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Old 04-07-2014, 09:49 AM   #1651
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
I can start building. yes, yes

"LIKE"! Did you buy 2 kits?
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:41 AM   #1652
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I can start building. yes, yes

Write us a build review, when you will done the build.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:42 AM   #1653
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Well, lets see it burning....
I have seen a lot already, cause i am an old fart!


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Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
It should do for sure, you may just need a little stiffer spring in the rear to handle the extra weight of the 2 shorties, aside from that your good to go.

You may also want to look into getting closed cell foams for your tires also and some proline dirthawgs they will hold up to the high speeds better and on asphalt

Cheers Justin

Justin
-Ok, thanks! That's is good info!

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Originally Posted by jones8352 View Post
A 1/10 buggy isn't going do any real high speeds, they're too light. I've gone slightly over 100mph and it's harder than you would think. Check out some videos on youtube, search for Nic Case I think that's right, he did 188mph with a wild looking wedge. Big event and lot of folks got involved in that video. I know you're not trying to set a world record but a stock Vorza on 6s and foam tires should smoke a baby wheeler in a high speed run. By the way many moons ago I turned 102mph on a highly modified Traxxas Rustler. I'll have too look I think I still have a pic of the beast. lol
-By many moons i use smaller veichules in 4s... people will go crazy when i talk 4s on a Losi Mini8 and play to empty the pack! Not just a single pass! It is at least +50 speed runs or speed bashing or whatever! And it's a 1/14 scale and the drivetrain is the same for more then 2 years! Esc on lowest thottle punch and not doing wheelie never! :P


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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
I think this might be better suited to handle the task of fitting into what you're wanting to achieve without emptying your pockets and leaving PLENTY to purchase plenty of spares and everything else you need to make a solid 1/10 Wheeler with good diffs that can withstand all that power just fine.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...uggy_KIT_.html
-Come one! Really? An hobbyking veichule? Now i am mad....do not even speak those words... i came from Plettenberg's/Leomotion's/Neu's/Lhener's and you speak on "china" made with no quality control... maybe for my enemies and even so that's just garbade! like the other "user" said! For that i will buy a toy instead.. it can take the abuse a 3year old child give trowing into walls!

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Originally Posted by jones8352 View Post
It absolutely amazes me that a kit like that can be sold to the public for a price like that. Any body here tried one of them? I'm not going to buy one no matter how cheap they are, to many potential problems, just curious.
-It's one of those things that if you buy, you break it since you give the dollars to the shop owner!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mydudrevo View Post
I don't see why everyone is trying to push him away from buying the d413 because he wants to use it as a basher/speed machine. I think it will work very very well for what he intends to do. My 1/10 4wd (s10b v3.5) is incredibly durable and handles very well, as I'm sure this will be to. It's a lot easier to do speed runs and bash with a vehicle that doesn't handle like a dump truck. I say go for it. And I don't think he is aiming for 100+ mph runs he just wants the extra speed and efficiency that 4s offers.

Good luck targetingxmods I'm sure this buggy will be perfect for you.
-Thanks! I apreciate! Like i said a million times... a 3 gear metal diff and option almost stock to put 4s bateries in a 1/10 never happened until now! Thanks Hot Bodies!

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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
Because a higher end race kit is overkill for what he's into. All the adjustability is there specifically for fine tuning for tracks and competitive racing. The kit I posted borrows from many other high-end kits so it's not like its going to not perform well. In fact it will have plenty of performance and tunability to make adjustments that will compensate for wheelies and or being too light to handle the brute power he plans to implement. He can fine tune suspension and it should be an all around great performer in every respect.
-Overkill? Just the begining my friend! Since the day i was born! lol. Anyway only an overkill kit or very well built can be safe to drive that way! SAFE and predicatable and not having a life of it's own!

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Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post
Looks very similar to the Himoto, Redcat, etc. When I first started racing I thought I would skirt the high price of these fancy pants kits, and it ended in heart ache. Low quality plastics that break if a butterfly flaps its wings in the next county, screws made out of pot metal, shocks, gears, etc are all just bad. The amount of flex and slop means you will never really be able to tune it to make consistent laps.

In the end you will end up with a hobby grade kit anyway if you want to race. Money and time is much better spend finding a quality chassis second hand rather than trying to make something like that work.
-That's why i only buy second hand good roller's and then choose wiselly the electronics when money apppears, to have toys that go fast and secure!

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Originally Posted by mydudrevo View Post
I still completely disagree. Just because a car will be used as a basher doesn't mean it needs to be cheap. Come on man we are racing toy cars! If he wants to spend the money on a car to do with it what he wants I said go for it.

All those 70 year old men driving lamborginis and ferraris are you gonna tell them they should have bought a Hyundai because they arnt doing what they are intended for.
-Well... that resumes it in some way! For me only a good brand or high end brand RC will do! Cause if go to the cheap side... i waste money big time... it breaks and breaks and breaks and on the end it breaks even with upgrades! lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i agree 100%. let this guy have fun with his toy cars the way he sees fit and we'll all do the same.

how are the diffs on that thing? plastic ring gears? looks like cheap himoto garbage. i know it well as i had a hobby people tempest (himoto). thing was great for about a month, then with soft plastic, specifically the chassis, everything gets sloppy and i was stripping spur gears left and right because of the amount of chassis flex. this kit appeals to the guy for it's reported durability. whether or not the extra tuning options are overkill for him is his decision.

and who knows? this guy could be the ultimate durability tester for all of us. if there are driveline issues with this buggy, he is going to find it running 4s. his experiences may benefit all of us.



^^^^ this guy gets it.
-Durability and quality! The man speaked the truth!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt :-) View Post
targetingxmod,

I'm not trying to influence what you decide to purchase. Just sharing my personal experience with bashing. I REALLY enjoy Losi 8th scale truggies. Their big enough to completely inhale any type of terrain. The suspension design bashes, races, and does speed runs beautifully. The power you can apply to them almost seems unlimited, and I haven't ever broken a single part. My daughter smacked her's into a telephone pole twice in mid flight of a high speed jump Saturday afternoon. I was completely surprised, no damage !

Hope you have loads of fun with whatever you decide to buy
-The drivetrain even on the 1/14 scale Losi handle fine 4s... so the bigger brother's will just be happy on 6s. That can't be said of a "hobbywing" or "traxxas".

Come on my Kyosho Mini Inferno 4s is still alive and it's a 1/16 even smaller then the Losi Mini8. But it's 100% aftermarket, just like a show queen, all show, all GO!


I started my Rc's thing on Mini'z's/x-mods if interest anybody!

Peace.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:37 AM   #1654
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I updated Build Tip #2 with a diagram. I'll try to post some other stuff tonight or tomorrow morning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
Now that the car is almost here I guess I'll post some build tips that I've found. On my previous post I mentioned o-rings and the o-ring spacer. I guess that'll be the first tip.



Build Tip #1
Ty uses Kyosho x-rings which adds smoothness. During testing after the Cactus the AE guys gave us some of their new x-rings to try. They claim theirs work as well without the Kyo price. Haven't tried them yet though.

I do the poor-man method... I use the stock o-rings but replace the spacer between them with a 1.5mm ballstud washer instead (the standard spacer is 2mm). Smoothens the shock action without leaks.



Build Tip #2
The shock can be built bladder style or emulsion style. I think the manuals shows it being built with a bladder. If you choose to build it emulsion style you'll have to trim the bladder and drill the hole through the cap for the bleeder screw. (see picture)



There's also a small dimple on the shock cap that you can ream out. If you build it bladder style this helps the excess oil escape when screwing on the cap. 1/8 guys should be familiar with this feature.





Build Tip #3
I made the spring collar o-rings a little on the tight side in case if some drivers like them tight. If you want to loosen the collar action you can cut off a portion of the o-ring before stuffing it into the collar. For me I use a 3/4 ring (cut off 1/4).




Build Tip #4
During the initial build you pop the shock onto the tower ball stud. However in order to prevent the fit from getting sloppy over time, do not pop it off the ball when removing the shock. Instead used the supplied stamped wrench and undo the nut instead.




Build Tip #5
You can adjust your droop by threading the shock eyelet in and out. The shafts and eyelets were designed for this so you don't run out of thread. The shock shafts already have markings on them.




More to come...
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:26 PM   #1655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
I can start building. yes, yes

Where did you buy it?
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Old 04-07-2014, 01:51 PM   #1656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
"LIKE"! Did you buy 2 kits?
Yep, one for me, and one for my buddy.
Bought it in the UK at MBmodels.
Im in no hurry, Ill guess my build will take 2 weeks. including the painting of the body.
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:50 PM   #1657
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so can murky123 start the "Build Thread" or does it stay on this thread?

so i hear murky123 has a bad habit of taking packages from his neighbors porch

open the contents so we can see inside........... please!
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:39 PM   #1658
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Hey guys, I will be updating the first post in this thread to keep everyone up-to-date on build tips, FAQs, and other details once people start getting kits in-hand. Post in the thread or send me a PM if you have an idea you want to see on the first post. Thanks!
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:37 PM   #1659
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Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post
Hey guys, I will be updating the first post in this thread to keep everyone up-to-date on build tips, FAQs, and other details once people start getting kits in-hand. Post in the thread or send me a PM if you have an idea you want to see on the first post. Thanks!
very nice! thanks!
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:41 PM   #1660
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Build Tip #6
When installing the motor, clock the solder tabs off to the side. If you have it vertically straight up and down the tabs and wires will interfere with the body.



Build Tip #7
This is more of a maintenance tip but it is useful to know when you are installing your electronics.
The center diff is a very useful tuning item for this car. To access it, remove the motor clamp, the 4 screws on the top plate, and the 4 screws at the bottom which holds the bulkheads.


Once those are off you can swing the motor out of the way then you can slide the diff/bulkhead assembly off to the side. When you mount your ESC and receiver make sure you leave room to do this.



Build Tip #8
Use scrap lexan to make 'L' shaped brackets to mount velcro for the body. There should be plenty of usable excess from trimming the wing. When you mount the brackets make sure you have enough room for the battery to be installed in the full forward position, just in case if you want to try that setup.


Build Tip #9
If you look at the battery straps for the saddle pack (the two shorter ones included in the kit) there are two holes on the straps that seem to have no purpose. The spacing between those holes is exactly the same as the servo mounting holes. You can use the strap as a servo centering jig so that it is easier to center the servo between the mounts before you mount the servo assembly onto the chassis. Hopefully that makes sense.
[I'll try to add a pic later.]


That's all for now.
Attached Thumbnails
Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-img_0902.jpg   Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-img_0906.jpg   Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-img_0907.jpg   Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy-img_0901.jpg  
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Last edited by T. Deguzman; 04-07-2014 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:42 PM   #1661
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Originally Posted by Eric Summers View Post
so can murky123 start the "Build Thread" or does it stay on this thread?

so i hear murky123 has a bad habit of taking packages from his neighbors porch

open the contents so we can see inside........... please!
nah, im not going to make and maintain a build thread. I will do post some pictures and what I think of it.

this is my very fist wheeler, never had one before. always drove 2wd.
so I have nothing to compare it with.
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:55 AM   #1662
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Originally Posted by Jakesterama View Post
Hey guys, I will be updating the first post in this thread to keep everyone up-to-date on build tips, FAQs, and other details once people start getting kits in-hand. Post in the thread or send me a PM if you have an idea you want to see on the first post. Thanks!
Thanks for steppin' up for all of us.

That's just Minnesota nice for ya'll btw.
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:19 AM   #1663
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Originally Posted by T. Deguzman View Post
Build Tip #9
If you look at the battery straps for the saddle pack (the two shorter ones included in the kit) there are two holes on the straps that seem to have no purpose. The spacing between those holes is exactly the same as the servo mounting holes. You can use the strap as a servo centering jig so that it is easier to center the servo between the mounts before you mount the servo assembly onto the chassis. Hopefully that makes sense.
[I'll try to add a pic later.]
Um...seriously? did you think of everything? Where is the hidden bottle opener integrated?

Awesome job Torrance.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:44 AM   #1664
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Man I cant wait to get this box of goodies and start building! murky123 cant wait to see some pics!
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:08 AM   #1665
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Holy cow this car is now shipping ? Congrats HB and folks!

How did someone in the UK pick up a kit before anyone back home here in SoCal ?

Going to be keeping an eye on this buggy
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