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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts


LA359B Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)
LA375 Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-01 Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)
LA377 Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)
LA378 Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)
LA379 Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)
UM713B Rear Arms (from RB6)


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals:

Lazer ZX6.6 http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...20ZX6.6_IM.pdf
Lazer ZX6 http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...ZER_ZX6_IM.pdfhttp://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...ZER_ZX6_IM.pdf

After Market Bodies

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/silencer-kyosho-zx6-body

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Old 11-10-2014, 02:10 PM   #1051
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+1 happy with ball diffs. Infact for winter indoors low traction, they would work better for sure than the gears. Easier to put power down.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:48 PM   #1052
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Hi fellow ZX6 owners,

I recently bought a 2nd hand ZX6. I found the buggy difficult to drive - understeer into the corner and then oversteer out of the corner. It was much harder to get the power down than my MM RB6. It feels out of balance and big changes are needed, not just little tuning.

I want to dial in a a good base setup to begin with and tune from there. Would you suggest the book setup or a specific setup on petitrc? I am running the motor in the backwards position with a shorty battery. Speedy is close to the centre diff/slipper.

The track I drive on is a medium grip indoor clay track.

Any assistance on a starting point would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:48 PM   #1053
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I think Tebo has said he's keeping his current setup pretty static

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...coa2014081924/

Maybe try that as a baseline?
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:10 PM   #1054
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Originally Posted by TMS-99 View Post
Hi fellow ZX6 owners,

I recently bought a 2nd hand ZX6. I found the buggy difficult to drive - understeer into the corner and then oversteer out of the corner. It was much harder to get the power down than my MM RB6. It feels out of balance and big changes are needed, not just little tuning.

I want to dial in a a good base setup to begin with and tune from there. Would you suggest the book setup or a specific setup on petitrc? I am running the motor in the backwards position with a shorty battery. Speedy is close to the centre diff/slipper.

The track I drive on is a medium grip indoor clay track.

Any assistance on a starting point would be greatly appreciated.
I run on medium bite indoor clay and started with tebo's surf city classic set up. Only difference is .5 shims on all 4 chassis side roll center ball studs,red associated springs in front gold in back,servo on left with horn facing in towards center of car with linkage running parallel to drive shaft, esc in left rear behind motor,shorty on right ,receiver and transponder on front right.I also put a red oring and almost 4 limiters on the out side of the rear shock to act like a bump stop to eliminate the dog bone crashing into the out drive at full bump.Car ran great at my local track that is medium bite clay and also at last weekends fall brawl hosted at Amain hobbies which is an indoor high bite clay track .I was running 13.5 second lap times and the top drivers were only at most two tenths faster car was hooked no complaints .
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:32 PM   #1055
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I put Tebo's Roar Nationals setup on to see how that feels, except a few small differences. I started setting EPA and all that stuff to be ready to run when I get to the track tomorrow. I set the EPA with the car sitting on the stand then tested the car while still on the stand. While running the car I turn the wheels and something is binding really bad. The front wheels are jumping up and down and just going crazy. I then removed the front tires and everything is fine, no binding and everything is running smoothly. Put the wheels and tires back on and try again, still binding. It starts binding at around 30% throw. I then take off one wheel at a time and there is no binding at all with either wheel on and the other off. So then I think maybe tighten the diff, no help. I checked over everything to make sure nothing is rubbing (even had my wife look at it). Tried a different set of wheels and tires and same thing. Tried holding the arms up taking out droop, same thing. Has anyone had this problem or could hopefully give me some things to check over that Im missing.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:43 PM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
I put Tebo's Roar Nationals setup on to see how that feels, except a few small differences. I started setting EPA and all that stuff to be ready to run when I get to the track tomorrow. I set the EPA with the car sitting on the stand then tested the car while still on the stand. While running the car I turn the wheels and something is binding really bad. The front wheels are jumping up and down and just going crazy. I then removed the front tires and everything is fine, no binding and everything is running smoothly. Put the wheels and tires back on and try again, still binding. It starts binding at around 30% throw. I then take off one wheel at a time and there is no binding at all with either wheel on and the other off. So then I think maybe tighten the diff, no help. I checked over everything to make sure nothing is rubbing (even had my wife look at it). Tried a different set of wheels and tires and same thing. Tried holding the arms up taking out droop, same thing. Has anyone had this problem or could hopefully give me some things to check over that Im missing.
If you are running your servo with the servo horn running parallel with the drive shaft make sure it is spaced properly and not hitting the chassis brace , also make sure you used the proper length plastic ball cup ends for the small linkage that goes from servo horn to rack . It takes a small and medium ball cup to get the the proper distance.Also make sure you assembled the rack swingers correct for the way you chose to run your servo .
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:18 PM   #1057
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Servo is mounted side to side with arm straight up. Bell crank ball stud is parallel behind left bell crank. Everything has plenty of clearance. I just put the wheels on inside out to make sure nothing is hitting inside the wheels and it's still binding.

Rebuilt front CVA and greased. Changed back to the 7 degree caster block. There isn't anything hitting that I can see. Im lost with this one...

Last edited by potatobed409; 11-11-2014 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 10:01 PM   #1058
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
Servo is mounted side to side with arm straight up. Bell crank ball stud is parallel behind left bell crank. Everything has plenty of clearance. I just put the wheels on inside out to make sure nothing is hitting inside the wheels and it's still binding.

Rebuilt front CVA and greased. Changed back to the 7 degree caster block. There isn't anything hitting that I can see. Im lost with this one...
Re check the two swingers that the rack bolts to they Change configuration depending on what way you run your servo. And make sure caster blocks are on the right side .
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:56 AM   #1059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
Servo is mounted side to side with arm straight up. Bell crank ball stud is parallel behind left bell crank. Everything has plenty of clearance. I just put the wheels on inside out to make sure nothing is hitting inside the wheels and it's still binding.

Rebuilt front CVA and greased. Changed back to the 7 degree caster block. There isn't anything hitting that I can see. Im lost with this one...
Are the wheels actually binding like not spinning at full lock?? If they are just chattering then that's just the cva's chattering when going lock to lock. Just like on a touring car. That's why most guys get ecs's for touring cars to get rid of the chatter. My zx6 chatters also at full lock.
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:04 AM   #1060
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Chattering is a better description then binding. It's not locking up but chattering badly. It starts chattering at 30% steering throw, nowhere close to full steering throw. I can see and hear the forward drive bind up also. I'm running a Tekin RSX so a different ESC will stop the chattering?
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:43 AM   #1061
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An Equalized Corner Speed (ECS) Drive Shaft is like a double jointed CVD. It has nothing to do with your Electronic Speed Control (ESC)
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:07 AM   #1062
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Ok I see that now. I couldn't figure out how the ESC had anything to do with that. lol. Is there a ecs shaft that fits this buggy?
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:53 AM   #1063
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I noticed the CVDs were a little dry so I packed them with grease and that helped. It's still chattering but not until I get close to full steering lock and not as bad as before. Does anyone else's ZX6 chatter at full throw?
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:48 AM   #1064
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I noticed the CVDs were a little dry so I packed them with grease and that helped. It's still chattering but not until I get close to full steering lock and not as bad as before. Does anyone else's ZX6 chatter at full throw?
Yes mine chatters slightly at full throw. I don't think anyone makes ECS'S for this buggy at the moment. Not sure if another brand for a different buggy would work.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:03 AM   #1065
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Yes mine chatters slightly at full throw. I don't think anyone makes ECS'S for this buggy at the moment. Not sure if another brand for a different buggy would work.
Someone in the thread made the xray spec r ones work. Machined the diff cups to fit 3mm pins.
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