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Old 05-05-2014, 07:45 AM   #2296
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Made my own chassis protector from generic jconcepts film. A little patience, t-square and a razor blade.
bad angle or does the left arm (visually right in this pic) have more toe than the other?
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:31 AM   #2297
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Nice!

Didn't realize the build tips had been updated. Did you use servo tape to hold them down? Just wondering if they are more to keep the body from folding in or if you use them to keep the body on without clips?
yeah just servo tape. they're just so the body doesn't tuck. i still use the body clips.

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Torrance, is this slop normal and deliberate?
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Yeah, a little bit of slop is needed so everything moves properly and doesn't change over time as things wear in. I think what we are saying is that it just feels like there is slighly more slop in the Ackermann bar than with the rest of the car. I am sure it is fine, but you know how we RC nerds can be when we sit around at the bench playing with our new cars before we get a chance to throw down on the track
i usually design in some slop in the car. i posted a long explanation before but i couldn't find it. it may have been on the D812 thread. anyway a little bit of slop makes it so you don't have to 'break-in' a new car and it stays more consistent from the time it is freshly built till it's several race days old. this also keeps you from having to chase a setup for a tight car to a sloppy car. however having said that the steering rack did end up more sloppy than intended. i had plans to tighten it up but Ty never mentioned it so it didn't get too urgent on my to-do list. on my car i found an axle shim from a touring car that fit over the rack bushing. i used that to tighten the fit a little, or as posted by someone before you can shorten the bushing with a dremel as well.

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I lost one of those little orange things that keep the sway bar from moving around. Where can I find a quick replacement
those are similar to touring car units. im sure you can find a yokomo or xray or even TCXX substitute.

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T. Deguzman or Tye,

Can you guys give a suggestion of what range of pinion tooth sizes might be good for me to keep in stock for the D413 ? I'll be running a 6.5 turn motor.

I race at 7 different tracks that have anywhere from 2,000 to 12,000 square feet of racing surface.

The smallest track's (2,000 square feet) longest straight is about 30 feet long.

The larger tracks have straights around 130 feet long.

Thanks for the help
i use 21T on my 6.5 motor. i think the highest i've gone is 22T but i haven't driven on a super huge track.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:36 AM   #2298
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Jakesterama, Thanks man !

At least that gives me a range of pinions to include on my initial purchase.

I noticed you mentioned "This is based on setups and recommendations for other 4wd vehicles."

Does the D413 have the same tooth count on the internal diff gears as other 4wd 10th scale buggies ?
Most are different, but because they use the same diameter tire, it is relatively easy to compute a FDR (final drive ratio) to compare. If you are interested, a couple of the popular internal ratios -
b44, 2.5:1
Dex410, 2.47:1
Xb4, 2.5:1
Cat Sx3, (2.2:1, 2.6:1, or 3.0:1) by changing pulleys
ZX5FS2, 2.6:1
22-4, 2.30:1
D413, 3.31:1

The 22-4 (internal ratio 2.3:1 84T spur) has a table of pinions in the manual for different motors, that I have copied here and listed the equivalent pinion to use in the D413 (internal ratio 43:14 72T spur). Obviously you can't have a fraction of a tooth, but I left the decimal in to see if it was closer one way of the other. Again, always better to start low CHECK YOUR TEMPS!

Code:
Motor	22-4 Pinion	FDR	D413 equiv pinion
5.5	17		11.36	21.0
6.5	18		10.73	22.2
7.5	19		10.17	23.4
8.5	20		9.66	24.7
9.5	21		9.20	25.9
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:28 AM   #2299
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I thought I saw on one or more of Ty's set-up sheets that he ran a 25t on his 6.5 motor. That was why I started out at 34t on my 9.5 motor. I went to a 35t to help control wheel spin. Geared as I am with the default ESC settings temps run at 164* w/o a fan on the motor.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:36 AM   #2300
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I ran 6.5T with 23 or 24 pinion and my motor got around 150F with the esc at default

I run a 7.5T reedy sonic mach2 with a 24 pinion, with a bit of turbo for the straightaway ( is 40 yards long ) and the temps are 160 after 10 minutes runtime. and it took 2200mah from my 4200mah shorty
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:11 AM   #2301
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Mean Green!
Time for some HB decals.

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Old 05-05-2014, 11:29 AM   #2302
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I noticed Tower pushed the parts date back to mid May now Hope it's as durable as stated. Only downside of a new wheeler is parts support takes a while.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:33 AM   #2303
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did I mentioned before that this car is strong like a tank?
I have quite a few test sessions ran more than 20 packs and still nothing broke.
Im still learning to drive 4wd style, Im a rooky so I make a lot of mistakes. Like hitting the brakes in full flight and landing upside down on the shocktowers, cartwheeling, hitting the pipes or the boarding at full speed, countless times.
Bumping into 4wd SCT's at full throttle, and this car has nothing broke. nothing.

I see others coming to the track, and going home after 2 laps because they break something.

let me say again. you can drive this car at 110% and you dont have to be scared that you will break something. it is not going to happen.

I have quite a few parts, but I dont think I will need something soon. Im honest about this statement and will report the first time I break something on this car.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:43 AM   #2304
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From the Novak website -
Code:
Motor	4wd FDR	D413 pinion
4.5	12	19.8
5.5	11	21.7
6.5	10	23.8
7.5	9.5	25.1
8.5	9	26.5
10.5	8	29.8
13.5	7	34.0
17.5	6	39.7
http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/26

I think because this buggy is going to be lighter than the average 4wd, you can probably get away with more aggressive gearing.

edit I'm dumb
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Last edited by Jakesterama; 05-05-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:44 AM   #2305
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
did I mentioned before that this car is strong like a tank?
I have quite a few test sessions ran more than 20 packs and still nothing broke.
Im still learning to drive 4wd style, Im a rooky so I make a lot of mistakes. Like hitting the brakes in full flight and landing upside down on the shocktowers, cartwheeling, hitting the pipes or the boarding at full speed, countless times.
Bumping into 4wd SCT's at full throttle, and this car has nothing broke. nothing.

I see others coming to the track, and going home after 2 laps because they break something.

let me say again. you can drive this car at 110% and you dont have to be scared that you will break something. it is not going to happen.

I have quite a few parts, but I dont think I will need something soon. Im honest about this statement and will report the first time I break something on this car.
Great to hear! Maybe my no-spare-parts-ordered plan will work out in the end!!
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:22 PM   #2306
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Going up in pinion size give you more top speed, less bottom end. Going up in spur gives you less top speed, more bottom end.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:38 PM   #2307
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what yellow wheels are yall running? (I use yellow wheels so I can see and it goes with my colors)
JCONCEPTS AE front wheels for a b44.2 are narrow compared to losi wheels? Proline? anybody?
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:02 PM   #2308
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what yellow wheels are yall running? (I use yellow wheels so I can see and it goes with my colors)
JCONCEPTS AE front wheels for a b44.2 are narrow compared to losi wheels? Proline? anybody?
I use the AKA Evo fronts for 22-4 as they use the 12mm hex. When I used to run 10mm hexes in the past they would strip the wheel, and always on the left. And the smaller hex is actually 9.8mm.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:08 PM   #2309
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DE racing 22-4 wheels on mine.

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Old 05-05-2014, 02:09 PM   #2310
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what yellow wheels are yall running? (I use yellow wheels so I can see and it goes with my colors)
JCONCEPTS AE front wheels for a b44.2 are narrow compared to losi wheels? Proline? anybody?
The Yokomo wheels has a perfekt fit! Front and rear!
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