mes

Thank you Torrance, and no problem, Jakesterama! The "2WD" must have hidden somewhere between that caged bullet connectors...

I've never had an HPI/HB car before, but the D413 may very well change that, although I am Yokomo fanboy and my driving style does not suit 4WD at all - I am not trigger happy enough!

JDJamminX1

iTrader: (3)

Nope just a little dirt

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Received my kit today and started the build, the only stuff that I have to do is the shocks and electronic mouting. Quick question, are u guys puting loctite on the 3x20 that screw into the bulkhead?

mes

If it is a metal to metal connection, I'd always use loctite.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I have to say I'm very impressed with the build so far! Couple of small details I think we're left out from thd manual but other then that it's coming along great!

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Torrence can u explain the difference between the arm mounts
I'm using ty setup from OCRC which he used 2 dot f/f and 2dot f/r which gave 10 degrees kick up, if I used 1 dot f/f and f/r it would also give me 10 degrees. Is the a difference?

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Check out the 1st post on this thread. It explains this in detail. Plus there are video links explaining design and set up options on the D413. It's really good stuff. You'll like it.

derekk

When building the car, dremel out a little of the chassis behind the front hinge pins where the nyloc nut is, it's just a little close to the chassis. In a heavy knock the nut can hit the chassis and that's the last part you want to damage and have to replace.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I actually read the 1st page but did not see any info on this. Im not talking about the steering arm piece. Im talking about the metal mounts that hold the arm.

T. Deguzman

Refer to the setup sheet in the manual. On the left side of sheet there are charts that show all the resulting kickup and antisquat angles from the possible dot combinations.

erevo1*16

iTrader: (8)

Anyone else get a pre-load spring collar that has a 'dimple' in it?

Mine looks to be 'pre' anodizing...

I was trying to thread it on and I thought it felt a little harder to do than the other one (this one was #2 I grabbed in the Bag-A-Fronts.)

Not a huge deal by any means, but because of the flat spot, when I threaded it on, it took a lot of the black anodized covering off of the shock's thread peaks.

Just wanted to share to make you guys aware, to make sure it's a 1-in-a-howevermany... rather than each kit having one~



I had a long night and got to Bag D, and sanded/sealed the edges~

I used 1.3 pistions, with 35wt TLR oil both front and rear.
I ended up using 20k for the front, and 7k in the rear from Team Associated, and went with the stock 100k for the center.


Nice touch on the diagrams in the manual for all the links T.D! It was really easy to do compared to a few other kits I've built.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I understand that part, What I wanted to know is the difference between
(1 DOt F/F 1 dot F/R ) and (2 dot F/F 2 dot F/R) They are both 10 degrees kick up.

Mopar

For the same angle of kick-up or anti-squat, a shorter or longer mount will allow you to change the roll center.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Interesting so a smaller dot config is a lower roll center or higher?
Here's a quick pic

Mopar

Raising the lower pin mounts (less dots) would raise the roll center. This is the opposite of the upper links changes where if you raise the inner ball it will lower the roll center. And vise - versa to lower roll centers. This has been something I've had to relearn over the years. What helped me the most lately has been a smart phone app by Martin Crisp (aimed at sedan racing) but mirrors the Hudy set-up guide I have trusted for a long while. The only things the app or guide doesn't cover is jumping. All else is the same physics, including full scale cares.