rcdreamer

Thanks guys, anyone have the part numbers for those shock pistons?.

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

Fronts 1.3 mm- TLR243011

Rear splits: TLR243012

rcdreamer

Thanks Guys, appreciate the help

PegLeg

iTrader: (4)

Hey all. Just picked up (3) of the TLR 8ight 3.0 E kits for myself and a couple buddies. Not sure if this is the correct thread to ask, but as I was looking at optional parts I came across a few questions for you (the experts):

1. Is an aluminum version of the rear hub carrier available? Part #?
2. What is a 'smart' front and center diff? I didn't see a rear 'smart' diff available. How does it differ from the stock diffs in the kit?
3. Is the electric clutch a 'must have' for top lap times, or is it a just a driver's aid which serves as a launch control? If you use one, how do you brake?
4. Battery for racing recommendations? Going to be running a Mamba Monster 2 ESC with a 2200kV Neu motor. I currently have two 4S Orion Carbon Pro 6400mAh, 90C batteries--will those work well, weight-wise? Recommend 2S saddle packs?
5. Going to be using a Hitec 8370 steering servo. Overkill?
6. Any additional advice?

Appreciate any help you all can offer and Happy Holidaze.
Can't wait to hit the indoor clay next year!

rjkotzur

Considering picking this kit up, how close do you guys think they are to an update as they seem to have discontinued and dropped the price? However i do have the 3.0 nitro version that I dont plan on replacing anytime soon- is there enought parts compatability between the nitro and electric that it would be more worthwhile to have both platforms as the same generation?

m.velder

Hello All,

I need some help. I bought a conversion kit to make our 3.0 nitro into a brushless buggy. Does anybody know witch body will fit after this conversion. The Bitty clear for agama and losi doesn't fit , there is nog enough space by the battery section.

rjkotzur

another quick question, what capacity 4s battery is sufficient for racing, don't want to overdue it on the mAh if I don't have to

fifi

I read the car was easier to drive with the spindle from the truggy.
As anyone tried the one from 4.0?
Which one is better?



I bougth a used r8.1.
The wire for 1/8 need to be 10awg or 12 is enough.

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

If you want front end to be less aggressive and have a little less steering yes, run truggy caster block. To run 4.0 stuff you will need the new spindles, spacers, and caster blocks I believe.

R/C Rich

iTrader: (4)

You will need either a nitro body (without the holes for the engine and gas tank cut out)

Or, a 2.0 ebuggy body. Both of those bodies are wider to fit the e conversion cars.

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

I can make a 10 minute main (on a big outdoor track using lots of wide open throttle) with two 4600MaH shortys. I'd probably look for something at least 5000Mah's though.

Kaputttroniker

Hi there,

I am rebuilding my kit for the new season and got lots of helpful tips from this site. But I just canīt get these sway bars to move freely. These metal balls are not moving smooth in the the plastic holes. I can pinch them, flex them...whatever I do, it even seems to get worse. Are they supposed to be that stiff?

Happy new years everybody

dynamiteracer

They aren't supposed to be stiff. All that I ever had to do is squeeze them with some pliers a little bit. I suppose it could be possible to work them out of shape enough to render them useless. Try another set of links and squeeze them lightly while the aluminum ball is inside and turned to it proper working location.

truggynut

Hi, I am new to rc racing. I am wondering if there are any better shock for losi 8ight 3.0 out there than to one that come with the kit. Please include manufacture, springs, pistons ect. Thanks Truggynut. PS i am running a buggy.

Kaputttroniker

Thanks for your answer dynamiteracer. I did squeeze them, cut dents in them, drilled a bigger hole...and broke three of them : ) Luckily, I got tons of cheap spareparts ; ) Did I make a mistake by wanting them to move sidewards? Is it possible that they are supposed to turn outwards, so they stick out of the hole and can be turned back inside (canīt describe it any better than that)? At my forth effort, I put them on just the way they came out of the bag. Really stiff. It didnīt seem to influence the rear axle all that much. She shocks still work very well. Or do you think I should go and give it another try.

After hours of fixing, cleaning and changing parts, I had up give up for today because I canīt take the wheel hexes off the driveshafts in the front. The freaking screw on the inside is round (damaged).