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Old 04-30-2014, 11:08 AM   #2116
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The only down side to Martin's app is that it costs $10 a year. But it does include a generic set up sheet so you can store your set ups on the site in either private or public fashion so can be shared. P.S. I'm bored right now cause my car will be delivered today (by 2pm?) and am just waiting.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:31 AM   #2117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mes View Post
Thank you Torrance, and no problem, Jakesterama! The "2WD" must have hidden somewhere between that caged bullet connectors...

I've never had an HPI/HB car before, but the D413 may very well change that, although I am Yokomo fanboy and my driving style does not suit 4WD at all - I am not trigger happy enough!
haha! I like you mes! This is my first new HB car, and so far (building) I really like it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I understand that part, What I wanted to know is the difference between
(1 DOt F/F 1 dot F/R ) and (2 dot F/F 2 dot F/R) They are both 10 degrees kick up.

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Originally Posted by Mopar View Post
For the same angle of kick-up or anti-squat, a shorter or longer mount will allow you to change the roll center.
I was kind of bummed that the kit only included 2 sets of each dot, so you can't recreate 2dot/2dot 1dot/2dot setup Ty uses. I went 1 degree more and tried to keep the roll center about the same since I tend to like a little more kick up for smoothing jumping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erevo1*16 View Post
Anyone else get a pre-load spring collar that has a 'dimple' in it?
...
I used 1.3 pistions, with 35wt TLR oil both front and rear.
I ended up using 20k for the front, and 7k in the rear from Team Associated, and went with the stock 100k for the center.
...
Nice touch on the diagrams in the manual for all the links T.D! It was really easy to do compared to a few other kits I've built.
Mine were all a-ok, sorry yours had a little dimple! I went 1.5mm 35wt / 1.6mm 30wt and 10k/100k/3k as an amalgamation of Ty's OCRC setup, what Torrance has said, and what I found out with my ZX5 w/Durango gear diffs on local tracks. All suspension geometry is from Ty's OCRC setup, except for the kick-up.

I didn't think the manual did the best job at illustrating keeping the notch to one side or the other when building the links. The steering links have both notches pointed outwards, and the rear links have both notches pointed inward. I didn't really notice till I had built my first steering link, so on my car, all my notches are to the passenger (right) side, whereas traditionally you build with notches to the driver (left) side. Not really a big deal though, just have to remember to spin them backwards on my D413!
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:36 PM   #2118
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I was kind of bummed that the kit only included 2 sets of each dot, so you can't recreate 2dot/2dot 1dot/2dot setup Ty uses. I went 1 degree more and tried to keep the roll center about the same since I tend to like a little more kick up for smoothing jumping.

Mine were all a-ok, sorry yours had a little dimple! I went 1.5mm 35wt / 1.6mm 30wt and 10k/100k/3k as an amalgamation of Ty's OCRC setup, what Torrance has said, and what I found out with my ZX5 w/Durango gear diffs on local tracks. All suspension geometry is from Ty's OCRC setup, except for the kick-up.

I didn't think the manual did the best job at illustrating keeping the notch to one side or the other when building the links. The steering links have both notches pointed outwards, and the rear links have both notches pointed inward. I didn't really notice till I had built my first steering link, so on my car, all my notches are to the passenger (right) side, whereas traditionally you build with notches to the driver (left) side. Not really a big deal though, just have to remember to spin them backwards on my D413![/QUOTE]

I agree about the dot thing. Especially since you cant buy them anywhere right now. The OCRC setup that I used had 2k rear diff. This was from Ty's website. Also wished they included more alum washers. I agree also on the links but I made sure I did mine all the same so it would not be an issue. The stock kick up is 8 degrees and Ty's is 10 so I went right in the middle. Car looks great. Now I have to paint the body. Going for an F1 Look
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:38 PM   #2119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post

I went 1.5mm 35wt / 1.6mm 30wt and 10k/100k/3k as an amalgamation of Ty's OCRC setup, what Torrance has said,

whereas traditionally you build with notches to the driver (left) side.
-I caught that too with the notch markings in the diagrams, but the "true size" and orientation of the rod ends were great. I only needed to measure once for each link! But, yeah, I made all my link's notch marks on the LEFT. so I don't need to remember; Remembering stuff is overrated.

The reason I posted about my 'dimple' wasn't to gripe~ I ain't mad about it. (kind of a bummer, but no biggie.) but if there are 15 guys who have the kit, and 6 of them have a dimple... HPI/HB and Torrance deserve to know so they can get the issue fixed.


You know, I looked at Ty's set-ups and I believe I've read the entire thread here now, and I've watched countless videos on youtube about set-up...

-I run a Mugen MBX-6eco, with the only changes from BOX STOCK being a 1up on rear spring rate, and went from their 400wt shock oil to 30wt losi. and added some droop, and added some protection (skids. and shock tower bra) and for the way I drive, it's fantastic.

That being said, I do NOT drive like Ty.... his set up help is appreciated, but; as much as I'd like to drive as FAST as Ty, that probably isn't going to happen, and even the track at OCRC


This is OCRC Right???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cp40GBVxE2I

Well, this is the track 'Surface' (not track)I'll be running on at my local outdoor here in MN, it has a 1/8 and a 1/10 track. (please be nice, it was half way through my first lap, on an all new layout, and the first time with a radio in my hand since September, since my 4 year old learned to ski this winter instead of snow bashing the RCs. *excuses are like a***oles, everybody has one*
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tNLYdTy8qI
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:11 PM   #2120
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hi guys still waiting on my kit from tower- says early may now, so there is some light at the end of the tunnel,lol. I was wondering if there is a difference between these two speed controls, or is it just user preference, any help and honest feedback would be much appreciated, still trying to sort my electronics out- but i am sticking with a 6.5 turn motor.
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:25 PM   #2121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erevo1*16 View Post
Anyone else get a pre-load spring collar that has a 'dimple' in it?

Mine looks to be 'pre' anodizing...

I was trying to thread it on and I thought it felt a little harder to do than the other one (this one was #2 I grabbed in the Bag-A-Fronts.)

Not a huge deal by any means, but because of the flat spot, when I threaded it on, it took a lot of the black anodized covering off of the shock's thread peaks.

Just wanted to share to make you guys aware, to make sure it's a 1-in-a-howevermany... rather than each kit having one~




There are supposed to be FOUR dimples per collar. The reason for those is because i like to adjust my collars in 1/4 turn increments. This way they're easier to count and you can set left and right equally.



As far as the tightness they were intentional because some drivers like them tight but if you want to loosen the threading action you can cut a portion off the o-ring inside the collar (see build tip #3 on page 1).

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Old 04-30-2014, 01:28 PM   #2122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I understand that part, What I wanted to know is the difference between
(1 DOt F/F 1 dot F/R ) and (2 dot F/F 2 dot F/R) They are both 10 degrees kick up.
Less dots = higher hinge pin (higher roll center)
More dots = lower hinge pin (lower roll center)
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:29 PM   #2123
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FYI absolute hobbyz has thd kit instock
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:32 PM   #2124
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Originally Posted by erevo1*16 View Post
That being said, I do NOT drive like Ty.... his set up help is appreciated, but; as much as I'd like to drive as FAST as Ty, that probably isn't going to happen, and even the track at OCRC
you'd be surprised how Ty's setups are EASY to drive. his speed comes not from a nervous handling car but from its stability.
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:33 PM   #2125
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Torrance, I think he is talking about the small manufacturing defect on the flat part where the spring would seat.
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:46 PM   #2126
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Torrance, I think he is talking about the small manufacturing defect on the flat part where the spring would seat.
oh that? these parts are spit from a CNC machine into a bucket then transported to the anodizer. sometimes some dings may happen. it's difficult to avoid. that seems pretty minor though. i doubt it'll affect the car's performance, and once the spring is on you won't even see it.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:03 PM   #2127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
FYI absolute hobbyz has thd kit instock
Any idea how many they have on hand?
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:24 PM   #2128
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My order with tower has changed to all back orders now early May, before today the parts were late April and only the kit early May, curious to know when the next shipment is in relation to their early May quote.....

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Old 04-30-2014, 04:47 PM   #2129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I actually read the 1st page but did not see any info on this. Im not talking about the steering arm piece. Im talking about the metal mounts that hold the arm.
Oops, my bad.
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:19 PM   #2130
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Anyone finding wheels available anywhere?
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