ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Seen this happen a lot.

Someone with a low amount of experience in a certain area asks a question about an idea they have.

Someone with more experience gives them a reasonable suggestion.

Person with less experience rejects it because it doesn't fit with what they want to do.

Honestly, a Castle 2200 motor on 4S is very close to too much for a 1/8th scale buggy. Yes people use them - that doesn't mean it isn't too much. Just changing the gearing to run your 6S batteries is not going to make it "not too much" - just the opposite.

But go ahead - find out for yourself. Some day, if you stay in the hobby long enough, you will be suggesting the next guy in this situation buy a 1900 motor to run.

pat dillon

iTrader: (12)

I race with these guys every day have big motors can not get around the track without crashing in every corner.try to help them and they are bunch smart asses that know everything.got 20 years under my belt.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

Noone wanted to answer the questions till I seemingly insulted a fellow driver for replacing a new motor with a lower KV motor. Then you guys want to come out of the woodwork touting your experience and how you have seen these smart asses that know everything.
I also have 20 plus years experience in cars and planes. I can tell you that:

• A 6S system will be more efficient than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
• A 6S system will run cooler than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts
• A 6S system will produce less amps than a 4S for the SAME amount of power/watts

I don't expect anyone to have a difference of opinion on those 3 facts. IE:....A 6S and a 4S system both producing 1000 Watts....The 6S system does it easier on the battery, ESC, and motor.
There is no doubt a 1900KV is better for 6S than my 2200KV. I agree with that because 1900KV gives me better gearing options. That doesn't mean I can't get there on 2200KV...I will try. I do not see the point of buying a 1900KV motor NOW until I try to get there on the new 2200KV. The math tells me I can get there and do it with less amps, better efficiency, and a cooler motor. And if I can't, fine, Ill just buy some 4S batteries and be done. What I will not do is replace a new motor that is working fine with another new motor....that is silly.

Hours after this was posted, Hobbyking had Zippy Flightmax 4S 5800mah 30C on sale for $27 each. 3 of them shipped is $92....What a bargain. I bought them. I have had Flightmax batts in my jets pulling some serious amps, so I know they are decent batteries. I might still at least run some test with 6S and see what I can match on the wattmeter.

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

And to think if you know this much you wouldn't need to ask others for their opinion or even for a better perspective you would have just researched what was needed BEFORE you decided to purchase your setup. All of this could have easily been avoided.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

I did research what was needed before I purchased. In fact, if you google 8ight Castle, -mini.....you get 50,000 results, so I would say the Castle combo is pretty popular, wouldn't you? I have seen the combo ran at our track ....maybe they should all get a Tekin too because that seems like solid advice you guys keep pounding in ....that we should all replace our Neu Motors with a Tekin for no good reason. I stand by my answer...to do so is silly.

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Well no one here is runing a mini so why would searching for "8ight castle mini" get you any sort of usable results. This entire thread is dedicated to 1/8 buggies and we don't run a mini castle setup. Sorry.

foghat

-mini actually will exclude 'mini' from the search results...

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

rotor head33

iTrader: (11)

Ah. See I didn't do the "-" so that's my fault. I was quite confused lol

platgof

iTrader: (4)

You ask your 3 year old for advice? does he also make your bed?

Kaputttroniker

Today I got the parts I had ordered. The chassisplate is black and looks completly different on the top !?

It says TLR241006 on it. Are there any chassisplates out there, that have the same TLR- Number, maybe of a cheaper RTR version?

I found this JQ- THE Guide papers the other day. It explains the hole set up thing very well. http://eu.jqracing.com/files/PDFs/TH...al-English.pdf

At the end, there´s a short overview, that´s really helpful to beginners like me. There´s also a German Version.

I wished, Hudy would have such an overview at the end of their 1:8 offroad setup book. I guess they have it for onroad cars, at least if I remember right.

Do you guys know any other good overviews, tables or charts I could print out and bring to track?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Sounds like you got the 8ight-e RTR chassis. TLR241006 should be a gold chassis. I use this tuning guide:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf

I would definitely try one change at a time to get a feel for what each change does. If you can still find Adam drake tlr videos those are good to watch. His new mugen ones are pretty close as well minus a few differences between the cars.

foghat

Hi,

Have my buggy almost completely put together now. Looking at the front end, while the left spindle is virtually straight, the right spindle is turned a a bit to the right (toe-out).

The steering rods are the same length - down to a 100th of a mm.

I imagine I can fix by adjusting the right steering rod? But am wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at given the steering rods are currently the same length.

donny939

I'm trying to install a protek servo horn and it's not sitting right. Does anyone know if I can use the protek servo horn or do I have to use a Losi one? I have a Losi horn to compare it to and the Losi one isn't flush like the protek.

donny939

Haha I just noticed the post before me and he has the same servo as me and he's not using the protek so got my answer