wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Did you just get it off ebay ? I just sold mine there , if its mine I can tell you all about it ....

Hinch45

iTrader: (16)

Nope, sorry not yours.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Been awhile since I've run the 8ight, but in the nitro cars I seem to remember you could access diffs by removing the case screws and unhooking sway bar. For the front you might have had to remove the screws holding front bumper also. I don't think it's any different for the electric cars. I now have two 8ight E 3.0's sitting here. Will verify once I get to playing with diffs.

clarkie_ni

Front is easiest. Remove forward two under screws releasing the bumper. Lossen sway bar drop link screw, lossen as flip round the sway bar tabs that hold the bar to the front gearbox. Remove forward hinge pin holder, remove upper gear box screws. Lift out diff.

Rear is the same except you got to remove the 4 under screws and at least lossen the 2 screws for the chassis rear brace. For this is almost easier to remove the whole rear clip.

Centre worst to remove easily. Remove diff top plate with the slash guard attached etc. and remove four chassis screws for the brake bulkheads. Whole centre will come out making sure you don't loose the drive shafts!

pizza

iTrader: (6)

What is the difference between tapered splits and regular splits? I accidentally ordered the tapered instead of regular. How big a difference is there

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

You don't have to take the clip off OR remove the chassis brace screws to get to the rear diff. Rear can be removed by just loosening the two most rearward diff mount screws beneath the chassis. Remove the two bolts from inner hinge pin mount and remove the two bolts from upper part of diff case. Remove hinge pin mount being careful not to lose your inserts. Then remove rear diff case and voila! Works very much like the front except the front has diff case screws on the bottom rather than using the screws from the nine pin brace. I believe you can remove the front diff case without taking the brace off. You'll have to unhook your sway bar also to do front or rear diffs, but I don't remove the set screws. Just pop them out of the plastic connectors and push back in when you're done.

Center diff can be removed by loosening the screws beneath the front diff mount and removing two front diff mount screws from top brace. Then just slide the mount forward over the front center drive shaft and you can lift the diff out.

stanson

Guys I got a quick question. When I drop my buggy from like 35cm (14 inches) it slams the chassis onto the ground. I recently changed shocks oil to 37.5/32.5wt. Is this OK or should replace to heavier fluids?

I will run a big track with some high jumps this weekend and on sunday it will become blue groove...

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

What is your ride height? And are your springs old?

stanson

Springs are new, after 1 weekend. Ride height is 28/29.

The thing is iImay have messed with oil weights as iIalways used associated oils and now didnt have any so i used oil converter for cst pelikan oils... now dont know if its normal it bottoms out that way as i didnt check it before on asso oils...

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

My car will slap the chassis from 14" with a good set up on it . On the track at speed the dampening will be more effective because of the higher piston speeds. Try it and see what you get , with the idea you may have to change. But you wont know until your on the track .

janisdaubergs

how does one know, that springs should be changed?

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Yes, it's normal. Your chassis is going to slap when dropped from that height. It's normal. Oil weight only changes the speed with which the pistons move, not the distance they travel, any difference you might have made would be minimal. Drake base outdoor setup actually uses 37.5 up front and 30 in rear so you're a little thicker. You're trying to set the car up to handle on the track, not keep the chassis from slapping.

Janisdaubergs, once a year or so is what I was always told.

DiaRh34

iTrader: (-1)

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LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

Would someone please post a few pictures of their battery forward mod? Thanks!

buster8787

Sorry, no pics but its easy. Pop off the ESC and the battery tray. Move the tray forward until 2 screws line up and retape the ESC to the back. The car will run a bit nose heavy over jumps. I would recommend cutting and retapping atleast one new hole. I cracked my battery tray without the third screw. Also you will have to clear the spur gear and shave a bit with a dremmel. Took me about 45 mins.

I found that it helped a lot over smaller bumps/jumps because it keeps the nose down. Big jumps you have to use a bit of care to keep the nose up.