RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

yes, easiest way to get the nose piece in is to remove the shock tower. only four screws. only a minute or two with a driver.

jason snyder posted a close up pic of the hinge pin holders earlier in the thread. look around the time the buggy was first released, whatever date that was.

Cameron Kellogg

iTrader: (45)

That's because your the only one racing one. The only thing that will break HB buggy is another HB buggy.

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

so I am looking for alittle help as I just got the D413 with the Orion 10.1 Pro and Orion Vst2 5.5T. did I make a mistake going with a 5.5T in this car? I have no issues with it in my Xray Xb4 but that doesnt have a center diff. also a good Starting pinon if someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks and cant wait to take this baby outdoors

wayboarder

iTrader: (14)

Your in too deep! Give the motor to me! Jk, you can take the bite out of the motor by adjusting punch, EPA and gearing. Besides, it's a vst, it's like a 6.5 lrp or reedy.

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

yeah I understand I can take punch and timing out, and almost sure I will HAVE TO with that monster 5.5T. but for the heat issue I am reading about, wouldn't going to a 5.5T with less punch & timing be better/cooler then trying to run a 6.5T with more punch & timing. I have a vst2 6.5 and a vst 7.5 That I could goto aswell if Im understanding this backwards

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I need some help on piston selection. I run on low traction very bumpy track. I've been running ty OCRC setup but I feel the car is not stable enough.

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Seems like most people on this thread are going with a 6.5t. I have not received my D413 yet, but I'm considering going with a 7.5t on mine. The indoor tracks I will be driving on only have about 2,000 to 4,000 square feet of surface (depending on which track I'm at). So in my case, I don't see the need for a motor faster than that.

A friend of mine races a TLR 22-4, so I'm not sure how comparable this scenario is. I watched him TQ 4 wheel buggy with 97% consistency out of 20 entries on a 7,500 square foot out door dirt track in middle Tennessee that has a 130 foot straight, a 30 foot long triple that has about 10 feet of approaching distance (he cleared every time), a massive jump on the back straight (also cleared), and several technical areas. It was a bright sunny day, around 85 degrees fahrenheit, and the highest temp on his motor was 165 fahrenheit (no fan on motor). Like I said, not sure how helpful this is because the design of the TLR 22-4 is not the same as the D413. Take it for what it's worth.

logiqal

I prefer lower turn motors; However, if you have heat issues and you can't gear any lower on your pinion gear and/or higher on your spur gear, then you'll need to think about running a higher turn motor. You do not want to decrease punch and/or increase timing if you're having heat issues. It looks like you have plenty of options with the motors you listed though btw...if anyone wants an Orion vst2 motor but wants to pay less, the Peak Vantage 2's are vst2's that are only labeled and colored differently (rebadged for Kyosho).

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

I don't have my car yet. Could anyone measure the front and rear 12mm wheel hex pins with a set of metric calipers (a.k.a. micrometer) and let me know what the thickness is of the retainer pins are ?

Thanks in advance.

Also, (correct me if I'm wrong) I think Ty Tessman may have used the 12mm shock caps off of these Pro-Line short course shocks. Too bad we can't just buy the caps...

http://prolineracing.com/performance...e-shocks-rear/

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

The caps that Ty was/is using are a 1-off that PL made for him.

at this point they are not available to us.

Mopar

Take the rear bar off and runn the heavy front to tame the twitchy steering. If you want to run the rear bar you'll need to make a heavier front. I run a 1.95 front with the silver rear [1.2].

scteonoffroad

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Mopar and RCFreak for the tips. I removed the rear sway bar and installed the front plastic body piece. Its now complete.


Since I am running my ESC is the rear I am running the shorty forward so that may be contributing to the twitchy steering as well. Any thoughts on battery placement. I don't think the setup sheets tell the battery position do they?

A few other setup things in case others are curious.. I am running a 23T pinion, 15K, 100k, 3K and the LRP 6.5 motor. I am running 11 degrees kickup in the front and antisquat in the rear at 1 degree.

Mopar

I run the battery in mid position, esc in back as well. People were saying that the heavier the center diff oil the more aggressive the car feels, which is why I am running 10k / 30k / 3k. One guy over seas went from 100k to 50k and said it was more drivable.

Beaker151

iTrader: (8)

Contact Marcus at www.rcshox.com he either has or will very have his two stage pistons for the d413 shocks. Down here in Houston are tracks are outdoors, dusty and rough; his pistons work like a champ.

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

I have pretty much the same setup. Same motor but the older R10 ESC. I use a 21T pinion. At Trackside, I turn it down the EPA to 85 and never got above 135 for temp. At Leisure Hour's indoor track (which is larger), I ran at 100% and never got above 130 (I think the longer straight allowed for more cooling. I only run a fan on the ESC and not secondary one yet. So if I see temps rise, I still have another option. I think you will be fine with your choices.