chinamonkey7

iTrader: (4)

Here is My D413.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I have to say working on this car is great!! I'm used to kyosho stuff and to change rear toe anti squat is beyond stupid. With this car it's done in no time. Well done Torrance. The only question I have is my car seems to have some play between the steering assembly. I followed the instructions. Did I do something wrong?

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

T-1hour!!! So geeked right now.

Mopar

I found that a lot of the play came from the bushing being .5mm taller than the rack. When you tighten the screws it leaves play. I dremeled the height down to minimum clearance. Now I tighten the screws down then back off just till there's no binding. I also notice play in all the ball cups, and before I drove the car it had me a little concerned. After driving I have no worries. Some cars like a little (for lack of a better word) slop, while others don't.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Great info, time to dremel!

Jakesterama

iTrader: (68)

Since I am coming from a ZX5 and have quite a bit of mounted tires left, I measured a set of rims and compared them to the included rims with the kit. I found that using ZX5 fronts will increase absolute width (outside rim face to outside rim face) 1mm and will decrease mid tire to mid tire width by .6mm. This is because even though the backspacing is deeper, the width of the rim is also more.

The rear ZX5 rims are interestingly 0.7mm narrower, but the backspacing is also 0.7mm less, so the absolute width is unchanged and the mid tire to mid tire width is increased 0.6mm.

I had to take a body reamer to the rear tire's axle holes and remove a little bit of material to fit the larger axle of the D413. I will use my ZX5 rims without a second thought!

Rybeau40

Build went well. Ended up missing bag Q, which are the wheel nuts. Also, having some steering slop issues with the ackerman bar.

Mopar

Repeat: I found that a lot of the play came from the bushing being .5mm taller than the rack. When you tighten the screws it leaves play. I dremeled the height down to minimum clearance. Now I tighten the screws down then back off just till there's no binding. I also notice play in all the ball cups, and before I drove the car it had me a little concerned. After driving I have no worries. Some cars like a little (for lack of a better word) slop, while others don't.

Jakesterama

iTrader: (68)

I was going to race today, but I stayed up too late last night getting my 22T setup. Going to hit up the track tomorrow for open practice though!




Thanks for the idea on the bushing Mopar, mine is also pretty loose.

erevo1*16 - I did the same thing to get to the pinion set screw, good idea!

lbenton

iTrader: (48)

I think we have all the same issues.

I went through my trash bin and found the missing bag Q with the wheel nuts.

I noticed the slop in the bar as well as anybody that has looked at my car, not sure what to do for a fix, but a ball bearing style system instead of those grommets would do it, not sure if there is room in there though for that kind of hardware in the aftermarket upgrade world.

And this issue about the pins... I may have a solution for this.

I put a small bend in the pins used for the rear wheels.. it is just enough to bind them in place without the wheel on. But not enough to make it hard to push them out with a small hex tool.

As for the fronts. I am have not tried it yet, but think I will try to fashion a small disk of duct tape to put on there since a simple bend to the pin will not solve the issue up front and the pin is in a trench on the outer side of the hex. Maybe it will hold it there enough that you can work on the car with the wheels off and not worry about the pins running away.

Already lost one of the 12mm pins on mine and had to cut out a piano wire solution to get me back on the road again.



So to all this, if there is a revision in order I would ask for two things that are my only gripe to be addressed.

1 - tighten up the ackerman bar
2 - a way to capture those floating pins in the wheel hexes.

Edit - Did a quickie fix on the front, I think it will hold well enough without holding too well like an adhesive might.



I will have to try that, the slop there in the bar just bugs me.. But it will not be today.

Rybeau40

Did the dremel fix. Wheel nuts were in the garbage...lol. Also, I used some of my tlr black grease on the pins and it worked great. Just put some in the slots/holes.


Overall, I wish more companies would package their kits as compactly and nicely as this one. Real nice job on the bag layouts/labeling. Pretty sure a 12 year old could tackle this build. Now time to wait for some electronics this week.

lbenton

iTrader: (48)

It was shoebox sized, But I will add that my Durango DEX408T (1:8 truggy) came in an alarmingly small box as well.

Maybe this is a trend? It would cut down on the shipping expense I guess.

Mopar

Next thing will be to fab a new front bar. I am making an .062in or 1.58mm bar, this should allow me to use the existing rear bars. I forgot to include interior pics earlier.

murky123

I dont understand the complaints about the slop in the steering assembly / ackerman bar? does the car not steer? what problems does it bring?

I have noticed the slop also. but it is not a problem nor an issue at all. well at least I find it not to be a problem.

20+ pack ran with my d413 and it is still fine. no issue

AlderBoy

iTrader: (17)

I see folks are mixing and matching Ty's setups with little bits of their own ideas and have varying degrees of success. I recommend you try a full setup from Ty with no mix and match. He puts a lot of time into each setup with every little detail working together with others. You may just find that his medium grip setup actually works well for medium grip.