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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 01-30-2015, 12:36 AM
  #1276  
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Got a race day and a couple of practice days with the car since I made the switch to the gear diffs,

I like them, though for me they did take a little getting used to driving wise. My only issue now is just the noise from the metal gears. I can live with it, but what are guys using to help quiet them down after they brake in? I ask because I have tried the black greese as the instructions recommended and used another type of lube, but they're just a tick noisier than I'd like them to be.

Other than that, the car is pretty good with them. The more I have drove it with the gear diffs in there the more I'm liking it.
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:52 AM
  #1277  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Got a race day and a couple of practice days with the car since I made the switch to the gear diffs,

I like them, though for me they did take a little getting used to driving wise. My only issue now is just the noise from the metal gears. I can live with it, but what are guys using to help quiet them down after they brake in? I ask because I have tried the black greese as the instructions recommended and used another type of lube, but they're just a tick noisier than I'd like them to be.

Other than that, the car is pretty good with them. The more I have drove it with the gear diffs in there the more I'm liking it.
Theres a lube by Lucas you can find at auto stores, I forgot what its called, its Lucas tacky something, in that idea. I believe its red in color. It was mentioned over on the HB thread.
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:58 AM
  #1278  
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This crap is pretty good.

http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/Cookies...-LFR10087S.htm
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:53 AM
  #1279  
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I'm gonna try the 521 arms again today. Looking to see what difference it will make.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:20 PM
  #1280  
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Default 13.5 gearing

What pinion range are you guys running for 13.5 blinky on an indoor track?
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:37 PM
  #1281  
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Originally Posted by K_King
I'm gonna try the 521 arms again today. Looking to see what difference it will make.
I just wanted to give some input on the RB6 gull wing vs. the stock kit arms. Tons of people have asked, and after reading pages I still haven't found anything real concrete.
I ran the RB6 arms in a qualifier and the stock kit arms in the next qualifier back to back. My fast lap was .3 quicker with the RB6 arms and the car seemed to rotate through the corner much faster allowing the throttle to be put down immediately. It launched harder out of the corner too as the roll center is lower. I ran kit arms at CRCRC a few weeks ago, and stuck with em. I wish I had tried the RB6 arms there…Tebo's CRCRC setup is absolutely the best, in my opinion you won't get the car any better on med to high grip tracks, period. Ive tried lots of different setups, pistons, etc. Also, (rear motor setup) by moving the esc forward up by the servo removed just enough rear weight to allow the 1.7 pistons to work perfectly, giving the car perfect pack with no chassis slap. These pistons along with forward mounted esc balance the car better and make it feel more forgiving for us who are not Tebo. You can over jump the car a bit and it doesn't upset it too bad, it absorbs it. The flat arms def make the car feel more plush and cushy, almost like a cadillac. Its easy to drive the car hard with the box stock setup, most people that show up to the track with the kit setup do well from the get go. But after following what Tebo has done, it wakes the car up and gives it a much faster sports car feel while still not making it terribly aggressive to drive. Sway bars are critical to making the car get in the corner, be stable, and launch out straight. The 1.4 rear stands the car up and makes it turn in harder, while the 1.0 front keeps the nose calm and stable through the corner. My 2 cents...
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:29 PM
  #1282  
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude
What pinion range are you guys running for 13.5 blinky on an indoor track?
Right now I'm at 26/76 and it pretty good.
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:15 AM
  #1283  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Right now I'm at 26/76 and it pretty good.
How much timing in the motor?
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:18 AM
  #1284  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Right now I'm at 26/76 and it pretty good.
I'm running 27/76 with a 13.5 Killshot HT rotor and stator set at 40* endbell timing only....................in a ZX5 of course.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:15 AM
  #1285  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Got a race day and a couple of practice days with the car since I made the switch to the gear diffs,

I like them, though for me they did take a little getting used to driving wise. My only issue now is just the noise from the metal gears. I can live with it, but what are guys using to help quiet them down after they brake in? I ask because I have tried the black greese as the instructions recommended and used another type of lube, but they're just a tick noisier than I'd like them to be.

Other than that, the car is pretty good with them. The more I have drove it with the gear diffs in there the more I'm liking it.
Mine sounded like a freight train because I had my gear meshes too tight. I set up the ZX6 gear/pinion mesh like my MP9 and STRR (cram them together, run 1/2 lap and magic - they were smooth). Space the ring gear a bit from the pinion on both front and rear. If it's still too loud, look at your center slipper/motor pinion mesh. I reset these three things and it's quieter than when the ball diffs were installed.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:25 AM
  #1286  
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Anyone tried the 5 hole pistons in the rear shocks? I was looking at some old setup sheets and I saw a setup with those in.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:50 AM
  #1287  
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I run the 2x1.7s. I am really happy with my car right now. It's almost too easy to drive.
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Old 02-07-2015, 05:36 AM
  #1288  
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude
How much timing in the motor?
40 degrees

Sorry I didn't check this page sooner.
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Old 02-08-2015, 04:08 PM
  #1289  
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I use 6 hole pistons front and rear.
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:25 PM
  #1290  
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Hi Kyosho dudes.

I run the hb d413 and i'm a little tired of the shocks. I go Emulsion, and they build up rebound (suck in air) extremely fast. I use the kyosho x-rings and green slime and all, but after 2 batteries they have 100 % rebound (starting from zero).
I know the Kyosho's are silky smooth, so do you also have to let out air every 2 batteries to have them all "dead" (zero rebound) ?
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