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Old 05-16-2014, 08:41 AM   #2641
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Originally Posted by yzracer758 View Post
JP Edition #001 & #002 4-Pole Setup(On the Left)

Curious what these are weighing at with graphite chassis and shorty lipo.

Wonder why Torrence didn't go with an Aluminum chassis (like most others).
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Last edited by skrichter; 05-16-2014 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:38 AM   #2642
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
all this talk about purple stuff... how 'bout JP get some BROWN dirt on those things!
YES! and post setups for outdoor low traction and indoor clay medium traction!
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:47 AM   #2643
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YES! and post setups for outdoor low traction and indoor clay medium traction!
Posted one for clay medium traction on the last page.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/hotbodi...ies2014050507/
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:00 AM   #2644
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Curious what these are weighing at with graphite chassis and shorty lipo.

Wonder why Torrence did go with an Aluminum chassis (like most others).
One of the reasons for cf might be that it will return to its original shape after hitting stuff. Even the most durable car will be useless with a bent chassis.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:13 AM   #2645
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Curious what these are weighing at with graphite chassis and shorty lipo.

Wonder why Torrence did go with an Aluminum chassis (like most others).
around 1750 g.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:14 AM   #2646
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One of the reasons for cf might be that it will return to its original shape after hitting stuff. Even the most durable car will be useless with a bent chassis.
Aluminum chassis is:
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)

And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:47 AM   #2647
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Aluminum chassis is:
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)

And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
If it is more flexible than a cf chassis, chances of bending it are there if you hit something hard enough. Also, there have been issues with bent aluminum chassis plates out of the box (iirc members of our club had issues withTeam Durango and TLR chassis plates, which were replaced without any problems)
I don't think most racers will have issues with their aluminum chassis plates, but some may have. Billy Easton chose a plastic chassis over aluminum for the Serpent Spyder and stated the possibility of bending as one of the reasons.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:04 AM   #2648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Curious what these are weighing at with graphite chassis and shorty lipo.

Wonder why Torrence did go with an Aluminum chassis (like most others).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sofa King View Post
around 1750 g.
After adding a fan for the motor I'm at 1713g. Only lightening has been ti - turnbuckles. Oh, and alloy wheel nuts.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:19 AM   #2649
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu View Post
Aluminum chassis is:
Half the price. (Most likely Less than half)
Not afraid of outdoor rough track, fine with scratch or peel off.
More flex ( stock thin upper deck will be in danger).
Work as a heat sink(10-20F motor temp difference in Durango)

And what are the chance bending ur aluminum chassis?
I bent my dex410 chassis by casing a quad jump. Car never drove the same even after I tried straightening it and wasn't cheap to replace. My temps are lower on the d413 than my dex410 were. I've ran my trce slash (which is cf) all over the place. Bashing the crap out of it. The chassis on that looks cleaner than my sct410 which is a track only vehicle. Cf or aluminum whatever they both have advantages and disadvantages. Cf looks dead sexy though.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:33 PM   #2650
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I'm at 1666g
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:42 PM   #2651
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minor gripes:

-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.

-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.

-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?

Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.

Can't wait to run it.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:51 PM   #2652
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-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.

Agree! I just used Shoe Goo to keep the pins in, works like a charm!

-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.

Agree! I just loosened the four shock tower assembly screws a bit and slipped it in no problem though.

-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?

Keeps the bearing in place I believe.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:09 PM   #2653
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
minor gripes:

-for such a nice kit, not having some kind of clamping hex so the pins don't fall out seems like a miss.

-at the point the instructions tell you to put the body on, it is a PITA to get the nose piece on. you basically have to wedge and mash it in between the triangulated shock tower. good thing this is just going to be a practice body. hopefully the proline nose piece is a bit more narrow.

-the spring clip on the ends of the diff pinions are a pain to get on. torrence, what do these do?

Overall a real nice build. SOOO nice not having ANY parts come from a tree. As has been said the build is nicely laid out with parts bags that match instructions to the tee.

Can't wait to run it.
at the rear you can substitute the hex with a typical 12mm clamping hex off a touring car (with shorter pin). at the front the hex width is too thin to fit a clamping hex. do any other wheelers have a clamping hex up front? not sure why there's such a resistance against the grease method that I recommend.... it works, it's easy to remove, no need to wait for it to dry, it's lightweight, it's cheap, etc....

yeah the nose installation is pain. I have no excuse. but I thought it would have disrupted the 'flow' of the build if we put the nose on earlier in the build.

the spring clip prevents the input gear from jamming into the diff, which tightens the gear mesh. and it keeps the bearing from falling off.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:19 PM   #2654
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
at the rear you can substitute the hex with a typical 12mm clamping hex off a touring car (with shorter pin). at the front the hex width is too thin to fit a clamping hex. do any other wheelers have a clamping hex up front? not sure why there's such a resistance against the grease method that I recommend.... it works, it's easy to remove, no need to wait for it to dry, it's lightweight, it's cheap, etc....

yeah the nose installation is pain. I have no excuse. but I thought it would have disrupted the 'flow' of the build if we put the nose on earlier in the build.

the spring clip prevents the input gear from jamming into the diff, which tightens the gear mesh. and it keeps the bearing from falling off.
can't the diff case housing capture both of the bearings and then maybe flange the end of the gear to keep it from going in? regardless, i still love the design of not having a separate gear and outdrive cup of some sort. the spring clip is only a minor irritation.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:30 PM   #2655
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
at the rear you can substitute the hex with a typical 12mm clamping hex off a touring car (with shorter pin). at the front the hex width is too thin to fit a clamping hex. do any other wheelers have a clamping hex up front? not sure why there's such a resistance against the grease method that I recommend.... it works, it's easy to remove, no need to wait for it to dry, it's lightweight, it's cheap, etc....
.
You know, I didn't like the idea of not having a clamping hex at first. I looked through my many different ones that I had from TLR but none were right, I think all to wide. Anyway, so I tried the grease method and I have no issues. I still worry about it but so far, every time I've checked it, the pin has yet to start slipping out. Always staying nice and centered. So it seems to be working for me. I've had another car where the front pin is so tight it is almost impossible to remove. I much prefer this solution.
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