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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts


LA359B Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)
LA375 Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-01 Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)
LA377 Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)
LA378 Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)
LA379 Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)
UM713B Rear Arms (from RB6)


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals:

Lazer ZX6.6 http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...20ZX6.6_IM.pdf
Lazer ZX6 http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...ZER_ZX6_IM.pdfhttp://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...ZER_ZX6_IM.pdf

After Market Bodies

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/silencer-kyosho-zx6-body

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Old 08-07-2014, 02:45 PM   #691
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Hi peeps, I'd like to try the gear diffs, is this the correct number LAW50 and do you need the gear diff case LAW50-01 or does the original case work.

Also what oils work best for low to medium traction indoor clay?

Cheers Justin
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:26 PM   #692
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Just a heads up for anyone building the kit in the side servo layout as per my pics above. I found I had to remove material from the ball cup, chassis brace and side of the servo horn as I had interference between the top of the horn and brace and between the horn and drive shaft.

Also , the optional aluminium servo horn does not fit at all in this setup and the Lunsford ball studs (rb6 kit) are generally too long and will rub the outdrives, front drive shaft etc unless you cut them down a bit.

Also, if you are planning on running RB6 rear arms you need the rb6 inner hinge pins! Doh.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:54 PM   #693
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Originally Posted by Zylux View Post
Just a heads up for anyone building the kit in the side servo layout as per my pics above. I found I had to remove material from the ball cup, chassis brace and side of the servo horn as I had interference between the top of the horn and brace and between the horn and drive shaft.

Also , the optional aluminium servo horn does not fit at all in this setup and the Lunsford ball studs (rb6 kit) are generally too long and will rub the outdrives, front drive shaft etc unless you cut them down a bit.

Also, if you are planning on running RB6 rear arms you need the rb6 inner hinge pins! Doh.
You mean the outer hinge pin?
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:08 PM   #694
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What is the benefit of running RB6 rear arms?
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:05 PM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
Hi peeps, I'd like to try the gear diffs, is this the correct number LAW50 and do you need the gear diff case LAW50-01 or does the original case work.

Also what oils work best for low to medium traction indoor clay?

Cheers Justin
I'll start with 10k diff oil then work down
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:28 PM   #696
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This nice little build from Ben came up on my FB feed via Kyosho Australia on gear diffs and the bearings are a nice tip.
http://www.bensterlingrc.com/how-to-...zx6-gear-diff/
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:01 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
You mean the outer hinge pin?
Yes , outer hinge pin. Sorry about that.
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:48 PM   #698
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Hey, I'm noticing my front center driveshaft keeps popping out, any idea why?

Ive put the sponges both up front, I've used my extra sponges from a different build, Some in front some in rear etc, what I think is happening is chassis flex? I'm not sure, but I've tore this down 3x now trying to get it to not pop out. I'm not even driving on a track, just on the street.

Last edited by CaseyDDR; 08-08-2014 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:03 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
This nice little build from Ben came up on my FB feed via Kyosho Australia on gear diffs and the bearings are a nice tip.
http://www.bensterlingrc.com/how-to-...zx6-gear-diff/
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyDDR View Post
Hey, I'm noticing my front center driveshaft keeps popping out, any idea why?

Ive put the sponges both up front, I've used my extra sponges from a different build, Some in front some in rear etc, what I think is happening is chassis flex? I'm not sure, but I've tore this down 3x now trying to get it to not pop out. I'm not even driving on a track, just on the street.

Did you put the plastic screw cover inside the outdrive like the ones in the diff opposite the diff nut? If you leave that out it will pop out. I highly suggest following the manual and mot adding additional foam. Because of the angle of the front center outdrive if its pushed in to far it could cause too much bind.

I drove the car last night for the first time and my first impressions of the car are positive. It was lazy getting in and out but a few small tweaks and she came alive. Didnt have any issues with the center driveline popping out and I run a 6.5 with 20% esc timing.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:51 PM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tef View Post
Did you put the plastic screw cover inside the outdrive like the ones in the diff opposite the diff nut? If you leave that out it will pop out. I highly suggest following the manual and mot adding additional foam. Because of the angle of the front center outdrive if its pushed in to far it could cause too much bind.

I drove the car last night for the first time and my first impressions of the car are positive. It was lazy getting in and out but a few small tweaks and she came alive. Didnt have any issues with the center driveline popping out and I run a 6.5 with 20% esc timing.
Would u mind sharing what tweaks u made?
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:03 PM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tef View Post
Did you put the plastic screw cover inside the outdrive like the ones in the diff opposite the diff nut? If you leave that out it will pop out. I highly suggest following the manual and mot adding additional foam. Because of the angle of the front center outdrive if its pushed in to far it could cause too much bind.

I drove the car last night for the first time and my first impressions of the car are positive. It was lazy getting in and out but a few small tweaks and she came alive. Didnt have any issues with the center driveline popping out and I run a 6.5 with 20% esc timing.
I did miss that and have put it in. Thanks for the catch.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:16 PM   #702
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Would u mind sharing what tweaks u made?

Sure. I started with 32.5/1.6/red front and 27.5/1.6/gold rear. Rear hubs forward with kit setup links. Slipper was med/tight with stock flat arms. Car was way to soft and felt like it was sitting on the rear. It pushed into the turn and it pushed out. Usually my rule of thumb is off power issues are done at the front and on power is usually done at the rear as far as tweaks go. I left the front alone except went down to the gold fronts from red and went up to 35 oil. In the rear I slid the rear hubs back, uped the oil to 32.5 and went to the number 2 hole on the V2 hubs, was running 3/4 hole. I also tightened up the slipper too. These changes alone made the car explosive entering and exiting corners and was very easy to drive fast. Im going back to the track Sunday and will be trying more anti squat to get more drive out of the corner. My home track is med. grip and i ran m4 subs rear and m4 transistor fronts. I used the AKA adapter 2.4" kit for the fronts.

I added a pic to show the layout. I know some people have electronics in different spots.
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Last edited by tef; 08-08-2014 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:50 PM   #703
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In most of the ZX6 I have seen so far it seems that regular size servo is the way to do...why is that? Does it balance the car better?
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:58 PM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tef View Post
Sure. I started with 32.5/1.6/red front and 27.5/1.6/gold rear. Rear hubs forward with kit setup links. Slipper was med/tight with stock flat arms. Car was way to soft and felt like it was sitting on the rear. It pushed into the turn and it pushed out. Usually my rule of thumb is off power issues are done at the front and on power is usually done at the rear as far as tweaks go. I left the front alone except went down to the gold fronts from red and went up to 35 oil. In the rear I slid the rear hubs back, uped the oil to 32.5 and went to the number 2 hole on the V2 hubs, was running 3/4 hole. I also tightened up the slipper too. These changes alone made the car explosive entering and exiting corners and was very easy to drive fast. Im going back to the track Sunday and will be trying more anti squat to get more drive out of the corner. My home track is med. grip and i ran m4 subs rear and m4 transistor fronts. I used the AKA adapter 2.4" kit for the fronts.

I added a pic to show the layout. I know some people have electronics in different spots.
Great info, thanks. so to understand more anti squat helps with forward bite?
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:02 PM   #705
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Great info, thanks. so to understand more anti squat helps with forward bite?

Yes but reduces side bite. Everything is a trade off.
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