned down the spur until i had a flat mating surface.


I used an old ae 72t spur without the holes, and used a adjustable circle cutter in the drill press to drill out the center of the spur. I slid the spur over the back side of the diff.


then used 4 bolts and nuts to attach the two together...

boudin4evr

iTrader: (18)

are the spurs machined or molded?
hopefully machined!

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Could you post some pics of that ?

Cygnus X

looks molded, with 6 injection points

noproblems209

iTrader: (22)

out of town this weekend, and i have none on my phone..

here's what i used for the spur, measure twice drill once.

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

So.... back to these spare parts...

Why would someone think it would be a good idea to tell us when they are coming, if there is a chance that they are wrong?

I sell cars for a living, and I'd like to share that:
1. Over Promise and UNDER deliver is a bad idea.
2. NEVER promise what you personally cannot control...

Anyway Tower is now saying "Late June" on everything... and AMain is saying 6/27/14.





PS...

I screwed up, and I may need some help.

I got my new spur gear, and when I went to remove the screw from the diff mount(bottom of the chassis, front brace.) I stripped the screw head. I tried to use a * t8 and that just rounded it more~

I then tried JB weld on the end of an "L" wrench... fail.

So I got my drill and very carefully drilled it OFF...

but now I'm left with a diff brace that has a tiny screw in it.

ANY way to get that out???


I know I think I am going to have to buy a new one....
But I'd like to save it if I can. Just wondering if there is a chance to re-tap it? (It is drilled out to the point of being concave now, so there is no purchase to be had on the screw to back it out....




Thanks

Red78

iTrader: (13)

have had this sitting for a bit..no time...Been working on my car in the garage.