jdmjimmy

iTrader: (4)

4wd front hexlite wheels

Jakesterama

iTrader: (68)

They make (made) different ones for Kyosho, AE, and Losi. Checking at Tower, looks like they have discontinued all but the yellow Kyosho, is that what you ordered? Assuming the AKA's are the same measurements as the OEM Kyosho front rims, they should work great.

jdmjimmy

iTrader: (4)

Awesome , I feel much better now. And yes I got the 3pak of kyo wheels in yellow since all the white rims were discontinued. So I'm glad I bought these based on your stats. Thx for the reply

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Concerned about heat myself, I've been spending a lot of time pestering everyone on this thread, and our friendly folks at Tekin about proper gearing, and motor selection for the D413.

The rep at Tekin converted the "turn" rating on their Redline Gen2 motors to "kv" ratings for me over the phone.

Tekin Redline Gen2 "turn" to "kv" conversion (per Tekin rep)

6.5t = 6700kv
7.5t = 6100kv
8.5t = 5300kv
9.5t = 4900kv
10.5t = 4500kv
13.5t = 3500kv
17.5t = 2500kv

From what I hear, every manufacturer uses different methods to figure "turn" & "kv" ratings. So trying to use this conversion for a brand that is NOT Tekin, will probably not be accurate.

I've also noticed a couple guys using 6.5t motors on this thread trying to gear down as much as possible because of heat. I believe the smallest pinion they have been able to fit is a 19 tooth. Also, I think T. Deguzman mentioned he's running a 6.5t with a 21 tooth pinion. So you may want to consider having some pinions smaller than a 23 tooth on hand just in case.

Also, just as a note. The higher the "boost or timing" is set, the higher the temps will go.

Here's Tekin's customer service # 208-634-5559
The reps at Tekin provide the best customer service I've ever experienced with R/C. They're friendly, happy to help, and they know their product very well.

Hope you find this info helpful. Cheers

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Novak

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm

Speed Passion

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...eb25th2010.pdf

The following information is based from the most popular motors I see at local tracks that I attend. Each of the following manufacturers have more motors available than I have listed. I have acquired this information directly from the manufacturers.

Team Orion Vortex VST2 Pro 540 Modified 2P
5.5T = 7770kV
6.5T = 6750kv
7.5T = 6200kV
8.5T = 5400kV
9.5T = 4940kV
10.5T = 4570kV
17.5T = 2600kV

Team Trinity D 3.5 motors
5.5t = 9000Kv
6.5t = 6910Kv
7.5t = 6850Kv
8.5t = 6300Kv
9.5t = 6000Kv
17.5t = 2600kV (ROAR spec version) Product Code: TEP1082

Tekin Redline Gen2 (had to call Tekin to get this info)
6.5t = 6700kv
7.5t = 6100kv
8.5t = 5300kv
9.5t = 4900kv
10.5t = 4500kv
13.5t = 3500kv
17.5t = 2500kv

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

Which is why I mentioned a "shim kit" to compensate across the board.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Just wanted to give everybody a heads up, I ran the car last night for the first time. Started with tessmanns OCRC setup, dropped the ride height a little but car felt great. As far the heat issue I put a muchmore 30x30 fan next to the motor and the car didn't go over 120 degrees. I think some of u that are having the issue have a gear mesh issue. My esc fan broke off mid day, and since I didn't have a spare I continued to run. Esc never got over 115 degrees.

PetRock

Slightly off-topic: but why haven't we moved entirely to KV ratings? If you tell me it's a 540 sensored motor that's 4600kv I can make a very good guess at gearing (and make even more accurate changes if I have a working ratio but am switching to a motor with a different KV). Telling me how many turns a motor has tells me nothing without an additional trip to Google: with different gauges of wire and different out-of-the-box timings the KV of 2 different mod X-turn motors can be very different.

Manufacturers: Feed your motor 8.4v, configured how I'd get when I open the box, measure the RPM, and slap a sticker on the outside with the KV rating

nv529

iTrader: (53)

There's a error in the manual. Spur gear is Part number 113071

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I figured that was the root cause. But someone from HPI needs to tell Tower that they had them switched. Maybe they will realize it when they see an unusually high number of orders for gear shims and very few spur gears. But as of yesterday, Tower did not believe me and thought that it was my error on ordering the wrong item.

mes

Still we'd have no information on torque at all. Maybe manufacturers don't want their products to be easily comparable at all, and that's ok because their motors have a different feel thant can't be explained by specs alone. I found Speed Passion, Orion and Vampire Racing motors to be a lot smoother than e.g. Thunder Power motors. If you like the feel of a certain manufacturer's motors, stick to them no matter what others may print on their boxes or in their ads.

Damn, I fell into the off-topic trap... Let's get out of here!

GGREAVES

Shim top decks, bulk heads, shock tower mounts and then that puts the geometry out on the front and rear arms, droop, body mounts too high and the list goes on....
Not a smart idea

AlderBoy

iTrader: (17)

Hi Torrance,

Have a couple questions. I am on Ty's Reedy setup.

I noticed that at full shock compression the inner rear camber link's ballcup compresses into the aluminum mount quite a lot. Is that normal/acceptable? His setup has 0 spacers there. I changed to 1mm and it doesn't hit the mount as much but still a little.

Second, I have my gear mesh set pretty much perfect but still hear a pretty good whine at speed. Is that just the sound the center diff makes with 100K in it, or do I need my mesh really loose?

Cygnus X

Heat....i run just about all classes og 1/10 cars on and off road...TC 17.5 being my hottest car of them all....in 4wd buggy I have been running 6.5t in them all including in the heavy Schumacher sx3 that's heavy and runs 3 belts...and b44.2 ....im in nor cal and it gets hot ...so its simple

Take timing/boost/turbo back to 0 deg in ESC
Dial back timing on the motor end bell to 0
Punch some holes in body front and rear...I tried holes on the side of the body and it helps with motors that have vented cans..but not much
Put a heatsink on it..(possibly with a fan on it)

My favorite though is just to buy a fan...doesn't have to be particular powerful as long as it moves the hot air away from the motor...with a few vent holes it will escape and lower temps quite a bit.

Once motor has been overheated...it will overheat easier in the future...but a new rotor and a drop of bearing oil can usually fix it...if you bought a cheap motor think about what makes it cheap...poor bearings,loose tolerances, weak magnets...etc it all adds heat...so when you buy a top of the line kit....why cheap out on a motor...and if you bought a top of the line motor why cheap out cooling it....

BTW most of my fans are mounted with 3m outdoor super strength double sided tape...it stays put just fine....I prefer sunon maglev 5v fan and plug them into the receiver simple and easy...I have tried lots of other brands both cheap and expensive and the sunon's have latest the longest and tend to have higher static pressure... And their frames are strong

toddmanley

I saw one of these cars running last night at NorCal and it was looking really good. Might make this 2wd buggy guy dip his toes into the 4wd world.