New to Ebuggy - need help
06-18-2013, 02:27 PM
#16
That battery is great for run time but for racing it weighs way to much. Just to get the ride height correct you would need to change spring rates otherwise you would have to run too much preload. Too much preload or a change in spring rate then you need to retune your shocks. Its all connected. You want the lightest battery possible. Some ppl use 3700mah some 4300mah.
For me, I have to use larger capacity lipos since I often have to run with nitro buggies, with 20+ minute mains.
06-18-2013, 03:19 PM
#17
Tech Regular
Man once someone comes out with a quick change battery setup those nitros are gonna be in trouble!
06-18-2013, 04:06 PM
#18
lol. Heck, out here nitro was king in 1/8 and now its pretty much electric as the largest class at that track. Next appears to be 4x4 SCTs.
Nitro has its place for sure and can be fun with refills, etc. But the simplicity of just plug and go is a blast and not needing a pit man makes the day go faster.
If they could improve nitro easy of use to the level of 1/5 scale gasoline engines and the same kind of runtime, watch out.
Nitro has its place for sure and can be fun with refills, etc. But the simplicity of just plug and go is a blast and not needing a pit man makes the day go faster.
If they could improve nitro easy of use to the level of 1/5 scale gasoline engines and the same kind of runtime, watch out.
06-23-2013, 05:03 AM
#19
** UPDATE **
I changed the pinion to a 17t - I also found my Castle MMP switch was not making great contact. I cut the switch (For now) and closed the connection. The 17t was money. Now, I need to dial in some punch control and some brake drag.. the engine temps after 5 minutes and after the 10minute main hovered around 120 - 130 .. the ESC was not hot (The fan was on, after a couple minutes went off) and the battery was very slightly warm at best.
So.. the magic is the MMP / 1900kv tekin w/17t pinion / and 45t spur. Of course the Tekon v4 conversion kit and the 6700mAh 80c Lipo.
My guess is the gearing was so low the motor was sucking out the max amount of juice from the battery causing it to discharge the battery at a rate that caused it to heat up. After gearing up now the battery is cool and the engine is warming up. The balance between gearing and torque. If I can offer anything - it would be find the balance in your gearing and make sure to temp your electronics to help maintain that balance.
Thanks everyone for you help .. now the only thing I need it more track time
I changed the pinion to a 17t - I also found my Castle MMP switch was not making great contact. I cut the switch (For now) and closed the connection. The 17t was money. Now, I need to dial in some punch control and some brake drag.. the engine temps after 5 minutes and after the 10minute main hovered around 120 - 130 .. the ESC was not hot (The fan was on, after a couple minutes went off) and the battery was very slightly warm at best.
So.. the magic is the MMP / 1900kv tekin w/17t pinion / and 45t spur. Of course the Tekon v4 conversion kit and the 6700mAh 80c Lipo.
My guess is the gearing was so low the motor was sucking out the max amount of juice from the battery causing it to discharge the battery at a rate that caused it to heat up. After gearing up now the battery is cool and the engine is warming up. The balance between gearing and torque. If I can offer anything - it would be find the balance in your gearing and make sure to temp your electronics to help maintain that balance.
Thanks everyone for you help .. now the only thing I need it more track time
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