Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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#1486
I've always used AE diff lube.
if the ring is damaged, obviously replace it. you must have really tightened it down hard
tighten it down but not to the point where you have to strain AT ALL. then back it off say 1/8th of a turn. put the car down and accelerate hard. the diff should not bark. if it does, its too loose so tighten a tad.
I run a tiny bit of slipper, which puts less strain on your diffs
if the ring is damaged, obviously replace it. you must have really tightened it down hard
tighten it down but not to the point where you have to strain AT ALL. then back it off say 1/8th of a turn. put the car down and accelerate hard. the diff should not bark. if it does, its too loose so tighten a tad.
I run a tiny bit of slipper, which puts less strain on your diffs
#1487
Tech Elite
iTrader: (56)
Hey guys I just picked up a one run zx6 and seen that car doesn't have a hex in the ball studs,I noticed Lunsford is the same 4.8mm but I know they have the hex in them for easy adjustment,will these work with the stock ball cups or do I need the punisher turnbuckles as well?and also I am looking for a carbon fiber shock tower and can't find one anywhere,thanks!
#1488
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
Hey guys I just picked up a one run zx6 and seen that car doesn't have a hex in the ball studs,I noticed Lunsford is the same 4.8mm but I know they have the hex in them for easy adjustment,will these work with the stock ball cups or do I need the punisher turnbuckles as well?and also I am looking for a carbon fiber shock tower and can't find one anywhere,thanks!
#1490
#1493
Tech Adept
Does anyone know where to find the floating servo mount Tebo is using?
#1494
Tech Adept
#1495
I've always used AE diff lube.
if the ring is damaged, obviously replace it. you must have really tightened it down hard
tighten it down but not to the point where you have to strain AT ALL. then back it off say 1/8th of a turn. put the car down and accelerate hard. the diff should not bark. if it does, its too loose so tighten a tad.
I run a tiny bit of slipper, which puts less strain on your diffs
if the ring is damaged, obviously replace it. you must have really tightened it down hard
tighten it down but not to the point where you have to strain AT ALL. then back it off say 1/8th of a turn. put the car down and accelerate hard. the diff should not bark. if it does, its too loose so tighten a tad.
I run a tiny bit of slipper, which puts less strain on your diffs
Much APPRECIATED your reply.
#1497
anyone with some feedback regarding running the Bezerk top deck for the ZX6 ?
#1498
Bezerk top deck
But i did get 1st and 2nd, giving me 2nd overall plus i had fastest lap time only 0.5 off lap record
I would suggest getting a spare front top deck, i think there made thin to provide movement/flex in the chassis.
I didnt even notice that my front section was damaged, i ordered a spare + a rear shock tower so i have complete set now. (i did have a big accident ripped a poor guy's shock tower off ripping open diff casing.... i think that might have been it)
I have to say i really like the look of it, it is supposed to reduce weight and i feel it still offers some flex. Send message on facebook to buy
Recommended
I have mine down to 1612 grams with light weight battery and bezerk bits and lunsford balls and arms
#1499
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I'm still struggling to get my friends zx6 to run right. I put kings setup (minus gear diffs) on it and the car was still a mess. At high speed its twitchy an mid corner the car wants to step out.... gonna try to widen the front track width and lengthen the wheelbase... any other tips?
Oh, and I'm putting the gear riffs in it too..
Oh, and I'm putting the gear riffs in it too..
#1500
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
I'm still struggling to get my friends zx6 to run right. I put kings setup (minus gear diffs) on it and the car was still a mess. At high speed its twitchy an mid corner the car wants to step out.... gonna try to widen the front track width and lengthen the wheelbase... any other tips?
Oh, and I'm putting the gear riffs in it too..
Oh, and I'm putting the gear riffs in it too..
I've been using one of Kevin's setups and it's pretty good for me. A couple slight differences that I went with, gear diffs and the 7 front hub carrier vs the 10 that most seem to run. The 10 degree ones alway seem a bit too twitchy for me.
I've let a few guys drive mine and they say it's easy to drive, which is one thing that I like to have. Might not be the fastest on the track, but if it's a predictable and easy car to drive, then it's a couple less things I have to worry about. Just put most of that setup on one of the guys car that had drove mine and he was happy with it. Before he had been struggling with it being inconsistent felling to him. One day it'd be good and on another it wouldn't be.
Side note on the gear diffs,
Make sure you do the bearing mod, it really helps. After having ran mine for a good while, it seems that they like to be driven just slightly more on power than the ball diffs did. Not sure of its a good thing or bad thing, just one difference I felt between the two.