Bearings.....what do you use and why?
06-30-2013, 10:28 PM
#17
I've gone thru the stock bearings and ceramic bearings (mostly from Acer). I haven't really found one that keeps it's seal better than others. All of my cars are ceramics for now and they still seem to get gritty. Still have ceramics come apart too....not as quickly as regular cheapie bearings though.
What do you use and why?
Anyone try the Abec 7 ones? last longer? seal better? still get gritty?
Just ordered a set of the Abec 7 ones for the inner and outer for the wheels on my Tekno 410.
What do you use and why?
Anyone try the Abec 7 ones? last longer? seal better? still get gritty?
Just ordered a set of the Abec 7 ones for the inner and outer for the wheels on my Tekno 410.
06-30-2013, 11:22 PM
#18
If you are looking for the longest lasting bearings to use in dirt, get some rubber sealed.
If you want a little less rolling resistance, get some of the Avid (I think) revolution series, one side is rubber sealed and the other side is metal shielded. Install them with the rubber seal facing the dirt.
For even less rolling resistance remove the metal shield from the revolutions, or get some metal shielded on both sides and remove one shield then mount them with the shielded side toward the dirt.
If you want the least amount of resistance possible and don't mind removing and cleaning your bearings every race day and replacing them about twice as often as sealed/shielded units, pull all the seals/shields off and load them up with dry lube.
If you want your bearings to really spin get some Duralube transmission conditioner and pour a little in a ziplock bag. Remove all your bearing seals, drop the bearings in the bag of Duralube and let them soak for an hour or so. Take them out of the bag and lay them down on a paper towel. Give em a few minutes and flip them over. Keep flipping until they quit spotting the paper towel and replace the seals/shields (or not) and you will have some very slick bearings.
If you use rubber sealed bearings for your nitro clutchbell, pull one seal off and use some motor spray to blow out the grease all rubber sealed bearings come packed full of. Put a couple drops of good oil (or duralube) in the bearing, then lay it open side down on a paper towel and let it drain before you put it in your bell with the open side turned in toward the clutch shoes. If you don't get the grease out it will sling out when the clutch gets hot and your clutch will slip real bad.
07-01-2013, 03:42 AM
#19
Tech Adept
I use abec7 ceramics everywhere besides the outer hubs off road..
They stay smooth but I end up having to shim them because they get loose
Any other bearings get flat spots on bb's if the grease leaks out and are nowhere near as smooth ..they are around 30 percent lighter but only worth it if u get a great deal on them.
They stay smooth but I end up having to shim them because they get loose
Any other bearings get flat spots on bb's if the grease leaks out and are nowhere near as smooth ..they are around 30 percent lighter but only worth it if u get a great deal on them.
07-01-2013, 06:09 AM
#20
$1 AVID revolution bearings! Last quite a while and cheap to replace.
07-01-2013, 07:42 AM
#21
How often did you drag your reels through the dirt for a few hours at a time?
If you are looking for the longest lasting bearings to use in dirt, get some rubber sealed.
If you want a little less rolling resistance, get some of the Avid (I think) revolution series, one side is rubber sealed and the other side is metal shielded. Install them with the rubber seal facing the dirt.
For even less rolling resistance remove the metal shield from the revolutions, or get some metal shielded on both sides and remove one shield then mount them with the shielded side toward the dirt.
If you want the least amount of resistance possible and don't mind removing and cleaning your bearings every race day and replacing them about twice as often as sealed/shielded units, pull all the seals/shields off and load them up with dry lube.
If you want your bearings to really spin get some Duralube transmission conditioner and pour a little in a ziplock bag. Remove all your bearing seals, drop the bearings in the bag of Duralube and let them soak for an hour or so. Take them out of the bag and lay them down on a paper towel. Give em a few minutes and flip them over. Keep flipping until they quit spotting the paper towel and replace the seals/shields (or not) and you will have some very slick bearings.
If you use rubber sealed bearings for your nitro clutchbell, pull one seal off and use some motor spray to blow out the grease all rubber sealed bearings come packed full of. Put a couple drops of good oil (or duralube) in the bearing, then lay it open side down on a paper towel and let it drain before you put it in your bell with the open side turned in toward the clutch shoes. If you don't get the grease out it will sling out when the clutch gets hot and your clutch will slip real bad.
If you are looking for the longest lasting bearings to use in dirt, get some rubber sealed.
If you want a little less rolling resistance, get some of the Avid (I think) revolution series, one side is rubber sealed and the other side is metal shielded. Install them with the rubber seal facing the dirt.
For even less rolling resistance remove the metal shield from the revolutions, or get some metal shielded on both sides and remove one shield then mount them with the shielded side toward the dirt.
If you want the least amount of resistance possible and don't mind removing and cleaning your bearings every race day and replacing them about twice as often as sealed/shielded units, pull all the seals/shields off and load them up with dry lube.
If you want your bearings to really spin get some Duralube transmission conditioner and pour a little in a ziplock bag. Remove all your bearing seals, drop the bearings in the bag of Duralube and let them soak for an hour or so. Take them out of the bag and lay them down on a paper towel. Give em a few minutes and flip them over. Keep flipping until they quit spotting the paper towel and replace the seals/shields (or not) and you will have some very slick bearings.
If you use rubber sealed bearings for your nitro clutchbell, pull one seal off and use some motor spray to blow out the grease all rubber sealed bearings come packed full of. Put a couple drops of good oil (or duralube) in the bearing, then lay it open side down on a paper towel and let it drain before you put it in your bell with the open side turned in toward the clutch shoes. If you don't get the grease out it will sling out when the clutch gets hot and your clutch will slip real bad.
07-01-2013, 09:16 AM
#22
+1 on Avid!!
07-01-2013, 09:34 AM
#23
Avid - $1 a bearing. No more time wasted on cleaning and re-lubing... just replace them. The wheel bearings in 1/8 buggy take a beating and from my experience need to get replaced more often than any other bearing in the buggy (other than clutch bearings).
07-01-2013, 10:24 AM
#25
Tech Master
I clean my bearings after every race and replace when necessary.
07-01-2013, 11:52 AM
#26
07-03-2013, 06:22 AM
#28
Tech Adept
Check this store, I use their ABEC-3 bearing set in my 22
http://stores.ebay.com/hobbyismbearings
Our track is very rough and dusty, these bearings are more reliable than stock Losi, and being that cheap, just replace when needed
http://stores.ebay.com/hobbyismbearings
Our track is very rough and dusty, these bearings are more reliable than stock Losi, and being that cheap, just replace when needed
07-03-2013, 01:02 PM
#30
That is a false statement. Not even in the same ballpark quality wise. I'm not slamming avid but you get what you pay for. I use dollar avids and dollar econo Boca bearings both. Those are the same.
Boca Yellow and Orange seal bearings are the best money can buy but you better have DEEP pockets for those.
Boca Yellow and Orange seal bearings are the best money can buy but you better have DEEP pockets for those.