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Old 09-04-2013, 07:26 AM
  #466  
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My chassis is built, just have to assemble shocks sometime today. Build has gone very smooth, everything is tight and really nice finish on the parts. Can't wait to see how it drives next week!
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:55 AM
  #467  
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[QUOTE
Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!
Did I mention all the different screws?
QUOTE]

Metric threads are finer than SAE. Fine threads should not be used in soft material!!
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:12 AM
  #468  
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Originally Posted by big chris
Built my car and drove it today. A few things I will throw out there as questions or observations.

Why can't it have all metric hardware? I had to use about 11/12 different hex/nut drivers of both SAE and Metric varieties. Yuck!

I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.

Did I mention all the different screws?

The buggy did do well on our blown out outdoor track tonight box stock. Jumped and turned out of the box.. Isn't that the major things a guy could ask for?

This is the first car I have bought in a while that I had to buy nothing (extra) for to get it to drive well aside from a great servo and electronics. Very good job TLR.
Some of this car still comes over from our heritage 8ight line and that was standard at the time. We cannot convert to metric in the middle of a line, sorry for that.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:25 AM
  #469  
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^^^^

so what you are saying is you are thinking about changing it in the future
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:53 AM
  #470  
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Originally Posted by s.amadorJR
^^^^

so what you are saying is you are thinking about changing it in the future
What I am saying is that should we make an entirely new from the ground up platform at some point in the very distant future, it would likely have metric as all of our vehicles use metric today that are new platforms.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:59 AM
  #471  
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Originally Posted by s.amadorJR
^^^^

so what you are saying is you are thinking about changing it in the future
He is saying the will have to scrap the 8ight line and start over with a clean sheet of paper like the 22 before they convert the car over to metric. As long as they are basing the car off the 8ight it will continue to have std hardware.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:02 PM
  #472  
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Originally Posted by big chris
Built my car and drove it today. A few things I will throw out there as questions or observations.



I had a very stiff front end using the kit oil and I felt that I built it wrong so I re-did the shocks with 37.5 from a big bottle and it was way different. I'm not sure the kit fluid(s) are the same as what's sold in the TLR bottles.
Who uses kit fluids, haven't done that since my RC10...lol
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:20 PM
  #473  
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Ok so when is the TLR "9INE" coming out???? Money in hand!!

Last edited by Potoczak; 09-04-2013 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:57 PM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Ok so when is the TLR "9INE" coming out???? Money is hand!!
Slow down now Hhahahha

Last edited by XXXDad; 09-04-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:23 PM
  #475  
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9INE would imply 9th scale though...

Has anyone ran the 5-5-5 diff oil setup from the kit? I went 5-5-3 from previous experience and figured it would be a good place to start.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:39 PM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by TY@TEAMTEKIN
9INE would imply 9th scale though...

Has anyone ran the 5-5-5 diff oil setup from the kit? I went 5-5-3 from previous experience and figured it would be a good place to start.
This car is a whole new beast...it would be good to start with the diff oils of 5/5/5 and go from there. Especially if you are going indoor. If you are going indoor though, I recommend going to 10 deg kick in front instead of 12 and the car will be money. ride height 27/25
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:04 PM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
This car is a whole new beast...it would be good to start with the diff oils of 5/5/5 and go from there. Especially if you are going indoor. If you are going indoor though, I recommend going to 10 deg kick in front instead of 12 and the car will be money. ride height 27/25
10 deg kick for outdoor and 12 deg for indoor? I would have thought the opposite.

I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?

One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:31 PM
  #478  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
10 deg kick for outdoor and 12 deg for indoor? I would have thought the opposite.

I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?

One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
He said 10 for indoor. Kit setup is 12 and that will be better outdoor.

7 center will give more drive and take away a bit of steering and can make the car a little more nervous but good for higher bite tracks as it will not unload to the front end as much.
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:36 PM
  #479  
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To get 10*, you would run the zero inserts on the front and rear plates correct?
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:37 PM
  #480  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
10 deg kick for outdoor and 12 deg for indoor? I would have thought the opposite.

I was going to go with 5-7-5 to start with and try it indoor and outdoor.
Ryan, what will I feel different with running 7 in the middle instead of 5 that you have found?

One more thing. I'm was going to start the front top shock location at 2. The manual shows the #2 position for the build but the standard setup sheet says #1. Just wondering if anyone caught that.
I was saying that 10 is for indoor, 12 for outdoor. 12 is a super easy to drive and great for rutted up outdoor tracks. This is easy to change and only requires 4 screws so you can try both.

As for diff oils, 5/7/5 would give you more 4wd effect than 5/5/5. Think of the center diff as your drive or your slipper, the lighter you go in the center, its like running a looser slipper.
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