waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like something is bent and it binding. I would check that corners shock shaft, and hinge pin, to see if they're bent.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. I guess a tear down is in order.

caioz1jp

Hey all. I just completed my 8ight 3.0 electric conversion.

Under the hood:
Tekin RX8 Gen 2 with 1900kv Tekin motor $309 @ Tower Hobbies (shhh don't tell the wife)
SMC 4S 6500mah $62.99 @ SMC Battery
HiTec HS-5645MG Servo $39.99 @ Tower Hobbies (0.18 sec/60* and 162.4 oz/in 6V)
Fly Sky GRE3 Reciever $7.00 @ Amazon
Duratrax Equalizer C2 Premounted - $23.99 for 2 @ Tower Hobbies (These tires are amazing on outdoor loose dirt tracks.)

I bought a j-concepts silencer body for the 8ight 3.0 nitro since I knew it would fit the frame and mud guards. However, the battery seems to sit to high in the chassis. The batter is 4.4 cm high at the skinniest point, 4.8 cm high at the highest point.

Is there another body I should use for this car that will allow for my battery or should I use Velcro?

For those interested in doing this, I wanted to leave some advice base on my experience. First and foremost, the instructions are poor at best for the conversion kit. All you receive is a bag of screws, the conversion components and a one page instruction that has some mildly helpful pictures on one side and a parts list on the other side. I recommend downloading the 8ight 3.0 instructions from TLR if you don't have the original manual.

-Make sure you find the screws required to mount your motor and set those aside. They are very similar to screws used to hold the battery tray and the center diff mounts but not as thick

-Screws used to hold the original center diff mounts to the chassis are required to mount the new center diff set up.

-Removing the spur gear will completely open the center diff. I recommend having diff oil on hand to top off the diff case. Also, you will need to pull the o-ring and any shims and transfer to the new spur gear.

-There is a plastic motor brace that in installed before the motor can make sliding the motor into place difficult. I found installing this last allowed me to easily position my motor.

-Install the steering servo first prior to installing the receiver box. One side will take screws to mount the servo but the other side requires nuts or you can use a black plastic piece that I only assume was meant for that purpose. If you install the receiver box first there is very little room to get the servo in place.

-When installing the battery tray the straps should be laced under the tray and back around with the soft Velcro side facing out. Not a major tip but I felt stupid when I put it all together and had to redo mount the straps.

-When installing the battery tray the holes do not line up perfectly with the chassis. I found by tightening all screws about half way gave enough play to drive all screws straight into the tray.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Nice job on the set up. I found out the nut was too tight on the top shock mount, so I loosened it up and applied some thread lock to keep things from disappearing. Now it is moving fine. I have two of these fully set up, one 4s and the other 3s. I really don't know when I will get a chance to run them again. I want to have one setup for indoor, 3s, and the other outdoor, 4s.

Kotton23

iTrader: (-1)

Hello. Has anyone had issues with the center diff having a lot of play in it when it sits in the center diff mounts? I have put the recommended shimming, but it seems like a lot still. Any suggestions

cloead

iTrader: (6)

the used 3.0 i just got is the same way. moves all over the place. no idea.

cloead

iTrader: (6)

just got a used e 3.0.. couple questions if anyone knows the answers.

first, should there be a screw in the circled red hole? secondly.. does anybody notice any other missing screws? (referring to the attached picture)

and lastly.. the car has a metal spur gear and a metal pinion. these two seem pretty noisy and people at the track have commented on it. i reset the mesh but it doesnt seem to make a difference. also the spur gear itself seems to have quite a bit of play front to back and i have no idea if thats normal or cause for concern.

any help is greatly appreciated!

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

The chassis you have in the picture is not a Losi 8 3.0 chassis (or a 4.0 chassis).

If that's the chassis on the car you are calling a Losi 8 3.0, someone misled you.

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

I just did the esc/battery tray swap. I can't get my esc to stay on. A few jumps and it comes right off. I know it's because the chassis isn't flat for the esc to mount to once you move the battery tray forward. I have used servo tape, loctite tape, gorilla glue, loctite glue. Nothing works for long. How are you guys holding your escs down? It's a castle mamba monster x if it makes a difference.

Soar Loser

cloead, that screw I think just holds the plastic spacer piece to the chassis, just install a new one. Your chassis does look to be a Losi 3.0 nitro chassis with electric conversion kit installed. You can call it a Losi E 3.0 because of this conversion. Just remember that when you say Losi E 3.0 that most people refer to the actual Losi E 3.0 electric specific car.

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

First I removed and cleaned chassis where the foam used to be w battery in factory location. Then I used standard 3m double sides tape where the foam used to be....this leveled that area, giving me a flat and semi sticky surface. Then I used a piece of Kyosho gel tape on top of that, w esc mushed down onto the gel tape..... It did come loose one time, I used a few drops of glue when it happened.. Problem fixed.

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

I just don't seem to be having luck with the double sided tape. I used it the first time because I figured it would make the chassis semi-flat. I even did 2 layers one time to see if it would help. Keeps coming off. Does anyone use ESC mounts?

cloead

iTrader: (6)

then it appears that i was misled, here's the thread: www . rctech . net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/963707-fs-losi-3-0e-w-tekin-gen-2-esc-1900kv-200-bnip. html

fair enough. are the rest of the parts interchangeable or when looking for parts should i be looking at the nitro car?

thanks guys - sorry for my ignorance.

JKresty

What a NOOOOOB

Soar Loser

cloed,If you do a search on amainhobbies.com you can check the compatability of the part. It will list which cars the part fits.